Full synthetic oil or....

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Ok, the time has come to change the oil on my 1971 norton commando. Is it a good idea to switch over to full synthetic 20w-50 oil? I have heard that this would reduce the amount of smoke among other things. Let me know what y'all think. Thanks

-angel
 
Oh boy yet another oily thread. The short answer from this humanoid is do you live in a desert or race ? Me neither. Plus it leaks out quicker.
 
Monjebricks said:
I have heard that this would reduce the amount of smoke among other things.

Yes, most synthetic oil produces less visible smoke.

Oil will not fix mechanical issues. If your making smoke, you should sort it out.

If you want to try synthetic, I have found Mobil 1 V Twin works well.

Cheers
 
The molecules are smaller than conventional Dino oils. Seal swell additives are used to compensate. High mileage formulas are recommended because of this.
 
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 for flat tappet machines with the higher ZINC content and I don't have any engine oil leaks.
used it from fresh rebuild and the rings seated fine and no smoke.
Though its not the cheapist oil change in town :D
 
staticmoves said:
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 for flat tappet machines with the higher ZINC content and I don't have any engine oil leaks.
used it from fresh rebuild and the rings seated fine and no smoke.
Though its not the cheapist oil change in town :D


Can you post a link?
 
staticmoves said:
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 for flat tappet machines with the higher ZINC content

Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 Phosphorous 1600 Zinc 1700 ppm

AMSOIL 20W-50 Phosphorous 1160 Zinc 1336 ppm
 
Powereng03 said:
staticmoves said:
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 for flat tappet machines with the higher ZINC content and I don't have any engine oil leaks.
used it from fresh rebuild and the rings seated fine and no smoke.
Though its not the cheapist oil change in town :D


Can you post a link?

Powereng
You can get this at Crappy tire. Goes on sale a couple of times a year.
Cheers
CNN
 
There may or may not be better oils than the Amsoil MCV, but I like it. These zinks and what not are great but really don't come it to play until the oil breaks down or looses its properties due to heat. It's good to know it's there in case of a long down wind run or heavy hot traffic.

I sure do not mind spending more for what I believe to be the best for me and my machine. I feel some responsibility to preserve history, so to speak.


That being said, I will use Lucas 80/90 conventional in the gearbox cause that works best for me.
 
Powereng03 said:
staticmoves said:
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 for flat tappet machines with the higher ZINC content and I don't have any engine oil leaks.
used it from fresh rebuild and the rings seated fine and no smoke.
Though its not the cheapist oil change in town :D


Can you post a link?


I get mine from ROYAL DISTRIBUTING, there are many great oils, just make sure it is designed for FLAT TAPPETS.
Remeber these machines were built to run on the crap oil of the 70's designed in the 60's, so I don't know if I would be to concerned on splitting hairs with concern to ppm counts on oil purity contents with respect to the oils of today in this case.
 
Don't you mean SOLID LIFTERS? My understanding was the zinc content aids lubrication of high wear surfaces like solid lifter/cam, (radiused or flat) especially during start up when the oil isn't yet flowing to capacity and clearances aren't at operating temperatures yet. Hydraulic lifters offer some forgiveness during this stage and throughout the normal running of an engine and therefore zinc content has been reduced in modern oils.
 
RennieK said:
zinc content has been reduced in modern oils.

My understanding is metals are being removed/reduced from modern oils so catalytic convertors are not damaged.
 
RennieK said:
Don't you mean SOLID LIFTERS? My understanding was the zinc content aids lubrication of high wear surfaces like solid lifter/cam, (radiused or flat) especially during start up when the oil isn't yet flowing to capacity and clearances aren't at operating temperatures yet. Hydraulic lifters offer some forgiveness during this stage and throughout the normal running of an engine and therefore zinc content has been reduced in modern oils.


Most modern engines use roller lifters and don't require zinc/phosphate EP additive.
Non-roller lifters either radius or flat- regardless of whether they are solid or hydraulic still require additives to help reduce the friction from sliding contact. Jim
 
Yo'al do understand that the ZAPP layer is very thin and only laid down on fully heated surfaces and is whipped off on each start up so must be reformed before shut down or base metal gets a whip off each start up before oil pressure hits to separate. ZAPP does not protect in constant running but for very short moments if there is loss of oil pressure. The call the ZAPP layer nano zinc-phosphorus pads, look like little blunt wart clusters.
 
CanukNortonNut said:
Powereng03 said:
staticmoves said:
I use AMSOIL 20w-50 for flat tappet machines with the higher ZINC content and I don't have any engine oil leaks.
used it from fresh rebuild and the rings seated fine and no smoke.
Though its not the cheapist oil change in town :D


Can you post a link?

Powereng
You can get this at Crappy tire. Goes on sale a couple of times a year.
Cheers
CNN


The one I use is not the V-Twin version. I use this one, not always available.
here are two links to the DATA.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m ... 2faro.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2212.pdf
 
I got some v-twin the other day. 4 for $38. I though I'd gotten a senior discount, but she said it was because I was so handsome. Autozone, ugh.
 
If oils for use in modern engines don't contain zinc, how do modern twin cam. motors with bucket & shim type valve actuation manage? There is sliding contact there surely?
Martyn.
 
I suppose some just don't get it, Mobil 1 here in the UK = V expensive, Tesco own brand full synthetic = Cheap (even compared to monograde dinosaur oil) it even exceeded the spec of Mobil 1 for a while as the Mobil stuff was having trouble adhereing to the latest EU spec. In my MK3 with magnetic sump plug, the results are encouragingly not visible, so I will use it before anything else. If you ride all year round then use a full synthetic oil, you'll notice one hell of a difference.
 
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