Front break help

Hello All.
Had master cylinder resleeved to 13mm, new stainless brake line, and newly rebuilt front caliper ( all stainless ).

last night I bled the new system from the bottom up with syringe, making sure there were no bubbles and stoped short of using all fluid in each syringe to avoid injecting bubble present at plunger in syinge.
I put in 3 syringes worth, about 30cc, closing nipple in between each injection.
Checked master cylinder, it had fluid in it now, but just a bit so I topped it up to about half way up cylinder walls or so. re attached cap and bellows, leaned bike on side stand turned bars left and pumped lever several times before lever became stiff. then brake was functioning.
how ever, after a few moments i would go back to check lever and it would pull all the way back to the bars again. :shock:
so i repeated the side stand and pump lever again and it stiffined back up, but once again I went back a few moments later and the lever would pull to the bars. Hmmmmmmmmmm........
What did I miss........

Thanks in advance......... cheers...... :roll:

Same setup here. There is still some air in there. Not necessary to keep trying to bleed it. Just tie the brake lever pulled back to the handlebar overnight. After that it will be good.

Russ

batrider said:

Same setup here. There is still some air in there. Not necessary to keep trying to bleed it. Just tie the brake lever pulled back to the handlebar overnight. After that it will be good.

Russ

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Thank you, I will give it a shot when I get home.

Cheers.........

Yes pretty routine delay to get enough air out the brake don't fade away. Just this week I partially drained fluid below the m/c to fix the leak out the bars because the boot start lock ring had fractured loosing seal force but I thought it was the boot on rough piston and bore. Anywho - There Was No Air in Hose Below the m/c and brake gripped solid w/o any foam bubbles seen, so took off into wild blue yonder and didn't notice an issue - till 20 miles away - all the while with fine easy brake, I decided good day to practice my braking squealing bravery, YIKES!!

After only 2-3 hard pull down the brake about disappeared and became like ALL The Other Restricted non-sleeved Lockheed's out there > No Matter How Hard I gripped white knuckled the tire just would not slow up to hardly matter!!! YIKES!!

It took me a good 30 min/30 miles of hard brake pumping, time and time again loosing pressure force on 3-4th try till it finally heated up to expel enough air to trust effective braking for rest of the day. i've never had this happen before but never rode right off before w/o over night lever tie back either. Do note that Trixie's brake worked fine to lock up tire at legal speeds, *on the 1st* or *2nd* pull > but *not the 3rd* - so this fooled me - till i gleefully had 3 sharp down hill uses and 3rd slowest one revealed the OH SHIT danger. Point being - just a couple good squeals gripping, every now and then, was not enough to verify full brake will be on tap - until rather heated and pumped a bunch of times. After each fade out cycle if I let brake cool for a minute or so at hwy speed I got back hard lever action, but still on 3rd or 4th serious grip it let me down. If I didn't use brake much, just normal slow downs w/o any tire squeal is seemed prefect. So don't be half fast fooled like I was on new learning curve ball.

hobot said:

Yes pretty routine delay to get enough air out the brake don't fade away. Just this week I partially drained fluid below the m/c to fix the leak out the bars because the boot start lock ring had fractured loosing seal force but I thought it was the boot on rough piston and bore. Anywho - There Was No Air in Hose Below the m/c and brake gripped solid w/o any foam bubbles seen, so took off into wild blue yonder and didn't notice an issue - till 20 miles away - all the while with fine easy brake, I decided good day to practice my braking squealing bravery, YIKES!!

After only 2-3 hard pull down the brake about disappeared and became like ALL The Other Restricted non-sleeved Lockheed's out there > No Matter How Hard I gripped white knuckled the tire just would not slow up to hardly matter!!! YIKES!!

It took me a good 30 min/30 miles of hard brake pumping, time and time again loosing pressure force on 3-4th try till it finally heated up to expel enough air to trust effective braking for rest of the day. i've never had this happen before but never rode right off before w/o over night lever tie back either. Do note that Trixie's brake worked fine to lock up tire at legal speeds, *on the 1st* or *2nd* pull > but *not the 3rd* - so this fooled me - till i gleefully had 3 sharp down hill uses and 3rd slowest one revealed the OH SHIT danger. Point being - just a couple good squeals gripping, every now and then, was not enough to verify full brake will be on tap - until rather heated and pumped a bunch of times. After each fade out cycle if I let brake cool for a minute or so at hwy speed I got back hard lever action, but still on 3rd or 4th serious grip it let me down. If I didn't use brake much, just normal slow downs w/o any tire squeal is seemed prefect. So don't be half fast fooled like I was on new learning curve ball.

