front disc brake

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seattle##gs

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I recently rode a Commando with a completely stock brake system and it works better than any other. I actually have to be careful when using it. And it releases well. I have no idea why it works so well. The bike is no high dollar machine, just a very effective brake.
 
The Lockheed front disc is often described as having a "wooden" feel, very hard and not progressive. If you like it, then bully for you.
 
seattle##gs said:
I recently rode a Commando with a completely stock brake system and it works better than any other. I actually have to be careful when using it. And it releases well. I have no idea why it works so well. The bike is no high dollar machine, just a very effective brake.
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Is this a belated April fool's ? :confused: Or have they changed your medication:p
I'm thinking 1/2" master cylinder upgrade .
 
No no, this is very hard to believe. It is not wooden at all. Touch the front brake and it throws me forward. Unbelievable for a Norton. I do not know what the difference could be but I wish I knew. This would astound any Norton owner.
This is not wishful thinking and no medication involved. I don't believe any master cylinder upgrade was done.
I am very familiar with the unimpressive Norton brakes.
 
The disc has probably been replaced with one which is not chrome plated. A single chrome plated disc is usually not enough, regardless of what pads are used.
I take it that a 'wooden ' feel is when you apply the brake and there is no bite ?
 
Cast iron discs provide better friction but are more likely to break than high speed steel discs. I use two 70's Suzuki discs with Lockheed callipers carrying asbestos pads. - stops like hitting a wall. And for racing, it has to be like that, or you will always go slow. If you cannot crash-stop when necessary, you will often crash.
When you ride any motorcycle, you are almost totally dependent on the front brake for survival. If you cannot rely on it, you should not ride the bike. Drum brakes are for idiots - I know, I used to race with them and paid the price. Crashing does not make you a better rider unless you learn how to avoid doing it.
 
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I don't believe I am an excellent rider, but these days I go nowhere near crashing and I am still fast enough to be in the lead bunch in most races.
 
acotrel said:
Cast iron discs provide better friction but are more likely to break than high speed steel discs. I use two 70's Suzuki discs with Lockheed callipers carrying asbestos pads. - stops like hitting a wall. And for racing, it has to be like that, or you will always go slow. If you cannot crash-stop when necessary, you will often crash.
When you ride any motorcycle, you are almost totally dependent on the front brake for survival. If you cannot rely on it, you should not ride the bike. Drum brakes are for idiots - I know, I used to race with them and paid the price. Crashing does not make you a better rider unless you learn how to avoid doing it.
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acotrel said:
I don't believe I am an excellent rider, but these days I go nowhere near crashing and I am still fast enough to be in the lead bunch in most races.
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For goodness' sake give it a rest and please try to stay ON TOPIC.
 
seattle##gs said:
I recently rode a Commando with a completely stock brake system and it works better than any other. I actually have to be careful when using it. And it releases well. I have no idea why it works so well. The bike is no high dollar machine, just a very effective brake.
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Stock Commando brakes work well when new I never had any problems with my stock brakes on my 74 Commando and could get them to lock up when I wanted to but after many years of hard use they become worn in all the parts and that's when things go wrong as in anything that is used all the times things wear out and when mine let me down in a big way and I got injured from my worn out brakes was when I decided to replace with a complete different set up and went full Grimica brake system up front, lots of people go full rebuild and others change to a better system as in my case, if your stock brakes are working as they should all good, but it depends how many miles you also have on them, my Norton was a everyday ride from when I brought it new so lots of miles and when I was 17 when I brought it was ridden hard and of course the front brakes copped a workout, but it took over 30 years before I started to have front brake problems even doing maintenance when needed and after a few rebuilds its was time to replace everything and was the reason I went to a full upgrade of my front braking system, as I am older and more wiser and doing the full change over was better than rebuilding worn out brake system, that was over 8 years ago now and was one of the best upgrades I have ever done on my Norton, you can only rebuild old brakes so many times.

Ashley
 
My refreshed 74 has a new 13mm master cylinder, new pads, rebuilt caliper with new pistons, end cap and seals, and a new brake hose.
The braking is OK, but only just OK.
I need to refresh my brain cells when wanting to use the brakes, use the back as well and don’t change up in error.
I don’t expect the same stopping power as my Busa, ZZR1400 or even the crappy Blackbird linked rubbish (they are still better than the Norton)
 
I put on a CNW Brembo and a set of RGM MZ Gold shoes and could not be happier.

If your brake sucks, change it before you cant stop short.

If your brake is strong, sweet as. Ride safe!
 
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acotrel said:
I take it that a 'wooden ' feel is when you apply the brake and there is no bite ?
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No, the 'wooden' feel is that the lever gets really hard (like a piece of wood) and you have to put the Fear-Of-God into it before anything happens. It's a hydraulic ratio thing, that goes away when you sleeve the MC for a smaller piston.
 
No matter what you do to that stock brake it will still overheat if running hard in the mountains.
It can be ok for flat land use. My 850 had two good stops in it. That's normally plenty, unless you are doing 3 downhill switchbacks and feeling frisky.
I've never been so happy to have a functioning rear brake!
Have not been able to overheat the Madass 6 pot big disc brake.

Glen
 
It's a funny old thing progress
I can remember riding with stock disc brakes on norton commando's and not thinking there was anything wrong with the brakes!
They were as good if not better than others I had ridden back in the day
The t140 was better but most of the big Japanese bikes I rode were alful
The early cb750 honda had a terrible front brake compared to the Norton
It was only years later I read people saying the commando had a "wooden" front brake
I'd like to ride a standard one now to see what they are like!
 
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I get along well enough with mine since putting that Wassell master cylinder on it. Stops better than the original and doesn't feel like I'm grabbing a brick. Actually has a bit of smooth cush when squeezing down until it grabs hard.... Almost like my old goldwing except it stops me quickly.
Living on a coastal plain the addition of the mc to stock caliper & rotor is sufficient enough.
 
I'm using this Nissin MC, works well and looks the part

74753_1_l.jpg
 
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