Fork dust seals

ed.lazda · Aug 23, 2012

Sorry if this is a really trivial question, but .... What is the best way to remove these, and is it possible to remove them without destroying them in the process? I'm talking about the short ones that cover the junction of the stanchion and the slider.

The manual is helpful: " ... slide the gaiters up the fork tube ..." Mine won't slide anywhere, even with application of hammer and drift.

I also like the way the manual suggests that you should be able to loosen the seal collar with your bare hands. I've got as far as a 10-inch wrench and it hasn't budged yet. I'm waiting to see if some Plus Gas will loosen it up. If not, would heating it up with a hot air gun help? And should I put some copper grease on when reassembling to stop this happening again?

Many thanks, Ed.

john robert bould · Aug 23, 2012

Light and time causes the rubber to keep curing, the once soft pliable rubber becomes plastic like...cut them off and put new on.

Bernhard · Aug 23, 2012

For the fork seal;
If they are that difficult to get out, (I assume you have removed the inside circlip holding the seals in) the only remedy is heat and shock.
Heat up the bottom fork leg by pouring boiling hot water on them, and with the sanction clamped in a vice, with something to protect the outside finish, try sliding the bottom slider using it as a sliding hammer to get the shock effect.

L.A.B. · Aug 23, 2012

Bernhard said:
For the fork seal;
If they are that difficult to get out, (I assume you have removed the inside circlip holding the seals in) the only remedy is heat and shock.
Heat up the bottom fork leg by pouring boiling hot water on them, and with the sanction clamped in a vice, with something to protect the outside finish, try sliding the bottom slider using it as a sliding hammer to get the shock effect.

You must be thinking of a different type of fork?

The Roadholder seal is retained by a threaded collar (which is the part Ed is trying to unscrew) not a circlip.

Ed,
Heat and penetrating fluid should help.

Hobot · Aug 23, 2012

Bit confusing on terminology. Dust seals could be the gaiters while oil seals are the screwed down too tight and fused on buggers. I've had to use heat, usually aimed propane torch then heavy leather wrap pad for the teeth-jaws of 18" long channel lock 'water pump' pliers or pipe wrench. I've used teflon tape, which tends to just tear up and greasy silvery anti-sieze which seems to eventually dissolve wash out, but enough remains to allow normal civilized efforts to service again. The leather wrap I used is almost 1/4" thick very tough cow hide scrap and it got cut-torn to point some teeth marks still got through. Its not uncommon to have to ruin the finish or the whole part if so fused-wedged tight nothing else to do but grit teeth and get it over and buy replacements not put on so stupidly tight.

john robert bould · Aug 23, 2012

Dust or Oil :?:

L.A.B. said:
Bernhard said:

For the fork seal;
If they are that difficult to get out, (I assume you have removed the inside circlip holding the seals in) the only remedy is heat and shock.
Heat up the bottom fork leg by pouring boiling hot water on them, and with the sanction clamped in a vice, with something to protect the outside finish, try sliding the bottom slider using it as a sliding hammer to get the shock effect.

Click to expand...

You must be thinking of a different type of fork?

The Roadholder seal is retained by a threaded collar (which is the part Ed is trying to unscrew) not a circlip.

Ed,
Heat and penetrating fluid should help.

pete.v · Aug 23, 2012

Yes, the dust cover can be a real bitch to the unaware. Get a tiny screw driver in there just enough to get a razor on it. Or if you want ot save them, wrap it in a wet towel and pour boiling water on it. With that small screw driver, get it started up and off the groove of the seal retaining collar and work it around and off.

Even new ones can be a little stiff.

L.A.B. · Aug 23, 2012

john robert bould said:
Dust or Oil :?:

L.A.B. said:

Bernhard said:

For the fork seal;
If they are that difficult to get out, (I assume you have removed the inside circlip holding the seals in) the only remedy is heat and shock.
Heat up the bottom fork leg by pouring boiling hot water on them, and with the sanction clamped in a vice, with something to protect the outside finish, try sliding the bottom slider using it as a sliding hammer to get the shock effect.

Click to expand...

You must be thinking of a different type of fork?