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Sounds like an exciting evening out.............

Sounds like an exciting evening out.............

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No not really as I had excellent 1st and 2nd brake squeal function even with lurking air layer adhering, before I left home. I would of never discovered the sudden fade issue and likely it would of fixed itself on just a few normal brake use rides, but on Sunday I decided to test **myself** -not the brake power > as I'd already found i had to be careful not to lock below 50 mph on 100 size new tire. In fact even on my first-last ever Trixie Combt MAX OUT test a month ago, and, then 10 days ago over 115 mph tag along with world's most elite sports bikes with 5 guys from 3 states out for a real fling, I never had to use brake squealing hard nor often enough to have revealed the dangerous fade out- as only needed one good pull down then 5-30 seconds air cooling before the next brake need. Hehe a factory Combat can be ridden faster than these He Man Sports guys are willing to do here but its so freaking damaging to engine and so freaking dangerous hinging states I Promised my self that was the ONLY Time I'd press Trixie that hard - but now I know as much on Cdo dangers to avoid than anyone ever ridden one into crashes. I was relieved no end I didn't have to risk life and bike to the MAX just to stay in same game ride as hot shot sports bikes. If they'd gone a bit faster, and they could of, I'd of quit the game by first turn or two. No way I could beat them on a race track in any way but in real life Mt. hwys a Combat won't delay most packs.

I'd had the bar boot leak out 3 or 4 times on Trixie just sitting up in heat, so after fixing the lever boot lock ring and gasket maker around it i wanted to get it Hot to see if it leaked on the fly/ I've had fluid blow away unknown twice on two Combats - so had perfect brake one instant then *No Brake at All* the next instant. That my friend was almost the end of me twice flying right off at a tangent either upright like a man or sideways screaming like an infant thrown out a window. I check fluid level rather more often than oil level.

BUT on your Yikes remark...
There was one event this Sunday that I class with once in life time luck out lesion fright involving braking into a sharp turn. IF not for THE Gravel Travel lesion ***NEVER*EVER*** BRAKE HARD UNLESS FULL UPRIGHT BOTH TIRES DEAD INLINE*** I'd of lost Trixie again and my teeth and maybe life. I was practicing decreasing radius handling after some mild brake drag for ~100 yards to bleed speed to to take any scare out of what I was about to do, but saw apex area too frost heaved - crudely patched over - groovy narrow rutted surface to realize Trixie would hinge me off at 30ish mph on the lean required for 10 mph marked crook, I stayed bolt upright aimed directly at outer edge directly into bluff face, while nailing brake expecting tire squeal effectiveness but only got brake fading so bad - even full hand white knuckled locked jaw and arm adrenaline spiked panic squeeze - barely dragged speed down till front almost on paint line before stable enough to flip over sharp as I've learned too and make the turn with only some bouncing front tire groove following hinging sense at 15ish mph - instead of iso chassis whipping tires right off surface in hi side launch. I tell ya that took wind out my sails on seeking much thrills on un-tamed Commandos with imprinted to the bone sense of how far a head of time I'd better be already slow enough - I just gotta be satisfied with lack of real speed thrills on 40 yr old factory design.

While the m/c is opened its well worth while to remove all factory restiction in the rubber boot like 'valve' via as big an orange hot nail through it as on hand. None of the resleeve kits have any restriction and made me wonder how much that alone was the improvement gotten, instead of just extra hydraulic leverage - to now be of opinion the majority of better brake power from re-sleeve is mostly the lack of restrictor valve, not the extra leverage. Don't mistake my statement here, removing restriction and upping ratio give better effect on easier lever grip and smart thing to do for maxium dangerous tire squeal feathering to avoid lock up crashing. Just don't misunderstand my statement, only takes a hot nail to get same tire squeal - lock up ability as best upgrade, just needs a bit more gripping effort, which is almost thoughtless non issue safer device for surprise unpracticed panic attacks. I am very very relieved I don't have to give up on my pure factory Combat to have same braking ability on similar mass and tires mounted cycles with best racing set up. Race rigs may not fade as bad and take less effort but for real world needs they ain't got any advantage but definitely a higher skill level needed not to lock up in bad surface or surprise needs.