Howard .

Matt Spencer

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Jul 25, 2010
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Howard .


Howard ' 8 ' Cultivator Engine .

http://www.howardregister.com/home.html

Howard .


they do , some may say did , a 600 single that looks fairly usefull , if youre into 1920s belt drive cycles .
 
A one day project once a machine tool/fabrication workshop is set up again (all in storage) is a Kubota triple diesel Bobber.
 
Flogged from http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/an ... ne-263059/ who flogged it from http://www.barnstormers.co.nz/466/pat-n ... on-update/

Says " fitted with a Howard rotary hoe v twin stationary engine. Not an uncommon engine for a period special (click here to see one that was built and ridden) however at 810cc and with the crankcases in cast iron as well as the cylinder heads and barrels they were not lightweights. As a slow revving engine (about 2500 rpm max) with bronze main bearings it wasn€™t going to be fast but if you wanted to dig your own path cross country then nothing would hold you back. "

Howard .


Oh Dear ; The Aluminum CrankCase is made from Cast Iron . :(

Howard .


Howard .


possably suitable for the salt lakes , for traction , in lieu of ballast . :? :twisted:
 
If you wanted to build a V-twin, the crankcases might be useful as a basis for a pattern ?
 
It should be pointed out that that is 810cc per cylinder.
And probably nearly makes 20 bhp....

Triumph make a nice modern DOHC 1600cc twin, with good BRAKES, not to mention all those other agricultural engine makers.
And that a flush of rotary hoes with wheels should not be encouraged ??
Those engines are HEAVY.
 
Looks very neat. Tell us more.
Do you have brass/bronze crankcases ?
 
Mark said:
does it run?
Click to expand...
Yes.

Rohan said:
Looks very neat. Tell us more.
Do you have brass/bronze crankcases ?
Click to expand...
It has cast iron crankcases. The motor is stock, rebuilt with new ball bearings, new 40 thou over pistons, new valves and guides.
It has Pazon electronic ignition & PVL coils to replace the magneto. It always starts first kick.
It has a Commando clutch & belt drive & a Lucas alternator from a Commando, a Tympanium AC converter/ voltage regulator.
Gearbox is stock 1928 BSA three speed. Front brake is BSA M20.
It's brass timing cover was too rough to save, I made that one from an old alloy barbecue plate.
Inlet manifold is home made & the carburetor is an Amal 276.
It is as comfortable to ride as any rigid frame girder fork bike.
It will cruise at 100/110 kph, but doesn't like going above that.
It is only the small petrol tank (with the oil tank in the front) and crankcase pressure that stops it being a great rally bike.
After last years All Brit, when it was first finished, it had a few oil leaks.
So we replaced the stock 3/16 ball & spring breather with a reed valve at the end of that tube above the primary cover.
I thought it had solved the problem as it was oil tight while riding around locally.
It wept a little oil from the lifter cover threads on the way to Newstead, but I was full throttle up the hills.
Keeping it under 3000rpm (100kph) on the ride to Maldon & back it remained oil tight, but 50 k into the run on Sunday it was leaking a lot of oil from the lifter covers even at 80kph, so I rode back to the rally site without completing the ride.
The bike went back to Melbourne on a trailer, and I rode my Commando home.
Tomorrow I'll start cleaning the burnt oil off the exhaust pipe, & increase the size of the breather hole into the tube.
Howard .
 
I have a Howard Eight v-twin engine and am very impressed with your bike. I have collected some Howard pics and info on my ''A V-Twin Obsession'' website. You can see my engine at the bottom of the Howard page here;
http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/howard.html and more Howard items here;
http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/vtwinnews3.html
http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/vtwinnews5.html
http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/vtwinnews6.html

Any help you could give me would be much appreciated... I will need circlips, an oil scraper piston ring, gaskets, new plugs and a few other bits. Can you tell me the sources to get spares please?

And I would also like to see an engine diagram if possible, as some parts may be modified or missing... can you help?

I live over in UK by the way, so mine is probably the one made in the UK Howard factory. .. maybe that's why the cam-cover and oil pump are cast iron instead of brass. ... can we calculate the date of manufacture from the engine number?

i have also added your bike to the site... hope you don't mind... here; http://www.diagnosis2012.co.uk/vtwinnews7.html

One more question... the engine paint... is it powder coating?

oh yes... final final question... where can i get a left hand thread crank-nut please?

thanks very much for any help you can give.
 
straydog2012 said:
oh yes... final final question... where can i get a left hand thread crank-nut please?

thanks very much for any help you can give.
Click to expand...

Any competent engineering workshop that has a screw cutting lathe will be able to make you one HTH
 
I know a bloke who made a set of cast iron crankcases to carry two cylinders, heads, rods and pistons from a DC3 aircraft. He also made his own nodular iron crank. Might be a better way to have a vasectomy ?
 
I had an A10 framed bitsa with a V twin engine with cams ground at 45* ish like that. It was a swapper between a couple of bikes I have no memory of at all.
England, some time in the 80's?

My memory is that the timing side was different. External oil pump with sight glass perhaps? When I striped the timing side down, the cams were in a shocking state - completely ripped up. Surprisingly it still ran. Anyway, that was the cue to move it on.
 
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