The Roadholder seal is retained by a threaded collar (which is the part Ed is trying to unscrew) not a circlip.

Ed,
Heat and penetrating fluid should help.

Click to expand...

The oil seal.
Ed asked:

ed.lazda said:
I also like the way the manual suggests that you should be able to loosen the seal collar with your bare hands. I've got as far as a 10-inch wrench and it hasn't budged yet. I'm waiting to see if some Plus Gas will loosen it up. If not, would heating it up with a hot air gun help? And should I put some copper grease on when reassembling to stop this happening again?

I thought I'd made that reasonably clear but perhaps not, as the dust seal can be cut off if has become age hardened as you'd said and removing it shouldn't really present anyone with much of a problem, unlike the threaded collar.

john robert bould · Aug 23, 2012

He said gattor, the thing between the slider and leg..that he cannot slide up..dont sound anything like a seal..to me. they get knocked out with the top bush :roll:

L.A.B. · Aug 23, 2012

john robert bould said:
He said gattor, the thing between the slider and leg..that he cannot slide up..dont sound anything like a seal..to me. they get knocked out with the top bush :roll:

Ed refers to the seal collar in the second part of his original message (where he remarks about the manual stating that it can be removed by hand pressure).

ed.lazda said:
I also like the way the manual suggests that you should be able to loosen the seal collar with your bare hands. I've got as far as a 10-inch wrench and it hasn't budged yet.

iceteanolemon · Aug 23, 2012

When I did mine I squished the dust seal downward and the lip pushed out of the groove aver the fork. Then after that I could slide a very small screwdriver under it and leverage it off.

of course i put electrical tape on the screwdriver so i dont scratch all kinds of crap!

drones76 · Aug 23, 2012

For the small gaiters or dust seals, an application of heat from an electric heat gun was all that was needed on mine. They had gotten very brittle(sitting for 20 years). The heat made them pliable enough to remove easily.

ed.lazda · Aug 23, 2012

Thanks all for your comments, sorry for the confusion.

By dust seals I meant the short black rubber or plastic things that go over the junction between the stanchion and the fork slider. I got one off by destroying it. I think they are very old and I'll probably just cut the other one off and put new ones on.

By fork seal collar I meant the threaded steel collar that goes on after the oil seal, and holds it in place. I have now got one off with heat, penetrating fluid and a sharp tug with a big wrench.

Cheers

Ed

Snorton74 · Aug 23, 2012

I understood what you were talking about. Any blood in the water can cause a feeding frenzy. Ha

john robert bould · Aug 23, 2012

Heat , is the answer..the alloy leg will expand more than the steel.

i

ed.lazda said:
Thanks all for your comments, sorry for the confusion.

By dust seals I meant the short black rubber or plastic things that go over the junction between the stanchion and the fork slider. I got one off by destroying it. I think they are very old and I'll probably just cut the other one off and put new ones on.

By fork seal collar I meant the threaded steel collar that goes on after the oil seal, and holds it in place. I have now got one off with heat, penetrating fluid and a sharp tug with a big wrench.

Cheers

Ed

Bernhard · Aug 25, 2012

L.A.B. said:
Bernhard said:

For the fork seal;
If they are that difficult to get out, (I assume you have removed the inside circlip holding the seals in) the only remedy is heat and shock.
Heat up the bottom fork leg by pouring boiling hot water on them, and with the sanction clamped in a vice, with something to protect the outside finish, try sliding the bottom slider using it as a sliding hammer to get the shock effect.

Click to expand...

You must be thinking of a different type of fork?

The Roadholder seal is retained by a threaded collar (which is the part Ed is trying to unscrew) not a circlip.

Ed,
Heat and penetrating fluid should help.

Ooophs :!:
What was I thinking off :?:
I clearly didn’t have my Norton brain cell engaged when I replied to this message.
Note to self; must try harder :!:

Fork dust seals

ed.lazda

john robert bould

Bernhard

L.A.B.

Moderator

Hobot

john robert bould

pete.v

L.A.B.

Moderator

john robert bould

L.A.B.

Moderator

iceteanolemon

drones76

ed.lazda

Snorton74

john robert bould

Bernhard

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