Discussion in 'Norton Commando Motorcycles (Classic)' started by B+Bogus, May 28, 2012.
Can anyone identify this?
Norvil (type) isolastic head steady.
Yes - it's certainly a similar design, but the execution is a bit different - it's evidently pretty old too!
Could be an original PR unit.
Yep, that kinda describes Les :^)
Yes - it's certainly a similar design, but the execution is a bit different - it's evidently pretty old too![/quote]
Looks like you've hit the nail on the head - I just found a very poor photocopy of the Factory Tuning manual here: http://www.motos-anglaises.com
and it looks pretty much identical - pity the photocopy isn't clearer.
The newer version (diferent part number) A-N part is very similar apart from the billet clamp
So now I'm out of excuses, and I can now make a start on the Proddy Racer build
A new thread beckons...
The clamp at the top of B+Bogus' headsteady looks like an original one, but the base plate of the body is much cruder than on my original Production Racer headsteady, and not to the drawing done by a certain PJW (whoever that may be........) on 18th June, 1969 and approved by a certain AHD, better known as Tony Denniss, original owner of Andover Norton's two-tone Fastback, I believe. It may have come from another batch where niceties like rounded corners were considered a waste of time.
My son Tim used the Peter Williams drawing as a basis for his CAD design of our headsteadies, the main modification being the width in order to make it fit production petrol tanks whilst retaining the two buffers in the body, a feature few of the aftermarket headsteadies have these days.
The 72 Interstate I am working on has a headsteady that looks very similar to the one pictured in the original post of this 10 year old thread. I wasn't able to access the links in this thread. I would also like to know where it came from, but my main question is:: Since it appears that this headsteady uses an isolastic type of mechanism, would the grounding wire attached to any of the fasteners on the side plates actually make contact with the head? Or is it isolated electrically by rubber as in the main isolastic mounts? Pictures of mine are included. When I measure the resistance between the ground wire shown in my picture and the surface of the head, I read 0.0 or 0.1 ohms. There shouldn't be any other paths to the frame from the head since I disconnected the clutch cable, but I am not certain of this. Any help would be appreciated. Also, left side plate of headsteady is scribed 'J. Munday'.
That looks like a well made head steady, although the centre bolt isn't long enough to reach the Nyloc insert.
There may be another connection to the frame somewhere else that you haven't seen yet, however I would run a short spiraled cable from the the bolt with the ring connector down to the head steady Allen bolt. (bridging the ISO rubber) You might want to revisit the soldered joint on that ring connector too while you have it off Incidentally, you may find that oil crossover touches the tank (especially on the Interstate) and will remove the paint in short order and may cause a mystery rattle. If its the type of pipe I have, they can be shortened.
It looks similiar to this one https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-details/16979/factory-racer-head-steady-06-1484-
Thanks for the response. I see what you are pointing out about the center bolt. Maybe if I remove the washer on the other side it would make the nyloc part and I wont have to source a new bolt.
I will take your advice on the bridging wire, solder joint and oil crossover.
yes, similar. But also different. On mine, the supporting attachments welded to the flange that mounts to the head run at more of an angle, the side plates are thicker and shaped differently and the Allen screws securing the clamp to the lower frame tube are not recessed. I don't know if it is an earlier version or a custom made head steady.
In regards to braided oil lines touching the tank, I've also seen one rub through a petrol tank, creating a small leak during one of our Club runs.
I'll definitely focus on making sure that won't happen. I like my petrol burning inside the engine, not on the outside.
I just noticed my clutch line had wedged itself between battery box and oil tank and have started wearing away paint on both. I put a length of old rubber hose split length wise around the clutch line there so it can no longer jam into that notch. Will look at re-routing the cable next time tank is off.
I took your advice. See photo. Used rubber tube to buffer rocker line from tank (although I don't think it was making contact) and took 0.10" off the flat side of the nyloc nut so the bolt threads contact more of the locking part. Thanks for the input.
Nice job NickZ!
I like your rocker spindle end caps, where are they from?
Cliffa, I don't know where the spindle end caps were sourced. When I acquired this bike, the PO had started work, then let sit for more than a decade. In the few records that came with the bike, there is a reference to "add Rokr Spndl 'Lock' Plates (w/Alloy Covers & Allen Screws)", but no indication of where they came from. He made several performance oriented mods, including the head steady & rocker spindle caps, but also Amal Mk 2 carbs, Koni Shocks and tapered roller steering head bearings. Those last two I am not using.
I got my spindle locking cover plates in stainless from EuroJumbalaya. One piece and thus one gasket needed. I went with silicone rubber seals from jsmotorsport.