Inexpensive primary chain lock

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eskasteve

eskasteve

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For those of you looking for a way to lock your primary chain for clutch or rotor nut removal I've used an inexpensive lock tool that I purchased from J&P cycle. Part number J&P Part: 911-640. $20 plus shipping. I bought it years ago for my HD touring bike and have used it successfully on my Norton.


Inexpensive primary chain lock
 
eskasteve said:
For those of you looking for a way to lock your primary chain for clutch or rotor nut removal I've used an inexpensive lock tool that I purchased from J&P cycle. Part number J&P Part: 911-640. $20 plus shipping. I bought it years ago for my HD touring bike and have used it successfully on my Norton.


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Does that wedge between the chain and sprocket? I used to use a rag to do that with the final drive chain but then someone at an INOA rally said they thought that would stretch the chain at that point and it seemed like a reasonable idea.
 
Looks good , Teflon or plastic perhaps. I've used a handy chunk of softwood with a tapered cut a few times. A heavy rag may work too but might get slurped into the sprocket and be tough to remove ?
 
Torontonian said:
Looks good , Teflon or plastic perhaps. I've used a handy chunk of softwood with a tapered cut a few times. A heavy rag may work too but might get slurped into the sprocket and be tough to remove ?
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I've used soft wood, leather, and rags in the past. When I worked at a Harley dealer I saw the mechanics using these. Most had used the make shift items that most of us have used until they discovered these stepped hard nylon chunks. They are what Harley recommended that their mechanics use.
 
ewgoforth said:
Does that wedge between the chain and sprocket? I used to use a rag to do that with the final drive chain but then someone at an INOA rally said they thought that would stretch the chain at that point and it seemed like a reasonable idea.
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The smooth part rests on the chain and the stepped ridges interface with the sprocket teeth. Since it is the recommended method for the HD factory trained mechanics I'm guessing that stretching is not really an issue. Primary chains are pretty tough cookies.
 
I don’t believe chains stretch. I think they wear and wear unevenly but to stretch a chain, at least according to my understanding of the word stretch I don’t believe happens on a motorcycle.
Of course I have undertaken a PhD in chain stretch physics therefore know of what I say or not maybe, just sayin’
 
If you are concerned about stretch, couldn't you use 2 of them (one on each sprocket) to split the force in half?
I personally don't think you would stretch the chain either way.
 
XTINCT said:
If you are concerned about stretch, couldn't you use 2 of them (one on each sprocket) to split the force in half?
I personally don't think you would stretch the chain either way.
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Unless the sprockets are the same size I don't think the force would be split in half more like proportional to the size of the sprocket. :rolleyes:
 
oldbeezer said:
Unless the sprockets are the same size I don't think the force would be split in half more like proportional to the size of the sprocket. :rolleyes:
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Well, nit-pick me to death!! I will concede that you are correct. I didn't do the math. I had that coming. I guess words must be chosen carefully here. All in good fun. I can take it. :)
 
Steves said:
I don’t believe chains stretch. I think they wear and wear unevenly but to stretch a chain, at least according to my understanding of the word stretch I don’t believe happens on a motorcycle.
Of course I have undertaken a PhD in chain stretch physics therefore know of what I say or not maybe, just sayin’
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You're right chains don't genetslly stretch. The holes wear causing the elongation. I just wonder jamming something in between the chain and sprocket could damage the chain.
 
I'm not saying that this would cause any harm, but it does put a great deal of stress on the bearings and shafts too.
 
The stress on the bearing and shafts would be the same as if you put the transmission in gear, stepped on the brake, and undid one of the lock nuts.
I use a piece of wooden doweling. It fits nicely in the teeth on the engine sprocket, and deforms nicely as the links munch into it. No hard contact points, lots of surface area. Works well. Costs nothing. Easy to replace.

Stephen Hill
 
eskasteve said:
For those of you looking for a way to lock your primary chain for clutch or rotor nut removal I've used an inexpensive lock tool that I purchased from J&P cycle. Part number J&P Part: 911-640. $20 plus shipping. I bought it years ago for my HD touring bike and have used it successfully on my Norton.


View attachment 4847
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Personally I would put that $20 towards a battery or air impact driver (rattle gun). Zero locking required, and can be used for other things too. I removed my clutch and crank nuts the other day with mine while I was just holding them.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
cliffa said:
Personally I would put that $20 towards a battery or air impact driver (rattle gun). Zero locking required, and can be used for other things too. I removed my clutch and crank nuts the other day with mine while I was just holding them.

Cheers,

cliffa.
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ya still gotta get em back on with the correct torque. I have had pro mechanics they could get the correct torque with a "rattle gun":rolleyes:
 
I have one of these chain locks and use it all the time. I used it on my Sportster to torque the rotor nut to the recommended 250 ft/lbs, so they are definitely strong.
 
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