Isolastic gaiters, to use or not to use?

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nortonspeed

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Do they protect the isos from dirt and moisture entering or will they just keep the dirt and moisture to get worse? Your opinion please!
 
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37 years now without iso rubbers, they serve only to trap moisture inside the rubber, encouraging rust to form.

Plus, I like the ability to quickly do a visual check of those areas, without struggling with rubber to peel back.
 
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I will only boots on a full factory stock Commando,
but I shun them on my special and I ride very Gritty
conditions and agree just water and grinding paste collectors
that cause people pain trying to maintains isolastics in safe
comfortable trim.

hobot
 
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Many boots/protectors that are in place to keep water out tend to cause a greater problem by keeping water in. So I agree that leaving the boots off is actually better for longevity than keeping the boots on. However, that being said, I put on new boots when I when I renewed all the rubbers in the F/R isos because I prefer the oem look.
 
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Ya know, every spring I take the iso's apart, shims, washers and what not just remove the rust and moisture that has collected from the last season.
They get tight from rust and condesation and come back to spec when cleared of crap that evidently is accumulated and held by the booties that seem to be the stickler of the whole adjustment process anyhow.

I recently replaced the ISO rubbers, front and back, after noticing how muck vertical movement was allowed by the Dave Tayler type head steady. Realizing that I was never going to go mud bogging, I just decided to leave the boots off.

On a side note, after a high speed wobble episode, I pulled the DT headsteady and went back to stock. Not as smooth at low rpm but much more stable at high speed. I believe the stock improvement is do to fresh ISO's all around and good adjustment.
 

DogT

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Interesting!! I am considering the original spongey head steady for now on the 69 restoration. Not impressed with the DT job, but am impressed with the CNW setup, but not for nearly $400. Thanks for that input. Seems that LAB and hobot kinda po-po the headsteadys too.

Dave
69S
 
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DogT said:
Seems that LAB and hobot kinda po-po the headsteadys too.

Dave
69S

LAB likes things stock and hobot... well...

Aren't the 69's the worse of all the headsteadies?
 
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pvisseriii
On a side note, after a high speed wobble episode, I pulled the DT headsteady and went back to stock. Not as smooth at low rpm but much more stable at high speed. I believe the stock improvement is do to fresh ISO's all around and good adjustment
.

I tested with and w/o factory head steady and found its
about useless expect to reveal frame misalignment on
assembly and to transmit slight side/side engine imbalance vibes.
As head steady is in center between the isomounts it can
do nothing to control weave wobble into tank slap hinging.
Dave Taylor or anyone's head steady has nothing to do
with amount of engine motion up and down at front isolastic.

With a rear and a front link, a long rod head steady adds
a extra level of delicious polished smoothness you don't know
you are missing out on until you experience it.
Nothing for safe handling but sure nice for the long hauls.

The easiest link to add/create is the front one and that will
definitely be felt in improved control and more steady
as she goes sense. Most put them above the iso mount
in plain view but at least one [ Comstock? ] did a really
clever one under neath. Don't know if make any difference
in function.

i enjoy the low rpm throbs coming thru, pets my soul,
its the hi freq buzz I don't want any of.

hobot
 

DogT

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I have never experienced any of this tank slapping or wobble everyone talks about. Maybe I just drive to moderate. When do these things occur? When you are pushing the bike to the limit?

Dave
69S
 
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Dave nothing wrong about riding moderately to never experience
an upset Commando. Its the only way I ride my unlinked Combat
any more, excepting emergency thrown in my path.

A low tire or a flat can give ya hinged onset experience any time though.
I remind ya its well worth while to ride a few 100 yds on low air one
tire at a time, then both and get that sense imprinted.

What is important to have boots on are fork gaiters, but
can't seem to find quality that last more that 2 yr
before cracking apart in the folds.

Also like the clock boots as a finishing touch as well as
weather and grime protection.

hobot
 
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DogT said:
Interesting!! I am considering the original spongey head steady for now on the 69 restoration. Not impressed with the DT job, but am impressed with the CNW setup, but not for nearly $400. Thanks for that input. Seems that LAB and hobot kinda po-po the headsteadys too.

Dave
69S
Dave,
You may want to look into a Mark II headsteady. Much more robust. Bolt right on. Not hard to find. You just need the mount that goes on the head.
 
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My ISO rubbers are so jammed with grease that there's no room for moisture and grit can't get in :idea: . ISO adjustment so smooth I can move it with just my fingers! :D No wobbles and smooth as glass!
 
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I think the gaitors are like the cups under the tach and speedo. I like the looks and the theory, but after riding in a day full of rain I have to pull the cups down to let the fog evaporate so I can see inside.
 
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I've did my time in the rain and mud years ago. I figure I have an antique and treat it like one :wink: (most of the time). But I'm in California and rain isn't an issue! :lol:
 
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