JS Motorsport Fork Damper Mod

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Has anyone got some recent experience with this fork damper mod? The older threads found on this forum are just that... old.

Plus, I did not find any actual review-type descriptions offered, but rather more of a comparison of the theoretical differences with other mods.

I like the sound of the JS rationale but would like to hear some real world experience.
 
Not sure about the other mods, but I have Jim Schmidt’s Turcite bushes with my Lansdowne damper conversion and Ariete fork seals, and the action is really smooth - highly recommended! :)
 
The only mention Jimmy made of the damper rod 'valve' was careful hammering it to flaten more to get a better syringe like 'seal' in tube. lugwig mentioned similar by putting in a better fitting round 'washer' to act more as syringe plunger. Neither mentioned making it function as a better valve, just less fluid bypass so rod cap gap can dampen better.
 
Hi All & Gtiller,

I'm exactly in the same configuration as you Gtiller (Lansdowne dampers and Ariete fork seal) and about to install Jim's Turcite bushes but I wonder if other changes recommended by Jim need to be made in that context. What did you do about that?

Many thanks,

Laurent
 
@laurentdom I haven’t done anything else. My only complaint is I would like to see a better damping action when the forks top out, Jim’s other upgrades may help in that respect.

I did try the ‘covenant’ upgrade on another set of forks, and noticed no real difference - Jim’s upgrades seem based around the same ethos, but he has taken it several steps further.
 
There are no solutions to Commando Roadholders top out clank w/o increasing fork extension travel to cover stanchion holes, restricting fork extension by extended top bushes or collars, or extending damper rod enough to allow a spring or cushion on 'valve' top to soften the damper 'valve' striking under side of damper.
 
What of the compression damping difference that theoretically is the result of shutting off both of the lower damping tube ¼" orifices and leaving only a single ¹/16" orifice?
 
The 'Commando' fork on my Slimline Commando was leaking on one side, so Yves and I took it apart last week. Except changing the oil, I had neither done anything nor opened this fork since I bought the bike 5 years ago.

We were in for a surprise, two surprises actually.

The first one, quite obvious, was that the left stanchion was shorter than the right one by about 4cm. The rest of the fork appeared identical on both sides, including the springs. On my bike, the disc is mounted forward on the left, with an AP Racing calliper. I have never heard of anyone mounting different sizes stanchion in the same fork.
After consultation with several friends and 'Norton wise men' including Norman White and Andy Savage, we decided to replace the shorter left stanchion by a longer (ie. Commando) one (600mm).

At that point, what had been right in front of our eyes all the time struck us, those are NOT Commando forks: the pistons are shorter and made of alloy, they have a different shape, and four holes instead of two...those are MANX forks.
Twice 150ml of SAE20 fork oil later, on the road, the bike felt precise and very smooth on the Belgian potholes. Flying Carpet grade, in fact.

There is a real difference 'before' and 'after', I don't think the stanchions lengths was much the issue, rather probably the oil was too thin before and the bushes were past their prime.

The only small negative point, but it could be subjective, is that I think the fork twists slightly to the right upon braking, which it didn't do before. However, after 50 odd miles, this feeling had mostly gone away. So perhaps the yokes simply had to settle in with the new stanchion...
 
@Jagbruno I used Manx stanchions and dampers on my Special

The stanchions are 20 1/2 inches long instead of the Commando ones which are 23 inches long - quite a difference!
 
@Jagbruno I used Manx stanchions and dampers on my Special

The stanchions are 20 1/2 inches long instead of the Commando ones which are 23 inches long - quite a difference!
I know about the theoretical stanchion length difference, however my bike is a Slimline bitza with 18" wheels, extended box section swingarm and 320mm oleo-pneumatic Fournales shock absorbers...so what matters is its global 'attitude'. It works, that is all I can say.
 
Yes, Stephen, that's the mod I am talking about. Is there anyone out there with experience riding on forks with that mod?
 
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Jimmy has not done much to the damper rod 'valve' but make it wider for more a sealed plunger pump. lugwig said he did similar, replaced with round washer to make said 'valve' more like a syringe plunger so even less a 'valve'. JMS Jimmy's dampening improvements are the tighter rod/cap gap and smaller hole in damper bottom. The slit Trulite bushes fit tighter with nil friction so takes the slight slack rattle out of forks in the unloaded state between bounces.

Roadholders with just tighter rod/cap gap and smaller damper tube holes for dampening restrictions are my favorite over various moderns on and off road, but JMS items do not solve top out clank, which has nothing to do with dampening/valving. Only restoring early Roadholders last instant of motion hydraulic hole sealing to incomprehensibility soft silent rebound can solve Commando clunker forks. Could try a 'valve' spring/cushion as a damper cap stop, after measuring for slightly long damper rod.

Least thee forget, Original Roadholders were big part of what made Nortons Unapproachable - till politics and finances short cut Commando forks, which are not really Roadholders, any more than plastic Corvette body on VW chassis is a Stingray.
 
The top out "clank" is eliminated by adding the aluminum sleeves - but the sleeves alone are not enough. You must also plug the 1/8" holes at the bottom of the stanchion tubes just above the lower fork bushings. 6-32 x 1/8" long set screws are provided with the aluminum sleeves to plug the holes (you have to thread the holes and loctite the set screws in place. This way there is a hydraulic bump stop at full extension and the "clunk" is gone. The aluminum sleeves are slit and expanded so they are a hand press fit into the top of the slider - this keeps them from falling down where you don't want them to be because you only want the sleeve to cover up the larger hole (3/8"?) in the stanchion when the forks are approaching full extension.

JS Motorsport Fork Damper Mod
 
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Ok that's similar to installing longer top bushes or the Convent collar that falls to bottom to be pushed up with fork compression. Only downside is less fork travel which should not matter on decent surfaces. I've closely observed forks/axle action on long held leans to see it kind of blur in fro/aft directions about 1/4",which i tracked to bush slack, even brand new stanchions and bushes tenderly blacksmithed to better roundness fit on stanchions. My impression was a non issue, UNLESS working up harsher til it harmonized with tire patch sounds, then could chirp out of traction. Your green bushes took out detectable wiggle slack but don't know if will tame the axle oscillations. Peels robust fork brace took the twisting sense away and stiffened enough to raise fork vibe frequency above tire patch sonic harmonics, which distinctly improved security pressing limits. I can't even approach testing any of this on a factory Commando or THE Hinging Hits.
 
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