Just checking am I missing something, I doubt it. Trying to get stanchion out of the slider, removed the gaiter and the screwed in collar. Won't budge, assume it is just frozen all up in there. No oil in there, likely none for many years. Any thoughts? This looks to be a brute force job, just want to make sure I am not missing anything. Tried heating up the slider, no luck so far. Thanks in advance.
Fork Teardown
- Thread starter rwalker28
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Did you remove the bolts on the bottom of the sliders? Item 18.rwalker28 said:
http://www.oldbritts.com/1972_g14.html
Hi, thanks for advice about bottom bolt. Yes I did remove that bolt, and the dampener/spring assembly came right out. Just have the stanchion balking at being pulled out. I am afraid the bike had no fork oil in for a long time, the stanchion bottomed out, and freezing in place. Taking longer to disassemble the folks than to tear the rest of the bike down, lol... Is that bolt supposed to be bolted into the dampener bottom, if so, i doubt it was, so maybe a PO has monkeyed around with this...another worry...
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rwalker28 said:
It is a real pain in the ass to unstick the fork tubes from the triple clamp. Best piece of hardwood you can find will help as you hammer away.
I am assuming that the forks are out of the triple clamp and the fork tubes are frozen in the bushings?rwalker28 said:
I guess this sort of begs the question, what are you trying to salvage and what parts are you willing to sacrifice. If you want to save it all (tubes are likely toasted anyhow) then you're going to have to dunk the whole thing in a tank of something.
I would think that the sliders are what you want to keep, if nothing else. If that turns out to be the compromise then it will be fairly straight forward to get it apart. Drilling a hole near the top in the sacrificial tubes and putting a bolt through it giving you something to apply force to with a large pipe fitting, of some sort, slipped over the tube acting as a slide hammer. This application should bring the bushings with the tubes out with the bushing to slider fit as the point of least resistance.
A little radical, but effective.
Hi all - the forks are out of the triple clamps. Given how easy it was to do other things that are normally advised to be difficult (engine sproket, mainshaft nut - easy as anything) I was hoping that the forks would come apart easy. Stanchions are rusted so not salvagable and not terribly expensive to replace (but not terribly cheap either... hopefully sliders are not worn bad inside. Any thoughts what the best place to get main tubes is?
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It's a few years since I stripped Norton forks down, but my unreliable memory is telling me that the fork seals hold the stanchions into the sliders and need a bit of brute force. Push the stanchion down and yank it up good and hard a few times. Watch the fork seal to see if it moves each time.
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rwalker28 said:
To separate the stanchion from the slider, the stanchion has to be withdrawn sharply enough to draw the upper fork bush out of the slider.
See Factory manual, Section G, G3 1- 4:
After securing the slider in a vice/vise and unscrewing the collar, it says to: "Grasp the main fork tube with both hands and with a number of upward jerking movements, free the oil seal, paper washer and top collar" (and bush!)"
However, I find it easier doing it the opposite way, by jerking the sliders down sharply to free them from stanchions before the fork legs have been removed from the yokes/trees.
batrider
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What LAB says, plus I have sometimes have had to use a heat gun on the slider in the seal area. Also, penetrating oil will help especially if you say there has been no lube. Support the top of the tube and use the lower leg as a slide hammer. Make sure no sharp objects around to fall on when it gives.
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LAB is 100%, Stanchion in a good solid vice, then "slide hammer" the slider off,a tad of heat around the top bush area helps.
Lab and JRBjohn robert bould said:
This would be all well and good, and under normal circumstances a routine solution, if the stanchions (fork tubes) weren't bottomed out and apparently encrusted within. Any slide action will have to be fabricated externally with the sacrificial stanchions (fork tubes).
Keep up
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pvisseriii said:
If the parts are stuck bottomed out, then it's probably the rust on the surface of stanchion causing it to stick inside the upper bush, as the stanchion and bush will already be scrap, it should be possible to free the slider by knocking it off the stanchion with a hammer and a wood block. If the corrosion has got into the slider then it too will be scrap-so there's nothing to lose.
Lots of good conversation, that I greatly appreciate. I believe the whole thing is rusted together. Rest of the bike is in remarkably good shape (odd bits missing, oil tank brace broken, stuff like that) for the forks to be so screwed up, and that kind of surprised me. When I took the top nuts off the forks the damper was not attached, so someone was messing with them. If they are a total loss, that was not in the budget, but it is what it is. From my internet searching, looks like a guy can get 100% of the parts, so that is good, if so, time to look at all the "what would (can, should) I do to my forks" threads. I am about a 200 +/- 5LB dude, will likely rarely ride double, and my daredevil days are mostly over, so I seek a comfortable ride that is very reliable, and the budget is not such a big deal (but I tell the people asking for money in front of the Circle K, two words that never go next to each other in the english language are "extra" and "money." If anyone has a thread they remember on fork rebuilds that fits my criteria, please point me to it. No need to start a new one, makes searching harder when there are several on the same topic.
DogT
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I'm probably wrong, but isn't jrb making inserts for the sliders? That would be an option against buying new. Don't know about sleeving the inside of the slider otherwise, I suppose it could be done if removing the stanchion ruins the slider. But might be cheaper and easier to buy new, don't know.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
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correct, Steel inserts and plastic or bronze bottom bush's,
DogT said:
HI Dave, I think i saw something about someone resleeving sliders, cost I don't remember...I wondered if one could resleeve with a material that is more resistant to wear, resistant to stiction but that was just speculation/guessing. If I find that source, i will report back.
Yes, I think you are right on with that. Very early 74. People get very confused with model year vs production dates. They tend to overlap considerably. or obusively. or confusingly. or notoriously. You choose!rwalker28 said:
850 Models:
Month Year Serial No. Model/Notes
Apr 1973 300000 First 850
Sep 1973 306591 MkIA 850
Jan 1974 307311 MkII and IIA 850
Feb 1975 325001 First engine number MkIII
F125001 Frame number MkIII
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Dog T, No reaming required, the sleeve is 1mm wall, bottom bush is 2mm smaller,top bush standard. Easy to do it your self...i will get lab to post a picture.
DogT said:
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