How low ?

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I want to lower my 1974 Commando .
My rear shocks is 310 mm long center to center .

Any have experience with shorter rear shocks ?
How short can I go before trouble with tire/rear fender ?
I have 18" rear Wheel .

Michael
 
Matt at CNW has made a lowered Cdo for women I've seen so hope he chimes in. There's ~4" between normal size rear tire and mudguard and shocks bottom after ~3" so if stiffer spring might get away with almost 2" shorter shocks. i've seen over loaded heavy pair on and 850 in city parade bounce-rub tire on mudgard hitting lumps at slow speed but nothing bad happened as only instants of rubbing and even I never load that much mass on mine. You will have to modify side and center stands to use too and be rather away of fouling on leaning turns. A significantly lowered Cdo will not be able to lean much. Might consider lower thinner seat and 17" wheel$ too. Have to think about the forks too not to look like a dis-tasteful chopper stance but forks are easy to lower - just slice section of spring out which ups the spring stiffness too. Fork bottom hydro stop is also easy to make work as designed.
 
needing said:
I run Ikon 7610-1277 which are 12" with the 18" rim and a cutout chain guard.
The Commando standard are Ikon 7610-1653 at 13" and I use them with the 19" rim and the 'nice' chain guard.

Is it possible with some Pictures ?

Michael
 
Michael,

I have lowered a few machines and have pushed the limits to what can be run, without to many compromises. Of course there will be some, so it will come down to what is important to you.

- 1" lowering. 310mm rear shock (or 320mm if over 190 lb rider), 1" shorter fork tubes (plus cut damper rods and springs). You can use the center stand and side stand can be used as is
- 2" lowering. 300mm rear shock, 2" shorter fork tubes (plus cut damper rods and springs). No center stand and you will have to make sure your side stand leans the bike over enough to be secure. Clearance rear fender and chain guard. I do the cuts on the fender to clear
- 3" lowering. 290mm rear shock, 3" shorter fork tubes (plus cut damper rods and springs). No center stand and modified side stand. Clearance rear fender and chain guard. I do the cuts on the fender to clear. With this kit you have to check your front fender to lower triple clamp clearance as well with fork fully compressed.

I run 19 front and 18 rears on the 1" and 2" kits. 17" rear on the 3" kit

1" is a nice amount to lower the machine as you will be comfortable on the machine if you are shorter in the legs but you really don't affect much as far as ground clearance and suspension travel. Passenger and gear ok but limited

2" kit gives it a great stance (if you like that look) but you will have to make sure you make all the clearance modifications and there is definitely a weight limit for the rider due to suspension bottoming out. If you weigh much more than 170/180 lbs you will be pushing it with this set up. Forget about a passenger or gear

3" very low and I would not recommend it unless you are a 110 lb girl (or guy). Unique look but not very practical.

Important to do both the front and rear when lowering. Just doing the rear will just sag the bike in the rear and not only will it affect the handling and how the machine feels, it will look awkward

Your weight is critical as you always have to consider suspension travel. Last thing you want to do is bottom out in the front and rear as you are riding.

For a few examples on looks go to the gallery on my site. 3" kit # 013, # 024 and # 037. 2" kit # 036 and # 077. 1" kit # 089, # 094 and # 101. There are more but this will give you an idea.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
My experience with my MK3 with stock suspension and 19" tires is that the stock foot peg rubbers already touch the ground in spirited riding on the road. Not a real problem, just a reminder that you probably don't want to lean over any further. I think I could easily lower it 1" without any problems in normal riding. Now that I'm "of a certain age", my 21 year old grandson is the one who is dragging parts on the ground, while I motor along at a more sedate pace. If your riding style is more about cruising than "scratching", you could probably live with even more lowering.

Ken
 
I am preparing a second MK3 for my wife (5'3" and 140lbs) and need info on this also. I have the Atlas 22" fork tubes and 12" shocks, already have 18" rims laced up front and rear, (had to chase around for 18" front spokes) and intend on using Lansdowne dampers. As far as I can tell, the Commando and Atlas use the same springs, do I use the original springs or get the progressive ones? (I'm prepared to rework the curve of the front guard and lower it onto the front wheel if it looks odd with the 18" wheel) I also intend to fit the 513-011 style seat cover from Brit Cycle. I was going to use the same stainless bars as on the first MK3 (Euro height) but because she is pretty short, may have to fit the U.S. style higher bars to allow her to sit up further on the bike. I expect it will be a bitch to get up onto the center stand and will lose some cornering clearance but we don't go boy racing. The info from Matt (CNW) was great. People put shit on MK3's but imagine her trying to kickstart the bloody thing......
 
Thanks Matt for all your information .

I think I will go for the 2" lowering .

If I shorten up the centerstand , will it then be useable ?

