holding a swing arm
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As far as I recall, these things are rather stubborn. Although the older ones are less reinforced, it is still awkward to get right.
You need a large flat surface (layout plate) lots of precision vee blocks, 1-2-3 blocks, a height gauge would be nice and shafts/spindles, all this just to get to see where you are at and where you have to go.
I think tweaking it back requires some imagination if you doing this in your garage with stuff you have laying around. These are the type of jobs where you end up buy a big tool, like a small hydraulic press, and never using it again, but I like having it around and i have used it again.
All this being said, I agree with the thought of looking for another swingarm.
You need a large flat surface (layout plate) lots of precision vee blocks, 1-2-3 blocks, a height gauge would be nice and shafts/spindles, all this just to get to see where you are at and where you have to go.
I think tweaking it back requires some imagination if you doing this in your garage with stuff you have laying around. These are the type of jobs where you end up buy a big tool, like a small hydraulic press, and never using it again, but I like having it around and i have used it again.
All this being said, I agree with the thought of looking for another swingarm.
gjr said:
They are not very stiff, you could probably just put it on the floor and jump on it to fix that, I used a 1/2 unc clamping kit to pull mine straight and it didnt need much force on the spanner, from memory one side of mine was about 5mm low at the end of the wheel adjustment slot.
Commando fames and associated parts will bend like shitte, regardless of the myths within this page. If you have the dollars go buy a new one. If you have a DIY fixation then keep talking....
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Chainblocks and trees are usefull , and discarded steel bars & planks . though the planks are wood - not steel .
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The swing arm can be distorted just by tack welding the chain guard mount on DS as we had a report of happening a few years ago. I'd make a robust fixture to mount a stout shaft though the spindle then shaft though the axle slots both to measure the out of line and then some room and leverage to over bend the legs so they spring back to good alinement. You may or may not be able to get the sprung spring shape back to normal though as
I sent a slightly bent [d/t rusted fused and lipped spindle extraction] swingarm to GT Enterprises who sent it back and still would not pass the spindle so bought an 850 gusseted one in the end and put collars on it.
I sent a slightly bent [d/t rusted fused and lipped spindle extraction] swingarm to GT Enterprises who sent it back and still would not pass the spindle so bought an 850 gusseted one in the end and put collars on it.
concours
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gjr said:
No problem, block it up with 2" tall wood blocks in the front, just BEHIND the pivot tube, clamp it down with wood cushions. An Acorn platen table is best, but a strong steel workbench or table will do. Block up the rear end LOW side only, and clamp it down with a wood cushion as well. Now pull down with a clamp on the high side, past level, until you yield the dimension. Slow and easy, check frequently. Lather, rinse, repeat. There is no structural concern, or safety concern as mentioned previously. The finished part will be as strong as it originally was. Take pics, share and good luck!
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