How to fasten the horn (2015)

I am restoring a 74 850 commando I cant seem to find a good picture or description in any manuals of how to locate the horn. I have looked at various forums that talk about spacers etc. I know where to mount it but the single bolt that goes through the bracket into the horn is too long. Is there a spacer or series of spacers and can you advise me on where I can view the correct positioning
thx Drummer99

Sounds like your bolt is not original (too long).
There are no spacers. Only a lock washer on the bolt that goes through the triangular mounting bracket.

mark thanks for your reply I found a good set of diagrams in the forum and I did utilize a lock waher which took up the difference In all of the diagrams that I saw there was not a lockwasher I also applied locktite
Thx
jack

Bolts sandwich fender mount, spacers, and horn bracket. This is how it looks (at least, what the fender allows you to see) from immediately behind the left side cover and over the chainguard.



This all hangs from the battery box.

Nathan

I generally mount the horn either to the Z plates or the front downtubes, it means you don't have to dismantle half the bike if it goes wrong, but perhaps more importantly it is more audible when removed from the bowels of the machine and this is after all the function of it.

Has anyone tried tuning up the horn adjuster while in hand? If dropping Norton I liked where Kenny Dreer placed dual horns.

Some people think its a pain to mount the horn where it is originally attached. If you elongate the 2 mounting 1/4" holes in the rear guard, and make up a captive nut for the 5/16 bolt then its a "piece of piss" to get at. All you need to do then is remove the rear wheel, remove the 5/16 bolt and the 2 1/4 "unf" nuts and rotate the guard down. The rest is easy enough.
Dereck

Yeah, I've never found the horn that hard to get at. The rear mudguard and wheel has to be removed though. But then I'm used to taking the carbs off to get at the air cleaner. Everything on this bike takes at least 2 hours, except starting it and I think Swooshdave has that one locked up.

The question was asked: "Has anyone tried tuning up the horn adjuster while in hand?"

The answer is yes, on the bench, I managed to get a non-working Lucas original horn to work nicely. Then I installed it on the bike. Tested it on the bike, worked fine. Reinstalled the rear fender, wheel, etc etc etc. Tried it when the bike was back together, and it no longer worked.
I will NEVER EVER buy, fix, or install another original POS Lucas horn on a Commando. They are too big and ugly, never mind unreliable. Buy something off a Jap bike, weighs one quarter as much, costs next to nothing, and makes twice as much noise. Forever.

Stephen Hill

The answer is yes, on the bench, I managed to get a non-working Lucas original horn to work nicely. Then I installed it on the bike. Tested it on the bike, worked fine. Reinstalled the rear fender, wheel, etc etc etc. Tried it when the bike was back together, and it no longer worked.
I will NEVER EVER buy, fix, or install another original POS Lucas horn on a Commando. They are too big and ugly, never mind unreliable. Buy something off a Jap bike, weighs one quarter as much, costs next to nothing, and makes twice as much noise. Forever.

Stephen Hill

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LOLLLLL>>>>>
Oh my that so depressingly funny to read Stevphen, wife asked what's up... as exactly the scope of subtle fool ya once then twice or more factors involved. I am able to do horns that had gotten loose or unconnected from the bottom up. Every move cramps or cuts but a time saver while turning the air blue. I just want to be a pilot and not stoop to level of detestable grimy mechanics. We agree Lucas horn is demon ballast weight, so plug that factoid into my attitude of mechanics keeping a no brainer promise to only order from the good book for plain Jane Trixie. BeepBeepBeepBeee under a bonnet.

You could install the horn the way the Norton guys at the factory did it, That is : Place a horn on a worktable, and build a motorcycle around it. :roll:

kerinorton said:

Some people think its a pain to mount the horn where it is originally attached. If you elongate the 2 mounting 1/4" holes in the rear guard, and make up a captive nut for the 5/16 bolt then its a "piece of piss" to get at. All you need to do then is remove the rear wheel, remove the 5/16 bolt and the 2 1/4 "unf" nuts and rotate the guard down. The rest is easy enough.
Dereck

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Hi Dereck, I just bought a 1969 S type, thanks for advice. Roddy Allan

Yes, It came in handy when I was riding with our late president Mark Mclennan. While riding through Te Awamutu, I heard a funny sound just as Mark passed me on his International. I justy presumed it was his bike. 1/2 way to Taumaranui, my bike stopped charging, so when we got to taumaranui, I attempted to find the problem. Didn't find it so Mark just said buy a spare battery. While looking though I saw this silvery look crap between the primary cover and the g/box. On closer inspection, I saw the horn had come loose and had been rubbing on the chain. A short while later, it was removed, wrapped in a plastic bag and stowed in my pannier. There was a picture of mee with the horn in my dirty hand, giving Mark the royal salute , in our newsletter. That year, I got the bent piston award for the most bike problems on the way to a rally. The old battery got me to Levin before it went flat. The charging was sorted once I got to Blenheim. A broken wire at a terminal. I had made the mistake of securing the alternator wire to the g/box frame with a cable tie. Best to let them float.

Don't we have fun. Wouldn't miss it for anything.

Happy riding.

Dereck