I have a couple 73 850 Commandos

aslink · Aug 29, 2016

I have a couple 850's I'll be working on and thought I'd post all my questions here.

First question is about Dunstall mufflers. One 850 belonged to my step father which he purchased a set of Dunstalls right after he purchased it in 73. So I pretty much grew up with than sound and really want to get a set for the second 850. I looked on eBay and saw one that needed to much work for the price. I was wondering if anyone on this site had a set they no longer wanted. Runner up option is does anyone here have experience with new red cap Dunstalls?

lutewizzard · Aug 30, 2016

I have had the patented Dunstall Decibel Silencers on my Dunstall 810 in the seventies. I found them to be extremely fragile. I have no experience with redcaps, using peashooters ever since my Dunstalls started getting rid of their internals!

Danno · Aug 30, 2016

I have some Emgo Dunstall repops in fair shape I would sell. They are definitely not fragile like the originals.

L.E.N. · Aug 30, 2016

I've got a pair of original "long dongs" as hobot would call them on my bike. I haven't noticed them being fragile, still intact, shiny and no rust. But I live in NorCal where the humidity is low, so perhaps that's why. Not for sale as I like them.
Lance

Interbak · Aug 30, 2016

I've got a couple sets around, a little rough but certainly serviceable, and cheap! PM me!
Where are you located?

Brian

MikeM · Aug 30, 2016

I have the real deal and wont give them up.
Been on the bike for most likely about 40 years. Not so much fragile I think.

aslink · Aug 31, 2016

Thanks for all the feed back. I'm not interested in the Emgo's they do not sound like original Dunstalls but thanks. I pm'ed Brian.

On to my next question.

One of them recently lost seal on the front brake. I have a rebuild kit on order. Are there any tips on rebuilding a front brake master cylinder/lever?

aslink · Sep 12, 2016

Well I have Dunstalls on the way in the mail. Yippee, thank you Brian.

The front brake rebuild went well except for bleeding the brake. I went through the steps and its still very soft as compared to the other.

After finally getting the blue norton up and running it seems I now get to tweak the main jets. From the sea level in the Bay Area, CA to the 4,800 of Bozeman, MT it seems air mixture is an issue.

I'll check back after changing the main jets.

Side note installing the Al Miles valves seemed to go well. I'll check back on those too.

gtsun · Sep 13, 2016

The trick with bleeding those type is to pull the lever all the way and zip tie, wire or tape it that way to the grip & leave it over night.. For some reason the tiny air bubbles will not go away any other way.. You should get good pressure after that... Good luck. Also toss the stock rubber hose and get a good stainless one and if your disclosed is still chromed have it need blasted to get that stupid slippery stuff off...

aslink · Sep 15, 2016

Thanks for the tip I'll try it and get back to you.

This bike already has a stainless line on it. So I'm good there. The bike that the front brakes work great on still has the rubber line, funny stuff I tell you.

As far as the rest of the info I didn't quite understand, expand or clarify?

Thanks,

Ken

Danno · Sep 15, 2016

aslink said:
Thanks for the tip I'll try it and get back to you.

This bike already has a stainless line on it. So I'm good there. The bike that the front brakes work great on still has the rubber line, funny stuff I tell you.

As far as the rest of the info I didn't quite understand, expand or clarify?

Thanks,

Ken

Probably a phone post with stupid spell=check.

I think what he meant to say is if your rotor (disc) is still chrome-plated, have it bead blasted to remove the chrome and expose the cast iron underneath for better braking performance. Requires painting the center section.

baz · Sep 16, 2016

Danno said:
aslink said:

Thanks for the tip I'll try it and get back to you.

This bike already has a stainless line on it. So I'm good there. The bike that the front brakes work great on still has the rubber line, funny stuff I tell you.

As far as the rest of the info I didn't quite understand, expand or clarify?

Thanks,

Ken

Click to expand...

Probably a phone post with stupid spell=check.

I think what he meant to say is if your rotor (disc) is still chrome-plated, have it bead blasted to remove the chrome and expose the cast iron underneath for better braking performance. Requires painting the center section.

Bead blast chrome off!!!!! Good luck with that one!!!!!

Deets55 · Sep 16, 2016

Have you tried to reverse bleed the system. Empty the master cylinder and force the new brake fluid up from the caliper using a syringe? If you have a second set of hands have some tap on the caliper with a rubber my to break up the air pockets, and keep an eye on the master cylinder so it doesn't overfill and make a mess.

Pete

maylar · Sep 16, 2016

Besides bleeding from the bottom up as Deets suggests, do it with the bike on the side stand and the handlebars at left lock. Elevating the MC like this can really help getting that bubble out of the MC where it connects to the hose.

cjandme · Sep 17, 2016

gtsun said:
.............. and if your disclosed is still chromed have it need blasted to get that stupid slippery stuff off...

I believe it is called Blanchard grinding and it will remove any chrome that is still on there from the factory and it will true up your old rotor. He also will drill it if you like. garyhollowich@charter.net

Mr. Rick · Sep 17, 2016

The Guzzi fellows, led by canuck750, have been getting very good results from this fellow, with their disc issues:
http://www.truedisk.net/

I have a couple 73 850 Commandos

Similar threads