Handlebar Switch shorting

I was having a few electrical problems and found that the Blue/red wire for the headlight had come off in the handlebar switch. I have soldered it back to it's spot. I also noticed that the "points" connection on the other side of the it were worn down. I added a bit of solder so when the headlight switch was clicked on it would make a better connection. NOW, when I attach the switch back to the handlebars I can hear it shorting - I hear it at the plugs as they automatically spark (boyer ignition). I can also hear it at the handlebars - they are being electrified (low current obviously).
When I take the wiring switch out of the handlebar casing - it works ok. When I activate the headlight, I can still hear it sparking at the plugs for a second or two but then it goes away. The horn works fine and the high beam works.
I wrapped the handlebars in electrical tape where the switch casing touches but it's still happening.
Could the switch cluster be bad????? I have an extra but it would require cutting all the bullets off as they have flat end connectors.

rgla said:

I was having a few electrical problems and found that the Blue/red wire for the headlight had come off in the handlebar switch. I have soldered it back to it's spot. I also noticed that the "points" connection on the other side of the it were worn down. I added a bit of solder so when the headlight switch was clicked on it would make a better connection. NOW, when I attach the switch back to the handlebars I can hear it shorting.

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As the problem only appears to have started since the soldering was done, then I suggest you go back over your soldering work.

rgla said:

I wrapped the handlebars in electrical tape where the switch casing touches but it's still happening.

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Is the switch cluster on the left or the right (as they can be swapped over from left to right)? If it is on the left, even with the switch body insulated from the handlebar with tape there would still be a potential path to earth/ground through the clutch cable.

rgla said:

Could the switch cluster be bad?????

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The switches are fairly basic so it shouldn't be too difficult to locate and correct the fault. Note there are two power supplies to that switch cluster, a blue (from the headlamp lighting switch) and a white (for the horn and headlamp flash buttons).

Sounds like the solder point is too close to the handle bar, a common problem with the Lucas switches. I suggest that you wrap the handle bar in the area of the switch contacts with electrical tape and then fold over a piece of tape and attach it directly over the solder connections on the switch. Reattach the switch cluster to the handle bar and the tape should prevent a short to ground at the handle bar. Hope this helps.

I have had a few electrical switch issues in the past and I am no expert ,but I would listen to Les and fix it properly it's best in the long run. If the switch is US you could put aftermarket internals in and swop the buttons and housings over and you won't notice any cosmetic difference.

Jg

Lol "Lucas handlebar switch shorting". Another great trick is to use silicone sealant on the mating surfaces when you fasten it. These clusters have no protection from water by design at all.

Thanks for all your help. I have a couple new findings to add. After going back through the switch on the left (lights and horn switch), everything seems to be working good. The problem seems to be either the right hand switch cluster or the way I've spliced the white wires together. On the right hand switch there are only 2 wires being used. The WHITE/YELLOW from the switch cluster goes directly to the Boyer black box. The WHITE wire from the switch cluster is connected to the WHITE wire from the left switch cluster and the white wire that comes down from the HEADLIGHT - this white wire powers the the 2 white wires from the switches.

So the problem seems to stem from connecting the WHITE wire from the RT switch cluster. Everytime i attach it to the other 2 white wires I hear a spark from the plugs. Also when I press the KILL switch I hear a spark from the plugs. Can I run the Boyer directly to the white wire from the headlight and get rid of the kill switch and the left hand switch all together? I don't use the turn signals. The only usable switch on the RT is the kill switch.

rgla said:

So the problem seems to stem from connecting the WHITE wire from the RT switch cluster. Everytime i attach it to the other 2 white wires I hear a spark from the plugs. Also when I press the KILL switch I hear a spark from the plugs.

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A spark when switching the ignition on or off, or when pressing the kill button can be normal for a Boyer. You may also get some multiple sparking as you connect the ignition wires together if the ignition is switched on.

http://www.boyerbransden.com/faultfinding.html
"Most older MKIII ignition units will produce a spark when switching the ignition on or off",

rgla said:

Can I run the Boyer directly to the white wire from the headlight and get rid of the kill switch and the left hand switch all together? I don't use the turn signals. The only usable switch on the RT is the kill switch.

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Yes, you can, but going by what you have just said, there may not actually be a problem.

Thanks LAB for the Boyer article. I've always known that these need a fully charged batter to operate properly - but the article you sent stated that if it's hooked up to a charger - some of the symptoms I'm having could occur. Buying a new batter tonight - let's hope it works

rgla said:

but the article you sent stated that if it's hooked up to a charger - some of the symptoms I'm having could occur.

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I once tried to static time the distributor using my trusty battery charger when installing an aftermarket electronic ignition on a car. The ignition coil produced this crazy roar of sparks at precisely 3600 RPM, or 60 hertz. Yep, it was singing along with the pulsed DC coming from the charger. I have since had a timing light do the same thing while a battery charger was connected to the battery. I would have thought the battery would be enough to dampen the effect, but no...

Nathan