Front and Rear Hub Bearing Removal (2010)

Jeandr said:

The manual may be wrong there, when you pound in the bearing through the center, you are putting stress on the balls and the races, that type of bearing is not designed to take that stress. You should use a socket (or something) that pushes on the outside of the bearing (in this case).

Jean

Click to expand...

Actually, if you simply use the front axle as an alignment guide, you could use a long piece of appropriately sized pipe to drive the bearing home, via the bearing's outside diameter. That way, neither the axle or the bearing gets damaged.

Charlie

A quick question on this thread - how do you pin the felt retaining washer (Mk2 or Mk3) to the hub? I find the retaining washer does not have an interference fit, so I would need to hold it in place with two hands, then have another person perform the pinning process. Alternatively, I could bend out the dished washer flange to force it to fit.

Jdub said:

how do you pin the felt retaining washer (Mk2 or Mk3) to the hub? I find the retaining washer does not have an interference fit, so I would need to hold it in place with two hands, then have another person perform the pinning process.

Click to expand...

The 06.2071 flat felt retaining washer just 'drops' in and doesn't need to be pinned/staked.

The later 06.3012 dished washer (below) retains the felt washer assembly by an interference fit.



The early 06.7751 type below, and the one in your link needs to be staked, but I would expect an 850 Mk2 to have the later 06.3012 retaining washers front and rear.

Jdub said:

A quick question on this thread - how do you pin the felt retaining washer (Mk2 or Mk3) to the hub? I find the retaining washer does not have an interference fit, so I would need to hold it in place with two hands, then have another person perform the pinning process. Alternatively, I could bend out the dished washer flange to force it to fit.

Click to expand...

I am sure someone will have an answer, what is wrong with oiling the felt ? but is not needed with sealed bearings.

What might be more important.
The offside (non retained bearing) on both wheel hubs is floating (As is the upper steering head bearing on models with unit bearings) There is an air gap under the outer to the shoulder in the hub bore.

You might want to consider seating the retained side and then with suitable discs that contact both the inner and outer race, pull the other bearing in until it seats on the inner spacer using a threaded rod.
If you want to be really pedantic, torque the nut to the axle torque to replicate any pre-load or spacer compression (unlikely) in actual use.

The steering head bearings are no different, seat the lower bearing and pull the upper in (two isolastic outers work) until it seats on the inner spacer tube.

I found it much easier to machine the spacer and fit a 2 RS 5203 bearing so both sides were fully sealed and common off the shelf items... No made from Chinesium bearings for me.

I saved this drawing from an earlier post, I found it very helpfull.

Nice job on thread and comments , remember a lot of head scratching when I did mine quite a while ago now .... next time will be easier with this as reference , thanks !

elefantrider said:

The photos no longer appear. Is there a fix to get them to appear again please.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately I can't edit a post this old.

swooshdave said:

Unfortunately I can't edit a post this old.

Click to expand...

But I can. If you send the images (presumably from another hosting source?) to me in a PM then I can update them.

L.A.B. said:

But I can. If you send the images (presumably from another hosting source?) to me in a PM then I can update them.

Click to expand...

I have about 5000 images hosted on Photobucket. It might take me a while...

I like that drawing PR... A lot easier on my aging eyes and fading memory. Haven't wandered into these bearings in 40 years. Then off with the primary and 20 or 21 tooth sprocket and inspect bearing in clutch basket.

Just a quick note. Part 21 (NME 5276) can be substituted with clutch basket shims, 06-0894 (.036) or 06-0895 (.048) in a pinch.

If you assemble the brake assembly without a washer or shim the brake shoes may contact one or more of the rivet heads of the "fingers" that engage the cush drive; in my case it was just one of the rivet heads...took me long enough to figure it out, duh!

Best.

The PO of the 71 Commando I am working on installed a 5203-2RS bearing in the brake drum. When I separated the hub and the brake drum I saw that the felt, retaining washers, & dished washers between the drum and the hub ( which has sealed bearings in it too) were not there. Outside of the debate on the value of felt covering the seal on the sealed bearing, is there a reason anyone sees the need for them (felt, retaining washers, & dished washers ) to be put in? It seems the stepped spacer in the brake drum will contact the inner race on the bearing in the hub, so mechanically the wheel should work, but I want to make sure I am not missing a reason I need the parts.

Metisse said:

The PO of the 71 Commando I am working on installed a 5203-2RS bearing in the brake drum. When I separated the hub and the brake drum I saw that the felt, retaining washers, & dished washers between the drum and the hub ( which has sealed bearings in it too) were not there. Outside of the debate on the value of felt covering the seal on the sealed bearing, is there a reason anyone sees the need for them (felt, retaining washers, & dished washers ) to be put in? It seems the stepped spacer in the brake drum will contact the inner race on the bearing in the hub, so mechanically the wheel should work, but I want to make sure I am not missing a reason I need the parts.

Click to expand...

The felt items serve no purpose once 2RS bearings have been installed.
It is still important to make sure the spacer reduction to suit the wider 5203 is correct so the backing plate is not pushed outboard and the bearings are installed with a disc that contacts both the inner and outer races at installation.
The bearing with the locking ring seated and the brake side bearing is drawn in with two spacers (one each side/ each bearing) as it will be floating.
Not doing that can lead to preload.

About the only reason to retain those felt parts on a drum brake bike (brake side) might be for an extra barrier for brake lining 'dust.

Time Warp said:

About the only reason to retain those felt parts on a drum brake bike (brake side) might be for an extra barrier for brake lining 'dust.

Click to expand...

And that answers your earlier question ..... why oil the felt washers when using sealed bearings?

The oil helps to trap and hold any dust that might enter.

Slick