Innovate afr guage

Has anyone used the Innovate MTX-L PLUS air/fuel ration meter? At $200 including shipping it is not a bad deal

Sounds a little high tech for the average Amal tuner but post a link I would like to look at it.

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ It would really help to look at some real numbers instead of by the seat of the pants method. From time to time I have found that replacing the stock 106 needle jet with a 107 gives an improvement . Also Mikunis. Would this work well during in town riding or just set it up for freeway?

Looks great to me, especially for the price.

However, you'd have to weld bossed into the downpipes wouldn't you?

Not impossible of course, but not what most DIYers would call convenient I guess.

seattle##gs said:

Has anyone used the Innovate MTX-L PLUS air/fuel ration meter? At $200 including shipping it is not a bad deal

Click to expand...

I got one last week after seeing it of a Commando Facebook group. As someone as tried it and it works with positive earth (i have Alton so can't change to negative) you just connect the positive and negative feeds to the unit correctly and its all self contained and insulated it works ok.
It is only temporarily fitted by taped to rev counter an wiring zip tied on. Its connected straight to battery with a fuse an switch so once I've done it can all be removed as my mate has may bikes to use it on also.
The sensor is welded to the middle for 6 inch length of pipe that just slides into end of peashooter and held with safety wire so no exhaust chrome pipe hurt and again its removable in minutes.

I've only had time for short test and it shows my bike is running off the scale rich even though it runs well. I also put dot of paint on twist grip to show throttle position. At three quarters trottle the reading drops to 19 but in top gear going up the steepest hill on the M1 motorway thats 90mph on the speedo and you run out of space and license quickly at that speed.

I have been working on engines of forty years but as many have said my plugs look fine even though the gauge says otherwise ( blame modern fuels). When i get more time i will do more testing but now i at least have a better idea of what may be happening and if its good or bad. Un like trying to guess if the bike is running better or worse than it did the last time you tried it before making a change to carbs.

will be seeing the results of the kit shortly, it will be used to test the Premiers. Hard part is positioning the sensors 24'' from the head outlet.

Please keep us posted on the results. I'm very interested to work with numbers instead of educated guesses. I have an extra set of pipes and a 110V tig welder so I'm halfway there.

I have not used the Innovate model, but have used a WEGO from Daytona Sensors

http://www.daytona-sensors.com/

and found it very useful. I like the data recording capability. I used it to sort out jetting for the 920 motor I ran on nitrous a couple years ago at Bonneville. It works as well for the nitrous mix as it does for just gas. It was nice to be able to hook it up to a laptop afterwards and look at the data for the run, vs RPM. I also used it to set up a big Mikuni on a Rotax single in a street bike. Nice to be able to see the A/F ratio displayed under various throttle positions while riding.

The only problem I noticed was some interference from running the wires too close to the external magneto coils. Re-wiring solved that.

I did have to weld the bungs onto the exhaust pipes, but in both cases they were just painted pipes, not chrome, so no big deal.

Ken

I bought a different brand wide band A/F ratio meter after a piston nipped up on a 450 Ducati single.
Thinking it was running lean at mid throttle. (which is where it nipped)
However the meter tells me I'm running rich and very rich at mid throttle.
Perhaps I had too much fuel washing oil away from the cylinder?
Lots more testing to do.
Interesting you were showing rich also and like my 450 your engine was running well??

Regards
Graeme

it might be that a heat range change of spark plug will be required such as NGK BP7ES to a BP8ES when jetting to what the meter says.

I bought a similar air/fuel gauge from AEM. I think it was around $250.

Like the Innovate one you have to weld a bung on the exhaust but it works well...although the scan rate of a video camera doesn't agree with the LED display so you can't review it ... here it is at Phillip Island


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pyNtBTZE5wc


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pyNtBTZE5wc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I can't seem to embed the video... can anyone help out?

Ref welding the sensor to a length of pipe and inserting it into the peashooter ...
Won't that restrict the flow and / or change flow / pressure waves in the exhaust?
And if so, won't that effect readings?

Fast Eddie said:

Ref welding the sensor to a length of pipe and inserting it into the peashooter ...
Won't that restrict the flow and / or change flow / pressure waves in the exhaust?
And if so, won't that effect readings?

Click to expand...

I have wondered about that but as i am not tuning with the hope of getting perfectly set up just improving what i have by having a better idea of what is happening not trying to guess if its better or worse with thos jet or needle setting than last time with the other.
The company does sell a clamp on adapter to temporarily fit the sensor to your exhaust tailpipe but with peashooter tapered end it won't fit. But it shows they think its possible to us that way.
The pipe only makes exit by 1.5mm narrower an about 70mm longer than other side i agree this is possibly effecting the tuning but it is not noticeable as yet in the 40mile round trip to work I've done (mostly motorway so can try at speed).
Of course a proper rolling road set up is the best way (as you have done Eddie) but its a question of finding one that knows about old stuff and Amals and having seen few bikes and cars on dyno being brave enough to watch your PJ on the rollers. After all it looks and sounds far worse than if your on it going down the road.
An with 7 bikes (only 1 mine but a friend seems to collect them an get me to rebuild rhem) it an excuse for a new toy for the tool box an you can never have to many tools can you

The bung needs to be fitted in the header pipe, not right back in the silencer. It needs to be heated by the exhaust gases and it would run too cool if it's too far from the exhaust valve.

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Motorsports :: Accessories & Replacement Parts :: Universal Accessories :: Exhaust Clamp - P/N: 3728

Exhaust Clamp - P/N: 3728 - #3728
Exhaust Clamp - P/N: 3728 Patent-pending, Venturi-effect, tapped exhaust clamp for obtaining accurate lambda measurements in non-cat autos or other engines.
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Weight 1.00 lbs
Price: $83.00



Taken from their website (best my limited IT skills can do) but they say it will work and its not cheap for what it does.
You may be right but the makers say this is to put sensor at end of pipe so i figured it would be ok. As i said its just a temporary tune up aid am not leaving it on for thousands of miles an some of other machines have spare exhaust pipes which i may weld bugs in as unlike mine they chrome has "patina" shall we say.

I use a Koso narrow band on my commando I'm sure the instructions said to weld it within 8" of the head to work properly,but I can't put my hands on them at the moment

I have the LM2 and use a tail pipe sniffer, not as accurate apparently, I reckon it works really well, easily see the difference between a single number jet change, (mikuni single), tells you what direction you are heading, I don't think I would bother pissing around now with out it

what jetting did you end up with on your single mikuni?

I have read the supplied instructions again just now twice to make sure i had not miss read them or misunderstood them.
Weld bung "AT LEAST 24 INCHES DOWNSTEAM OF EXHAUST PORT OUTLET OR 24 INCHES AFTER TURBOCHARGER "
There is other information on fitting and care of the BOSCH sensors in built heating element. At the back is a list of error codes the gauge will show and one is for overheating or overcooling of the sensor. So with this particular product it seems to me at least for now the way i and some others are using it is ok. Other makers system may of course be different so it is in the user's interest to check. As i said i got this product after asking owners (Facebook group) that already had and used it.

baz said:

I use a Koso narrow band on my commando I'm sure the instructions said to weld it within 8" of the head to work properly,but I can't put my hands on them at the moment

Click to expand...

Just read instructions it says fit the sensor 20cm from the head , cheers