Gotta few Questions

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Ok 750 Commando Nov. 1972 (# 212539)
1 Is this a 1973? For parts purposes
2 Would like to just buy a battery off the shelf in the morn. What # should I look for?
3 Is this machine positive ground?
4 Are those prepainted steel gas tanks on ebay good?
5What oil do I run in engine, primary, & trans. ?
Any other info is welcome.
 
Wolfman said:
Ok 750 Commando Nov. 1972 (# 212539)
1 Is this a 1973? For parts purposes
2 Would like to just buy a battery off the shelf in the morn. What # should I look for?
3 Is this machine positive ground?
4 Are those prepainted steel gas tanks on ebay good?
5What oil do I run in engine, primary, & trans. ?
Any other info is welcome.

1 that would be close. A 72-73 workshop manual would work for you.
2 http://www.yuasabatteries.com/battery.p ... 3&vID=8106 that would be the lead acid type for this year bike.
Others will pipe in for lithium type batteries which are much lighter and will make your wallet lighter as well.
3 yes they came that way but who knows what the Previous Owner might have done.
4 no opinion on the tanks
5 this will probably start an oil debate. I use Kendal titanium 50 wt in engine, Primary I run dry as I have a belt-drive but I have in the past used Dextron2 when I ran a primary chain and the gearbox requires EP90 or another oil debate.
some will use gear oil others will use automatic transmission oil.
YMMV
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
So far as the battery goes many here (including me) get long life and reliability for Odyssey batteries....pricey but they last a VERY long time on a kick start bike. Can't recall which one specifically fits the Commando with the aid of some pads...
 
I and others I know use Morris Classic oil, straight grade, I guess to suit your weather, they also do a multigrade.
Automatic Transmission fluid in the primary.
Most people have their preferences though.
There is plenty on this forum about tanks.
Some very bad, some good.
I think the Emgo Roadster tanks seems to get the thumbs up, I believe available from Andover Norton.
I have no personal experience and have an original Interstate tank but might go for the Emgo if I change to the Roadster it was originally.
Don't think Emgo come pre painted though.
 
Hi,
On a kickstart bike the battery isn't too critical as long as it's serviceable, and yes, positive earth.
I have a Yuasa as Thomas recommends. Does the job just fine.
On the subject of tanks, I've never seen one of those pre-painted tanks in the flesh, but the shape seems off, being too low at the back. Really kills the look of a Roadster.
Indian tanks in general have a very poor reputation with some being apparently un-useable without major re-work, but the Emgo ones (sold unpainted) are excellent.
I think one or two other forum members have bought the pre-painted ones, and hopefully they'll chime in.
Generally the price reflects the quality.
That said I bought a Fastback tank from Indian eBay seller 'pummy' and it's pretty good, but it's bare metal.

Personally, I'd be wary, and it's far better to have the tinware painted as a set.

Other info... if you still have points ignition I'd strongly recommend replacing it with electronics. Pazon do an inexpensive one which is good, as are the latest Boyer offerings.
At the spendy end the Trispark and Pazon Altair are more refined. I like the Trispark as it's all self-contained in the points housing and gives a great low idle.
Others are available but I haven't used them.

Presuming yours has a front disc brake, replacing or re-sleeving the master cylinder with a smaller bore makes a huge difference to brake performance. Essential mod IMHO.

Finally, a PCV engine breather cuts oil leaks and improves engine breathing - cheap ones from Mike's XS work fine, but the CNW one looks much more refined.

Do a forum search and there's shed-loads of good info.
 
Just my opinion but run AGM batts on all three of my bikes and they last much longer than the basic lead acid
and more importantly dont leak at all so your silencers and paint are safe.
I have both Pazon altair and Sure fire on my bikes and I see little difference. Sure Fire is inexpensive and works
well.
 
