Forking nut stumped simpleton hand holding request

on a '72 the long nut that screws down into top stem bearing has a long and a short extension, which way do it go in? Not in parts books but should be under part #43 nut 07000101 and above bottom nuts also part#43, which my '72 never had. Its for Peel so know it don't realy matter but would like to know this time. As alu yokes I figured to let the long extension go up to support it better as the steel bearing in stem tube wouldn't reguire same over lap to be beefy engough. JSM composite bushes are cat's meow with a smooth pur, no detectable slack yet smooth slide that makes my old forks seem like childs wagon wheels. Tossed damper rods to drop in emulators to find didn't have to slice off damper rod threads as took up some her extended springs lenght slack I had damper rods threaded down futher to take that up and get some sag setting.

hobot said:

on a '72 the long nut that screws down into top stem bearing has a long and a short extension, which way do it go in? Not in parts books but should be under part #43 nut 07000101 and above bottom nuts also part#43, which my '72 never had. Its for Peel so know it don't realy matter but would like to know this time. As alu yokes I figured to let the long extension go up to support it better as the steel bearing in stem tube wouldn't reguire same over lap to be beefy engough. JSM composite bushes are cat's meow with a smooth pur, no detectable slack yet smooth slide that makes my old forks seem like childs wagon wheels. Tossed damper rods to drop in emulators to find didn't have to slice off damper rod threads as took up some her extended springs lenght slack I had damper rods threaded down futher to take that up and get some sag setting.

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Not sure about that nut but someone will chime in. I think it goes the other way from what you described. Those bushings should make a difference in slide on the forks...you should go the whole route like I did and put the Landsdowne dampers in there.

Then we could open the fork brace "can of worms" discussion again...if they slide smooth it might work

Yeah most my guessing ends up wrong but if this item mattered Peel and I would be long gone. This part don't show up in my manual or exploded parts book so will ask a vendor as usual with buying more parts. Thankgoodness Peel was good enough for me so would not know what to do with any better. Only thing that did concern me was not being able to see the axle area d/t it vibrating so much/fast it was a blur when I'd take risk look in mid flings. Traced that down to the sloppy brass bushes allowing ~1/8" wiggle at bottom even after trying 3 sets. so put back Peel old ones with least slack to ride with the wind. Schimdt's teal bushes took out all slack. Ed The Tomato Man showed me his modified asymmetric damper rod valves, one for rebound the other compression and how pleased he was hitting stuff that jarred or banged prior. So I looked at mine to change but then re-looked at Race Tech emulators to see that wisdom so dropped em in after setting between race stiff and off road easy. Lansdownes get rave reviews too and he's part of our Norton family so would be proud to spank sports bike with them in Peel as still looks like flunky Roadholder outwardly. Lots of fun testing/comparing to come.

I seem to remember that the long stub faces upwards in order to interface more fully with the top clamp.

thanx dave that my logic and how I'll orient it. Next task is getting the pickle juice fused bearings out.

on a '72 the long nut that screws down into top stem bearing has a long and a short extension

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I can't picture this description. On a '72-up the stem is pressed into the upper tree and the sealed bearing is driven into the steering head. A washer and a dustcover goes on the bearing and the stem is pushed through the top bearing, spacer and lower bearing. A lockwasher and single nut provides the locking.

What you describe sounds like it might be the stem adjuster (P/N 060341) found on pre-'71 trees where the stem is attached to the lower tree and uses loose balls and races (or tapered roller replacements) which pre-loads the bearings and is threaded onto the stem from the top down. This is threaded onto the stem with the long end downward.

Ron Peel's RGM alu yokes have the shaft fixed to lower yoke so works out at you say. Thot Trixie same way but 9 yr since in that area so forget. I could see how this could adjust yoke not to foul frame but the thin waster on top race then dust cover did it for Peel and Trixie. I'd made a couple attempts to knock out the stiff bearing yesterday but used a real drift instead of blunt old screw driver and booped em out, missing still fresh paint and my flesh. My Cdo's had the sealed trapped ball bearing kind If I'd thought ahead of the pickle juicing would still be good instead of stiff crunchy.

Lansdownes get rave reviews too

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yes!

Tom and I both installed Lansdownes this fall and they greatly improve front fork action over stock.

sounds like you have an early style set up , the long end of the nut goes into the bearing.
Actually on the genuine Norton type, you cant reverse the nut as each end is a different diameter.
the longer bearing end is 25mm and the other top yoke end is 25.4mm (1")

Hm, maddass thot we'd settled this but can't argue if the diameters indicate best orientation. What a clever idea for me, measure it. Long section OD is .984", short" is .997" Long narrower section fits best in the race, so that's how I'll do it now I"m better oriented. Been a decade since fitted Peel yokes so having to re learn details.