Isolastics and swinging arm play next

So, now that my 72 mark II 850 is running really well, the remaining items are isolastics and swinging arm play.
I figure that I need to be prepared to do a lot of dismantling and would like to be prepared and preplan for whats to come.
1. Can I assume the front islolastic is easy without much effort or surprises?
2. Is there a step-by-step to replace the rear isolastic I can read?
3. Should I assume the bottom sub-frame swinging arm mounting holes are worn and what's the best approach of disassembly and replacement? Should I plan on new swinging arm bearings as well?
4. is there a step-by-step for the swinging arm repairs anywhere?
4.a Would it be less work to do the rear isolatic and rar swinging arm at the same time?
5. Where best to buy isolastics, and rear swinging arm repair parts?
6. What special Norton tools do I need for disassembly?
Cheers
JimN

I didn't think the Mk2 was around in 1973, my '73 850 is a Mk1, I always thought the Mk2 was 74 onwards.

Gidday JNash
A1. Yes . take off the bike for very easy servicing in a vice.

A2. yes. factory manuals, haynes manuals, maybe Mick hemmings, norton owners club maybe. There is no shortage.
L.A.B. may kindly offer better sources. and the archives here as well.

A3. depends on whether you have the cotter pin style or not. If non cotter pin and not modified by a previous owner, wear is most likely. or the pin is seized due to corrosion. This is also common.

bushes will have to be inspected for condition, but if a lot of miles on them, most likely replacement. examining swing arm side movement at the axle end before dismantling is a good method. With shockies off of course.
The best approach for repairs is to to do research before starting. have a plan of the sequence. refer to the above mentioned sources and there is a goldmine of info here in the archives. know the sequence of what you want to do before starting.

A4. Yes. the above sources especially the archives here. You are in the best place in the world for help and advice.
A 4a if both need attention, yes.

A5. especially for the rubbers, Andover Norton or genuine stuff bought from a AN dealers. beware stainless pins. they do not have the surface hardness.

A6. Not really special Norton tools. the rubbers can easily be centered buy use of existing drifts and pins you may have.

But factory tools are a option if you have none already. the factory manual has a list of factory tools avaialble.

You will need gear to get bushes out. an air chisel is an easy and quick way to get bushes out without risk to swing arm distortiong . use a bull nose air chisel and no damage will result. should take about 30 seconds to get each bush out. Again mate, check archives here.
hope this helps. remember there is a goldmine of info right here. Aussie bradley

Front isos are a piece of cake. Rear, not so but can be done without too much disassembly if you're not anal. http://www.members.shaw.ca/randell/isolastics.html may help. Swing arm spindle is easy, plenty of articles in the archives. You forgot the head steady, it's just as important. Lots of variations on that too. Have fun.

Don't forget to tell him to eat his collards and install swing arm collars. If you have not taken apart yet - besides getting a sense of the slackness at rear of cradle, while grabing the tire patch area to shove and pull - watch for the action at the front iso gaps for sense of what initiates frist hints of hinging/weavie/wobbles. The head steady definitely helps dampen that behavior. Norton frame quaity control may require you do some test fitting and altering till just slips in with the gaps set at factory. goggle < rear isolastic chanage on bike > if not finding the details here. Main rear boogerboo is finding pivot points and minimal damaging contacts for some intense levering and jacking then holding cradle levered up or rather jammed till barely can access iso. Keep bandaids handy.

jnash,

This might be helpful:
http://www.britbike.com/ubb/bin/ultimat ... 001786;p=0

Look for the post with Mike Taglieri's name. It's about 3/4 of the way down.

Pete

I replaced the ISO'S , swing arm bushes and the pivot pin when I rebuilt mine. The ISO'S because they needed it and the bushes just because. I also did the clamps on the swing arm. I used the veneer ISO's because of the ease of adjustment. I have a 71 and got the Veneer's that do not require any modification. (commando specialties and Old Britts) The only difficulty was getting the ISO's started into the frame tube. They do make a funnel tool for this.

My reasoning was IF I have already gone this far do it right and look for better handling and safety. The bike is solid and tracks like a dream.

Dennis