Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo

Status
Not open for further replies.
NORBECER

NORBECER

Joined
Dec 27, 2013
Messages
96
Hi Guys,
First of all I thought I would simple remove the " hand " screwed collar to get at the retaining clip etc, I passed the front axle through the two sliders to secure them, spayed penetrating oil and attempted to unscrew the collar with a rubber strap, no go.Then I went and found a pipe wrench put some tape around the collar to try and protect it, practically busted a blood vessel forcing so hard , even shocked it with a hammer, nada! So I then went for removing the fork tubes from the yokes all together and sort it out with the use of a vice. Pinch bolts out, top fork nuts out, spring and cartridge out,. Start shocking the taper by pulling down on the slider about 20 times,I even used the back side of my fork seal tool sliding it hard against the collar, zip. The manuel says to return the top bolt screw it in and wack it, don't get that one since the bolt screws into the top yoke and never comes into contact with the fork tube to actually get impacted and do anything. I have also used heat but nothing will budge. At least if I could remove the collars I could replace the seals...any suggestions will be appreciated. BTW the collars are RH, correct?
Thanks, Dennis
 
NORBECER said:
The manuel says to return the top bolt screw it in and wack it, don't get that one since the bolt screws into the top yoke and never comes into contact with the fork tube to actually get impacted and do anything.
Click to expand...

This is not correct. The top bolt "does" screw into the fork tube and not the top yoke. That's the best way to get the down tubes out if that is what you are trying to do. Thread it in a good distance so you don't damage the threads. Put something (tape) on the nut to protect it. Then give it a tap. They usually don't take much to get out unless really rusted...if so soak in good penetrant like PB Blaster and wait a day or so.

Maunal shows using a piece of wood on the nut which is a better way to protect it than tape. The fork tubes are tapered into the top yokes so once tight you have to break the taper fit to get them out. They only have to move a little to break loose.
 
dennisgb said:
NORBECER said:
The manuel says to return the top bolt screw it in and wack it, don't get that one since the bolt screws into the top yoke and never comes into contact with the fork tube to actually get impacted and do anything.
Click to expand...

This is not correct. The top bolt "does" screw into the fork tube and not the top yoke. That's the best way to get the down tubes out if that is what you are trying to do. Thread it in a good distance so you don't damage the threads. Put something (tape) on the nut to protect it. Then give it a tap. They usually don't take much to get out unless really rusted...if so soak in good penetrant like PB Blaster and wait a day or so.

Maunal shows using a piece of wood on the nut which is a better way to protect it than tape. The fork tubes are tapered into the top yokes so once tight you have to break the taper fit to get them out. They only have to move a little to break loose.
Click to expand...


This is what I see, a threaded yoke then the fork tube, unless it is an optical illusion ?

[ATTACH=full]54600[/ATTACH]
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090058.webp
    34.4 KB · Views: 76
The top bolt definitely screws into the stanchion (fork tube).

The thread you can see is inside the stanchion.
 
L.A.B. said:
The top bolt definitely screws into the stanchion (fork tube).

The thread you can see is inside the stanchion.
Click to expand...

Thanks heading to the garage now, will report back.
 
What I do before taking anything apart in the forks is to turn the forks to the left, lift off the gaiters, get a big ol' pipe wrench and loosen the seal collers.
Next take everything off, wheels, fender, brakes etc.
Loosen the pinch bolts, unscrew the top fork nuts about a 1/4" and give them a wack to break them free as they are a taper fit in the yokes which is why they look like they are part of the yoke but aren't.
Easy peezy
 
Well 50% done, only took a small hand mass :shock: the other wants to make me work a little more,more penetrating oil and a couple of hours and she should be mine :mrgreen: many thanks :D

[ATTACH=full]54602[/ATTACH]
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090060.webp
    95.1 KB · Views: 87
I guess these fork tubes are trash, some serious pitting and grooves :( , any suggestions on simple replacements :?: Do you think if I install leak proof seals they would hold oil...probably not :|

[ATTACH=full]54604[/ATTACH]
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090063.webp
    58.4 KB · Views: 85
NORBECER said:
I guess these fork tubes are trash, some serious pitting and grooves :( , any suggestions on simple replacements :?: Do you think if I install leak proof seals they would hold oil...probably not :|

[ATTACH=full]54605[/ATTACH]
Click to expand...
Probably not. I'd worry you'd be throwing good after bad to try to re-use these against new seals and bushings. If you do decide to replace them, spring for the better tubes. It'll be better for you in the long run.
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090063.webp
    58.4 KB · Views: 80
Guido said:
What I do before taking anything apart in the forks is to turn the forks to the left, lift off the gaiters, get a big ol' pipe wrench and loosen the seal collers.
Next take everything off, wheels, fender, brakes etc.
Loosen the pinch bolts, unscrew the top fork nuts about a 1/4" and give them a wack to break them free as they are a taper fit in the yokes which is why they look like they are part of the yoke but aren't.
Easy peezy
Click to expand...

