Ignition Switch - New Commando Owner

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Only had my 71' Commando, my first, a few weeks now.

Last owner said he always kept his key in ignition. I didn't think much of the comment at the time.
Then lo and behold, after my first ride to work, where i take key with me, upon leaving work i couldn't get the engine light to stay on with key in. Kick starting got me know where without light on. With some troubleshooting figured out by jiggling key or pushing in further light would come on, after 10min finally got it to stay on and ride home. Back at home tried key again and really not able to keep engine light on anymore so I removed and ordered new ignition switch.

So is this a common point of failure and why i read many just leave key in ignition? If so if anyone has a found a nice toggle switch part that fits into the adapter thats attached to the air filter, i'd like to see it and the wiring configuration to achieve that would be helpful.

Thanks!
 
WhiteRockNorton said:
So is this a common point of failure

Considering the switch could be anything up to 45 years old then these things can happen-occasionally.The 'switch' and 'lock/key' components are basically separate, but the fault is likely to be within the actual switch section.


WhiteRockNorton said:
and why i read many just leave key in ignition?

I wouldn't recommend you do that.

If you get stuck again, all you need to do to get going is connect white to brown/blue at the back of the switch for "ignition" and add the brown/green (and blue/yellow if applicable) for "ignition and lights".
 
FWIW

If you find that the switch is faulty (as Les said it might be as old as 45yrs) I would just replace it with a new one. I would go over every inch of wire and every connection and replace anything that is suspect. I would also clean all the handlebar switches because the ignition systems electrics run through some of them. This should accomplish two things, you know you wiring is in good shape and you become familiar with your system in case another gremlin attacks.

Pete
 
Thanks for replies, one of nicest thing about this bike is the wiring harness and connectors are all brand new. Not sure of control cables but the controls appear close to original being a bit weathered but functional. Looked on few sites like Andover btw and not seeing controls in stock anywhere. I did order a new Lucas ign switch/key though sounds like i could have just got a new switch instead.
 
I found that when I replaced the boot for the switch, it was a bit fiddly to get on correctly and the first time it resulted in one of the connectors having come off slightly and the ignition would short off. You should check to see that they are firmly on the posts.

Also, you might want to read this about the switch itself, Yours may be could have been repaired - http://www.nocnsw.org.au/technical/rebuild-lucas-ignition-switchtobetterthannew
 
I had similar problems with mine recently. I just took it apart, scraped the contacts with a pocket knife, stretched the springs slightly to increase the pressure on the contacts, and reassembled it with dielectric grease. It's working great. You can try it, you don't have much to lose, or just change it. I did this with a previous switch and got another 20,000 miles out of it. Eventually it died.
 
I've got the early 2 position one, on and off. I pulled mine apart, had to drill out the brass rivets, cleaned it all up, new de-ox and put it back together with small machine screws. Been fine since.
 
Dave, when you switch off the ignition is everything off?
On my 70 Commando the lights stay on and I have
to put them out with the light switch on the headlamp.
Think I wired something wrong?
 
rivera said:
On my 70 Commando the lights stay on and I have
to put them out with the light switch on the headlamp.
Think I wired something wrong?

If you have a two position (ON-OFF) master switch, that is correct for pre-'71 models. You should also find that the horn still functions with the master switch in the 'OFF"' position (see pre-'71 wiring diagram).
 
rivera said:
Dave, when you switch off the ignition is everything off?
On my 70 Commando the lights stay on and I have
to put them out with the light switch on the headlamp.
Think I wired something wrong?

It appears from the wiring diagrams that pre-71 models only switch ignition with the key. Headlamp switch is always powered.
 
About the only thing the early ignition switch operates is the ignition and the brake light I think. That's why when I'm not riding for a while, I remove the fuse by the battery.
 
L.A.B. said:
rivera said:
On my 70 Commando the lights stay on and I have
to put them out with the light switch on the headlamp.
Think I wired something wrong?

If you have a two position (ON-OFF) master switch, that is correct for pre-'71 models. You should also find that the horn still functions with the master switch in the 'OFF"' position (see pre-'71 wiring diagram).

On my 69 with the wypac h/bar switch nothing operates without the ignition on , flash function only works with the headlight switched on at the shel switch.

I have not touched much of the wiring so don't really know what the PO has changed but should the flash function work with the shell switch off even as it is connected to the other side of the ammeter?

Jimmy

I have looked at the WD and can see that the horn should function with IS off.
 
auldblue said:
On my 69 with the wypac h/bar switch nothing operates without the ignition on , flash function only works with the headlight switched on at the shel switch.

I have not touched much of the wiring so don't really know what the PO has changed but should the flash function work with the shell switch off even as it is connected to the other side of the ammeter?

According to the pre-'71 diagram, the headlamp flasher is fed from the unswitched side by a white [W] wire running from a connection between the ammeter and the ignition switch, however, it's possible somebody has connected that particular white to the switched (ignition) white instead Edit: or it sounds like it could have been connected to one of the lighting switch terminals??

If the main lights don't work either without the ignition switch on, then the lighting feed white/brown [WN] must also be connected on the switched side (of the ignition switch).
As long as you don't need 'parking lights' then there's no actual need to have the lights operate independently of the master switch.
 
According to the pre-'71 diagram, the headlamp flasher is fed from the unswitched side by a white [W] wire running from a connection between the ammeter and the ignition switch, however, it's possible somebody has connected that particular white to the switched (ignition) white instead?

If the main lights don't work either without the ignition switch on, then the lighting feed white/brown [WN] must also be connected on the switched side (of the ignition switch).
As long as you don't need 'parking lights' then there's no actual need to have the lights operate independently of the master switch.

It must have had the wiring changed at some point which can come back to bite at a later date, but in the meantime I'm going to leave well enough alone.

Cheers for that les .

Jg
 
L.A.B. said:
If you have a two position (ON-OFF) master switch, that is correct for pre-'71 models. You should also find that the horn still functions with the master switch in the 'OFF"' position (see pre-'71 wiring diagram).

Thats correct. Horn and lights work with the key in OFF position.

I just helped a friend with his 69 Fastback, the PO had made his own wiring loom with two colours:
blue and red for every wire... :cry:

We bought a new period correct harness from Andover Norton and installed it.
When I switch off the key on his bike everything is off, also lights and horn.
A better solution in my eyes.

In Germany motorbikes are supposed to ride with lights on also at daylight.
I often forgot to turn off the lights during daytime after a ride.
 
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