Front Disc Pad Change

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With the National rally coming up I though I had better change those disc pads. It was a we bit trickier than changing the pads on my 80 series Landcruiser, but quicker. I had stuffed around with them on previous occasions when changing front tyres but this was the first time I had renewed them. so pocked the front wheel outside the garage on a block them put it on the main stand. Got a screw jack and raised the frame to hang the front wheel down and removed the block of wood. removed the axel and lowered the wheel, but were not able to get it clear of the caliper. No prob. loosen the bleed nipple [ problem. no go ] loosened the pipe to hose connection, got my son to squeeze the brake lever then proceeded to ease the pistons back carefully with pry bars while releasing the old fluid out the junction. the worst part of the job was repositioning the pads prior to pushing them back. Those little shits turned and did everything an impatient man loves them to do. No matter. Got the new pads in after some {**@!!!))(**&k5439 ] then fitted the wheel with spacers and with the help of my son to hold the weight with a lever while lining things up. Now I had to bleed the brakes after tightening the pie fittings. I knew it was a 1/4 inch across the flats and that a 12 point ring spanner just turned on the hex so figured I was going to have to use that 1/4 OE spanner. Oh well. gotta do it as I didn't have a 6 sided 1/4 tube socket. Ball peen hammer at the ready, just kept tapping the end of the bleeder nipple while keeping pressure on the spanner and she came loose. Had to drill the crap out of the nipple end then bobs yer uncle. Bled the brakes.
Sweet. Have now made a tube/cover to keep the nipple clean and dry.
Hopefully "newboots" will learn from this.
Dereck
 
Don't bother taking the wheel out just take the caliper off. Complete with hose attached though you will have to remove the two bolts holding the small bracket at the front mudguard bridge to but then whole thing comes off as one unit. If you are realy lucky depending how the flexible hose is routed you my be able to remove the master cylinder also and take the whole system off if needed without risking fluid spills near paint work.
 
+ Toppy ... I used heat shrink to make protector/cover for bleeder
Craig
 
As I separate the caliper from the disc, I slide a folded piece of springy cardboard in between the pads. This keeps them from jumping out. Then when you have everything under control you can work the new pads in place by wedging the pistons back as you go.
Jaydee
 
Love-hate to read what others face with new ways to swear at such simple machines that become family affairs to tolerate. I use rubber tube to hold pads apart to slip in rotor most the way then pull out the tube. Wait till ya ever need to open the caliper cap, ugh. Its been such a tough terror on my 2 Combat I've another type of cap to have made.
 
I keep a piece of Styrofoam kicking around the toolbox that will fit snugly between the throttle and the front brake lever. I always stick it in whenever I remove the wheel or calipers. You would be amazed at the number of people who will walk through the garge and squeeze the lever, popping your pistons out.
 
Yes amazing the peoples who drop by to say hello ,see you working on front brake ,grab the lever and squeeze it. Even talking and having a beer , no work being performed , they reach over to test that brake lever. Why ? Yes no need to remove front wheel. Any springy item helps hold pucks in place.
 
It would have been ok if the Front wheel had come right out. Bit tricky but it worked. I agree taking the whole brake asy of and putting it on the bench would have been easier but but I think the time spent was slightly less the way I did it, and I will be more prepared next time if I ever have to do it again. I was lucky the piston went back in without any trouble, and the nipple came loose easily after a fashion. Have to find a 1/4 inch six sided ring spanner for the next time [ or bleed ]. Must admit, I have had the bike for 8 yearsor so now and this is the first pad change. I recon with the 1 mm of thickness left I would have gone to the rally and back but need to guarantee result.
Not much time now till the rally and with so many other things to do I ended up ordering the pads only last Friday. Oh well. Fingers crossed.
Dereck

Ps, the whole set of disc pads for my Land Cruiser front and rear, cost about the same as those 2 little bastards.
As Andy Chain said, anything with Motorcycle or racing in the name will cost you an arm and a leg.
 
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