Thanks guys.
I had looked into the electronic ignition but (priorities) 1st. Good chance it's gonna need an overhaul. It sat for 25 years & was stuck. Was easy to get free but tried to start it yesterday. Borrowed a 10 month old battery (Yuasa) out of my CB750 & it would not take enough of a charge to create a good spark. So will go battery shopping tomorrow (Monday). Haven't decided if I will buy another Yuasa or spend more.

I was surprised no one runs synthetic oil. Right now I have cheap oil in it & plan to change it out with better stuff right after 1st start.

I can olny kick it over 3 or 4 times with out a break. It's Hell to get old.
 
Wolfman said:
Ok 750 Commando Nov. 1972 (# 212539)
1 Is this a 1973? For parts purposes
2 Would like to just buy a battery off the shelf in the morn. What # should I look for?
3 Is this machine positive ground?
4 Are those prepainted steel gas tanks on ebay good?
5What oil do I run in engine, primary, & trans. ?
Any other info is welcome.

I have a 71 now up and running but somewhat newbie as well.

2 I am using a battery from my HD which I ran for 3 years in that bike and now am about to replace at about 6 years old. Works fine but is kind of large.
3 Factory as a positive earth, double check, some owners changed them around. Be careful with that.
4 I got a Commando Specialties unpainted steel tank. Shape is not bad but not perfect. I doenst leak OTHER than the cap. I am working on that. I cant get the OE gas cap to seal on this tank.
5 I use 20-50 Valvoline raing oil. You need to make sure there is Zinc in the formula.
My builder says use 80-90 in the gear box and 10/20 up to 20/50 motor oil in the primary. Many thoughts out there on that on. I may use the Ford type ATF when I change it. I am sure you will get many opinions on oil

6 Other info. Get out you wallet and keep it close. Good luck and welcome!
 
If you can only kick 3-4 times without getting tired, you probably wet-sumped. Just drain sump into clean container and dump back into tank.
 
Onder said:
Just my opinion but run AGM batts on all three of my bikes and they last much longer than the basic lead acid
and more importantly dont leak at all so your silencers and paint are safe.
I have both Pazon altair and Sure fire on my bikes and I see little difference. Sure Fire is inexpensive and works
well.
IMHO
I have had great luck with the standard Lead acid battery. Mine is over 6 years old. It doesn't leak as I have a small 35 mm clear film canister which I stuck on the front of battery with a tight fit hose hole on the top lid. I attach it with a electrical adhesive ziplock block to keep it in place. The one thing a battery doesn't like is lots of vibration. I use a good soft rubber battery pad I got from Walridge and that tames the vibes and a foam back pad against the oil tank. Another point is that most batteries don't die a normal old age death...they get murdered by allowing the voltage to drop way below 80% too often. I take the battery out of the bike during the cold storage in winter and I will put it on a pulse charge system every so often. So far my formula is working.
YMMV
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
Wolfman said:
Thanks guys.
I had looked into the electronic ignition but (priorities) 1st. Good chance it's gonna need an overhaul. It sat for 25 years & was stuck. Was easy to get free but tried to start it yesterday. Borrowed a 10 month old battery (Yuasa) out of my CB750 & it would not take enough of a charge to create a good spark. So will go battery shopping tomorrow (Monday). Haven't decided if I will buy another Yuasa or spend more.

I was surprised no one runs synthetic oil. Right now I have cheap oil in it & plan to change it out with better stuff right after 1st start.

I can olny kick it over 3 or 4 times with out a break. It's Hell to get old.


I run synthetic Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin oil, synthetic 80W90 in the gearbox, engine oil in the primary, a Bikemaster Tru-Gel battery and 1st-generation Boyer ignition. If you want it to fire in one kick, EI and well-sorted carbs are a must.
 
Get yourself an AGM battery. I don't even mess around with standard wet cell lead acid batteries anymore.

Standard batteries leak, the last one I bought lost one of the acid caps within a few days of being installed and spilled acid all over :(

In my experience, AGM batteries last longer and don't leak and cause corrosion.
 
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