High tensile side stand bolt

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swooshdave

swooshdave

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Parts book (or better know as Old Britts) calls for a high tensile bolt for the side stand.

I assume this means Grade 8 and not the typical Grade 5.

Can I be safe with a Grade 8 in this application?
 
Grade 8 will bend less than grade 5. This hard working bolt don't break so much as wear and bend to get sloppy. Its got undue leverage on it. Must fit snug in bush or then grade won't matter. Humpf it hardly matter any way, they all give way.
Likely the best bolt and bush will still be sloppy d/t the frame bore worn too.

I don't know if an off the shelf bolt will fit. I order mine by part number.
Are you rebuilding this to new specs? On Ms Peel I sure am, just don't know
with what stand yet.

hobot
 
hobot said:
Are you rebuilding this to new specs? On Ms Peel I sure am, just don't know
with what stand yet.

hobot
Click to expand...

New bolt, new bushing, new side stand and old frame.
 
Grade 8 or aircraft grade bolts are much betterr than the standard bolts at the hardware store. But remember airplanes are built with redundancy. If two bolts will do then lets use 6. When we we built race cars the toughest bolts were from ARP.
 
Alrighty then, you're all set, except for maybe the last item listed.
So why you asking about bolt grade to acquire, if you already have what we all buy?
My 2 old frames kinda let the new bushes wobble in its bore.
I guess you'll be back if there's annoying slack after assembly.

Just curious if you have ridden a well fetterd Commando?

hobot
 
hobot said:
Just curious if you have ridden a well fetterd Commando?

hobot
Click to expand...

My Interstate wasn't bad. Really stock aside from a single Mukuni and some Dunstalls.
 
hobot said:
So why you asking about bolt grade to acquire, if you already have what we all buy?

hobot
Click to expand...

About to buy the bolt. $15 for a Norton one, I'm sure a good Grade 8 is less than that. Money saved will by beer. Cuz that's how I roll. :mrgreen:
 
7/16-20 X 2 1/4 Grade 8 from boltdepot is $1.08. Shipping will will be several times the cost so if you can source it locally you'll be better off. Otherwise consolidate with a pair of Grade 8's for the centerstand or some stainless bolts or machine screws for chassis components to offset the shipping cost.
 
Ron L said:
7/16-20 X 2 1/4 Grade 8 from boltdepot is $1.08. Shipping will will be several times the cost so if you can source it locally you'll be better off. Otherwise consolidate with a pair of Grade 8's for the centerstand or some stainless bolts or machine screws for chassis components to offset the shipping cost.
Click to expand...

I've got a local place here (I've mentioned it before) called Tacoma Screw. They have a huge selection and you can buy 10,000 pieces or one and they don't care. I'm headed there this morning and will report back.
 
This isn't a "fix to stock" solution, but when I measured mine I found that the bolt, the bushing and the sidestand all were worn. I got a replacement bolt, reamed the sidestand out and turned a bushing that was a close fit to both the bolt and the reamed sidestand. Way big improvement. I also saw that the sidestand and the frame mounting tab had worn so the side stand went way too far forward. Welded some estra stock on, ground/filed it to the proper shape - now i can reach the sidestand to raise it <g>...
 
ptourin's got the big picture concerning 4 decades old side stand mounts.
What I'd planned to do to factory '72 Trixie is use thread re-store epoxy or JBWeld and shove factory greased bush in there and see if it holds up before hassle to weld and re-bore with most the bike assembled as now.
A grease zerk bored into the bush enough to both trap it and feed some grease in would extend its next lifetime.

hobot
 
Go the parts. Not to dismiss the Factory parts but I thought I'd share the price difference.

Note that the bolt I got is a yellow zinc and that might bother some people. Obviously if it did I could find a regular zinc one.

43, 06-3089, Hex Nut, 7/16 x 20 Lock, Thin, Plated $.50 ($.07)
46, 06-2872, Bolt, 7/16 x 20 Side Stand (High Tensile) 16.01 ($.83)
45, 02-6494, Washer, Spring $.39 ($.33)
44, 06-3141, Washer, 7/16 Flat $.34 ($.10ea)

$17.52 vs. $1.43

The side stand locks nicely on the lug. There is a little bit of play between the bushing and the lug and there is a little bit of play between the bushing and the bolt. But that's to be expected. Since I won't be starting the bike on the side stand I'm not really worried. :mrgreen:

And as you expect... video...

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmEPHf1Gac0[/video]

I haven't figured out how to get the label off the side stand. It's pretty baked on there. I'm afraid anything I try will take the paint off too. Hopefully it's powdercoat.
 
I took my original broken bolt in and matched it to whatever bolt looked close at the Ace hardware store 5 years ago and it has held up fine. I also start the bike on the side stand all of the time.
 
britbike220 said:
I took my original broken bolt in and matched it to whatever bolt looked close at the Ace hardware store 5 years ago and it has held up fine. I also start the bike on the side stand all of the time.
Click to expand...

These proclaiments are always followed up at some point by, "My sidestand bolt broke..." :mrgreen:
 
britbike220 said:
Note I said "when I took my original broken bolt". It broke at a gas pump no damage except ego.
Click to expand...

Yeah, but how long did the original one last? :mrgreen:
 
It is important to be sure the spacer is long enough that when the bolt is tight, the stand pivots on the bush, and does not try to unscrew the bolt. Otherwise as the bolt loosens, the stand and the flat on the frame mount will wear and allow it to extend too far forward. DAMHIK.

I have taken to turning my own bushings as you often need to drill the opening slightly oversize due to wear. I have also found some stand/frame combinations where the factory spacer is too short. (Yeah, Ludwig, I took your advice and broke down and bought a lathe!)
 
Ron L said:
It is important to be sure the spacer is long enough that when the bolt is tight, the stand pivots on the bush, and does not try to unscrew the bolt. Otherwise as the bolt loosens, the stand and the flat on the frame mount will wear and allow it to extend too far forward. DAMHIK.
Click to expand...

If the bushing is too short and you tighten done the bolt, wouldn't the side stand not move?

Ron L said:
I have taken to turning my own bushings as you often need to drill the opening slightly oversize due to wear. I have also found some stand/frame combinations where the factory spacer is too short. (Yeah, Ludwig, I took your advice and broke down and bought a lathe!)
Click to expand...

A lathe would be great, if I had room.
 
If too tight stand still moves but stiffly, so you must back off to sloppy to use it practically which then accelerates the need to repair and modify.
Its a rather long side stand as they go and good leverage length to over bare on the joint. The taller a Commando is set up the more the lever works against pivot
as bike leans further on it.

hobot
 
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