Gearbox outer bolts stuck

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Hullsfire

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Jun 10, 2012
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Good day, all.

What would be the best method to extract the slot head bolts that all 5 are proving difficult to remove.
I've had Liquid Wrench soaking there nearly 24 hours and no dice.
Which heat treatment to use - on hand I have a propane torch (which I'm leary of using) or would a hair dryer suffice?
I don't have a heat gun.


As a side question, where on the site do I change my password? Thanks all
 
Hullsfire said:
Good day, all.

What would be the best method to extract the slot head bolts that all 5 are proving difficult to remove.
I've had Liquid Wrench soaking there nearly 24 hours and no dice.
Which heat treatment to use - on hand I have a propane torch (which I'm leary of using) or would a hair dryer suffice?
I don't have a heat gun.
Click to expand...

The Propane torch looks to be the only answer, and is my usual 'weapon of choice' in these situations.
The only items which could get damaged are the gaskets and O-rings, which I guess you'd be replacing anyway.
Nothing inside the box is susceptible AFAIK - you'd have to go some to damage the springs :twisted:
 
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For the gearbox screws use a hand impacter. One of my first special tools back in 1970 and essential for splitting yamaha cases and the like.

Gearbox outer bolts stuck
 
Heat and an impact driver. Is the box out of the bike? Drop the whole thing in a bucket of ATF and go off and leave it for about a week. I have used ATF/acetone in a 50:50 mix after reading about it on here and all my stuff just came apart without effort. You could fill the gearbox full and let it sit for a long while and hope the stuff crept up the threads. But if you are in a hurry, heat and impact driver is it. And yes, the acetone is real hard on seals.

Russ
 
Ok, got the password changed, thanks Petev.

Will you explain the operation of the hand impacter. My thinking is as I apply heat, or just after, the handle slides back and then forward hard to create vibration. Try to turn, repeat.

Is there a x2 on the use of a propane torch
 
Hullsfire said:
Ok, got the password changed, thanks Petev.

Will you explain the operation of the hand impacter. My thinking is as I apply heat, or just after, the handle slides back and then forward hard to create vibration. Try to turn, repeat.

Is there a x2 on the use of a propane torch
Click to expand...

Hand impacter works by striking it with a hammer. It is spring loaded and the force turns the head usually enough to break the seat.
Make sure you do not have the meat of your hand between the moving parts. It makes a nice crescent shaped blood blister....or so I'm told. :oops:

I do have a heat gun and that is my first choice for heat. If that fails, then I go to propane. Just a few seconds of heat will usually do it.

Also sometimes a quick tap on the impact in the 'tighten' position is enough to break it free.
 
The hand impacter is cam actuated and can be set to loosen or tighten. When held against the fastener and popped with a hammer, it both drives in and turns with great force to release the frozen fastener.

Heating the head of the screw may only prove to soften the head long before the heat get to the threads and whether you use heat or not with a slotted screw, you may still need the tool.

With the tool, no heat will be needed.
 
I can borrow one from a buddy for this situation. I'm going to look for my own though.
Thanks for the replies. Probably try this tomorrow night.
 
Just FYI...alloy expands faster than steel when heated, so heating the case actually relieves some of the tension holding the threads in place. And a heat gun is real nice to have for lots of stuff. It is a lot less likely to start a fire in your shop (but can) and it will help with worries about spot heating. On the cheap ones you can extend the life considerably by turning it to cool before shutting it off. Heck I do that on my expensive one as well. It helps cool the coils as the fan continues to blow air over them. Otherwise the coils can be prone to breaking after short time. 1500 watts is a good number but 1200 will work. Steel does not start to anneal at the temps you should be looking for.

By all means, try not to break any of the fasteners as drilling them out is a real bee-atch. So I go to great lengths to avoid it.

Russ
 
I just use a square long handle screw driver that I can put a shifting spanner on, but when you get the screws out replace them with allen head screws and you will never have any more problems with them getting them out.

Ashley
 
Not sure where you are? Impact drivers are available at Sears in the US. Good investment for any motocyclist. Not only for use as prescribed, but the tips are also a lot harder/sharper than most so they're good when threads start to (or are suspected to want to) strip even if not otherwise frozen.
 
Right on. Borrowed my buddies hand impacter and it worked a treat. Although I had to add a couple different extensions as 4 of the 5 bolts are recessed too deep for the slot head driver in the kit.

I will be purchasing my own set. I found several places in my area that I could purchase from.
Again, thanks forum.

Hullsfire
 
A trick I found coat the screwdriver tip or the impact driver with a bit of scrowing powder your wife uses to clean the kitchen sink. Helps grip the head of the screw preventing damaging the head.
 
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