Michael
 
I once ran a 400x19 continental on my 750. After I did it up and took my wife for a ride. I heard a rubbing noise and found the centre of the tyre had rubbed on a bolt holding the guard on which was slightly too long. Stuffed the tyre. Found I had left the shocks on the lower setting. Even on the high setting, 2 up you could make that tyre rub on the guard itself [ prior to rebuild ].
Make your own decisions mate.
I stick with the 410x19 now. The 100-90"s are too small for the speedo accuracy.
Dereck
 
Egholt said:
Thanks Matt for all your information .

I think I will go for the 2" lowering .

If I shorten up the centerstand , will it then be useable ?

Michael

To shorten up the center stand is a bit tricky. You will know why when you start cutting into it as there are many angles and dimensions to consider. If you do get it cut and working, it can certainly be used. Typically, the first part to make contact when leaning to the left is the spring tab on the side stand. In other words, the side stand will be the part that will most likely make contact when riding aggressively.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
Per fender following 18" wheel arc might consider the off the shelf chrome, SS or alu one size fits all Brit Iron but for mounting holes. Just bringing a 19" mud guard close to the wheel will just emphasize the curves mis match so everyone will point a finger at ya giggling behind your back.
 
This is a timely thread for my wife and I as we will be bringing home a couple of basket case Nortons. I hope to make the 850 Mark III a good fit for her (around 5'-3") because of the e-start and LH shifting.

Matt, I've been looking at your website with great interest and appreciation for the work you are doing.
Regarding the 1" lowering option, do you recall what the seat height ended up being with the Corbin seat and standard rim sizes?
Or how the Corbin compares to the stock saddle for thickness?

Thank-you,

Peter
 
Alpenglo said:
This is a timely thread for my wife and I as we will be bringing home a couple of basket case Nortons. I hope to make the 850 Mark III a good fit for her (around 5'-3") because of the e-start and LH shifting.

Matt, I've been looking at your website with great interest and appreciation for the work you are doing.
Regarding the 1" lowering option, do you recall what the seat height ended up being with the Corbin seat and standard rim sizes?
Or how the Corbin compares to the stock saddle for thickness?

Thank-you,

Peter

For your wife, at 5'3'', I would recommend a 2" kit. I am sure she will want to be flat footed, or close to it and with some good riding boots, this should get her there.

I cant tell you the seat height when using std rim sizes as I never use those. With an 18" rear, and a 2" kit you are looking at about a 27" seat height (this with the 2" kit). The Corbin is good and bad in this case. Good, because its about 1.5-2" lower than stock. Bad because the foam is very rigid and its 11" wide. In other words, it forcing your legs out and some of that height gain can be lost.

What I do to change this is to modify a Corbin seat to make it narrower so that the legs can go straight down.

I have built half a dozen bikes for women (5'4' 'and shorter) and there is no question that they absolutely love the relatively light weight Commando and how it feels when they can have their feet on the ground and move it around like they want to.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

www.coloradonortonworks.com
 
Thank-you, for the great responses, Matt. When the time comes we'll be getting in touch with you for parts and assistance.

Peter
 
Peter,
Take a look on Norvil Motorcycles web site. They sell a lowered frame (2") which would be more expensive but less of a compromise with ground clearance etc.

Martyn.
 
CNW said:
Alpenglo said:
This is a timely thread for my wife and I as we will be bringing home a couple of basket case Nortons. I hope to make the 850 Mark III a good fit for her (around 5'-3") because of the e-start and LH shifting.

Matt, I've been looking at your website with great interest and appreciation for the work you are doing.
Regarding the 1" lowering option, do you recall what the seat height ended up being with the Corbin seat and standard rim sizes?
Or how the Corbin compares to the stock saddle for thickness?

Thank-you,

Peter

For your wife, at 5'3'', I would recommend a 2" kit. I am sure she will want to be flat footed, or close to it and with some good riding boots, this should get her there.

I cant tell you the seat height when using std rim sizes as I never use those. With an 18" rear, and a 2" kit you are looking at about a 27" seat height (this with the 2" kit). The Corbin is good and bad in this case. Good, because its about 1.5-2" lower than stock. Bad because the foam is very rigid and its 11" wide. In other words, it forcing your legs out and some of that height gain can be lost.

What I do to change this is to modify a Corbin seat to make it narrower so that the legs can go straight down.

I have built half a dozen bikes for women (5'4' 'and shorter) and there is no question that they absolutely love the relatively light weight Commando and how it feels when they can have their feet on the ground and move it around like they want to.

Matt / Colorado Norton Works

http://www.coloradonortonworks.com

Matt , Can you make me a narrow Corbin seat ?
Is there any Pictures Corbin wide VS narrow seat ?
Michael
 
I have now lowered the rear shocks by 2"
Will lower the front , shorten up the stansions .

Michael
 
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