Headsteady dimension

Hi all

Can anyone give me the dimension off the later headsteady with the spring mounting.

I'm after the length from the face that the spring bracket bolts to on the head steady to the middle of the centre mount bolt hole on the head steady.

Thanks
D

Just to clarify...

It is the dimension shown in the pic that I need. Surely someone has one sitting on a shelf.

Thanks again
D

= 1-1/8" , 28.575mm.

Thanks

Here is my version of the rod headsteady.

Thanks for the dimensions L.A.B.

Cheers

That should do the trick
A head steady is on the to do list after the Kubota alternator is done but will use these type bushes.

Time Warp said:

That should do the trick
A head steady is on the to do list after the Kubota alternator is done but will use these type bushes.

Click to expand...

As opposed the heim joints????

Feng Shui and the Harmonics.

As apposed to rose/heim or ball joints.

By using those metalastic bushes you are presuming all motion is up and down [ or in one plane ]. How are you going to isolate forwards backwards motion [ at right angles to the first ones ] without straining the metalastic bushes? They were designed to go in spring hangers [ torsional ], and twist. Just like the swing arm on the featherbed frame. You may be better to go with the design with the ball joints. Simpler
Dereck

Correct me if I'm wrong.... And I'm sure someone will :? But I thought the idea of using the rod/rose joint set up was so the rear end/wheel could be adjusted so it was perpendicular to the front and then locked there but still allowing the motor to move in the isolastics to dampen the vibes.

Obviously you get a bit more vibe as the top of the motor is "hard mounted" but at least it will stop all tilting of the rear wheel.

With the spring setup like the mk3 I have fitted then some of the weight is take off the front mount stopping the ISO sagging. When I to the old one out it was about 1/4" off.

D

There are 2 main schools of thot on what the function of radius rod links or swash plates are supposed to do and where to place them and which is most important. Old school original rod linkers only wanted to resist fork following road grooves that would wiggle riders going straight on commutes - and- hot shots wanting to suppress frame wind up spring backs in hard on it leans in non perfect wind/road conditions. New age school on this forum including comnoz think the links are to limit the isolastic gap shifting-touching so can set closer and/or to force frame in a bind so both tires vertical. Old school does not think links used to correct alignment faults. Ugh.

hobot camp says you should get stem and swing arm vertical in line 1st, enough to both assemble easy and track nice w/o any links or head steady [beware riding w/o head steady as can surprise Hinge w/o warning going straigh-ish] then rod link so they can be set in most slack-loose state while sitting still so only function when conflicting tire and wind loads occur at opposite ends. Peel's links had to be set neutral-slack or transmitted buzz in cycles or constantly depending on which link was set too long or short or left un-locked to adjust and bind on their own, ugh.

Original thinkers on linkage was not to correct any frame or assembly faults, only to tame the wandering ways of rubber baby buggy. If have not experienced horrors of Hinge onset after apexes while lightening up turning loads on increasing throttle then you will not need nor appreciate rod links anywhere. if not experiencing Hinged Horrors powering into> apexes then no need to stabilize beyond factory trampoline. If using rods to square up alignment you are missing out on what's possible in smooth secure thriller diller.