Hi, While fighting with the collars, I took a coffee break and thought, hey what would Mick do? So I drilled a shallow hole into the side of the collars put the slider in my vice with soft jaws and a cloth wrap, sprayed with penetrating oil, took out the heat gun gave it a shot and used a punch to knock her lose...was effortless 8) The Gorilla approach just wasn't cutting it. No nasty pipe wrench scares either. :D

[ATTACH=full]54606[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]54607[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]54608[/ATTACH]
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090072.webp
    47.4 KB · Views: 82
  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090073.webp
    94.6 KB · Views: 83
  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090070.webp
    76.8 KB · Views: 81
Nater_Potater said:
If you do decide to replace them, spring for the better tubes. It'll be better for you in the long run.
Click to expand...

Which ones are those? "Genuine"? British Cycle lists a few (not including the + lengths)...

06-3423 FORKTUBE,COMMANDO,STD,UK MADE, EA 69.70
06-3423/A FORKTUBE,COMMANDO,STD,GENUINE, EA 149.56
06-3423/ER FORKTUBES,COMMANDO,STD,ECONO* PR 88.70

What are the cheaper ones?

And far off topic, what is the * represent in the BC price book?
 
NORBECER said:
Guido said:
What I do before taking anything apart in the forks is to turn the forks to the left, lift off the gaiters, get a big ol' pipe wrench and loosen the seal collers.
Next take everything off, wheels, fender, brakes etc.
Loosen the pinch bolts, unscrew the top fork nuts about a 1/4" and give them a wack to break them free as they are a taper fit in the yokes which is why they look like they are part of the yoke but aren't.
Easy peezy
Click to expand...

Hi, While fighting with the collars, I took a coffee break and thought, hey what would Mick do? So I drilled a shallow hole into the side of the collars put the slider in my vice with soft jaws and a cloth wrap, sprayed with penetrating oil, took out the heat gun gave it a shot and used a punch to knock her lose...was effortless 8) The Gorilla approach just wasn't cutting it. No nasty pipe wrench scares either. :D



[ATTACH=full]54609[/ATTACH]
Click to expand...


Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo


:mrgreen:
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090073.webp
    94.6 KB · Views: 81
gortnipper said:
NORBECER said:
Guido said:
What I do before taking anything apart in the forks is to turn the forks to the left, lift off the gaiters, get a big ol' pipe wrench and loosen the seal collers.
Next take everything off, wheels, fender, brakes etc.
Loosen the pinch bolts, unscrew the top fork nuts about a 1/4" and give them a wack to break them free as they are a taper fit in the yokes which is why they look like they are part of the yoke but aren't.
Easy peezy
Click to expand...

Hi, While fighting with the collars, I took a coffee break and thought, hey what would Mick do? So I drilled a shallow hole into the side of the collars put the slider in my vice with soft jaws and a cloth wrap, sprayed with penetrating oil, took out the heat gun gave it a shot and used a punch to knock her lose...was effortless 8) The Gorilla approach just wasn't cutting it. No nasty pipe wrench scares either. :D



[ATTACH=full]54610[/ATTACH]
Click to expand...

Unfortunately I had to deal with collars that were seized on the sliders, if I had the milled nut type it would have been simple. Drilling a punch hole is the next best thing for those who would rather not use a pipe wrench :D


Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo


:mrgreen:
Click to expand...
 

Attachments

  • Fork Tubes and collar won't budge 73 850 cmdo
    P1090073.webp
    94.6 KB · Views: 73
I was suggesting maybe to put the wrench type back on. $45 seems like a good deal for the next time they come apart.
 
gortnipper said:
I was suggesting maybe to put the wrench type back on. $45 seems like a good deal for the next time they come apart.
Click to expand...

Sure would simplify life that's for sure :wink:
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

NORBECER
  • Locked
Camshaft sprocket nut won't budge!
2
Replies
34
Views
2,716
Hobot
Hobot
Back
Top