working on overhauling front forks, one of the damper tubes/springs is actually STUCK in the stanchion. i've got the stanchion and slider apart and the stanchion in the vice right now, i don't want to beat on it too bad not knowing whats going on, but it's STUCK right now. couldn't find any info anywhere on this, what could be causing this and whats the best approach to get it out?
Fork damper stuck in stanchion (2013)
- Thread starter kevbo82
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i gave up on easy does it a few hours ago. Here are the best pics i could get. The other fork came apart and went back together with no problem. This one i left upside to drain, then took out the bolt and washer from the bottom of the slider, turned it over, and tried to slide the damper/spring out and it went as far as it is now and stopped. so i took the slider off and here i am. I took a socket on an extension and put it in the end and gave it some blows and still no movement. it's about 3/4" in from the end. gotta be something stuck in there with it!? I've also tried pushing it back the other way, i put the top on the floor and put all my weight on it and compressed the spring and still it didn't move back either.
madass140
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the bigger of the 2 holes in the last pic loos suspicious , the deburring on the top of the hole looks very uneven as if it was done with a bigger drill bit, not standard looking at all, which makes me wonder if whoever drilled the hole in the first place or maybe enlarged it, left a burr or ragged edge inside causing the damper tube to catch on it.
I sort of see now. I was thinking some thing else.
This may be something you know and i am still not clear on you situation but i believe the damper comes out the bottom of the fork tube.
Slide coller is unscrewed then fork tube is used to pop out the seals and bushing along with the tube, THEN the damper and associated stuff.
This may be something you know and i am still not clear on you situation but i believe the damper comes out the bottom of the fork tube.
Slide coller is unscrewed then fork tube is used to pop out the seals and bushing along with the tube, THEN the damper and associated stuff.
Ya know your right. I started trying to think how I even got in this position, I think I just took out that lower bolt too soon, then I tipped the whole fork over to drain the oil out which is when the damper popped out at the top of the fork, and must have wedged itself there. I think tomorrow ill go to the hardware store and get a longer 5/16 24 bolt and some large washers and try to pull the damper back downpvisseriii said:
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If they have been re-chromed the holes can look like that,where the chromer as used a carbide bur to remove the edge...seen some rough work from the platers "lad"
madass140 said:
I'm in a similar situation now. Trying to replace dampers in situ, unscrewed the fork top nuts and removed the axle and the bottom damper bolts. Left damper slid out easily. Right one ain't budging. It's pulling the fork lower up with it, acting as though the bolt into the damper is still in (it's not).
Any constructive advice will be most appreciated.
Thanks - BrianK
Any constructive advice will be most appreciated.
Thanks - BrianK
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With the bolt removed then the damper has to be stuck in the slider. A sharp downward tap on the slider should separate them.
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If you use the slider as a slide hammer the damper rod would need to be in restrained position above the top of the stanchion to avoid top out contact of the upper and lower bush ?
Maybe a piece of 3mm flat bar in a spring coil a few inches from the cap that would contact the stanchion top as the slider is moved downward.
Maybe a piece of 3mm flat bar in a spring coil a few inches from the cap that would contact the stanchion top as the slider is moved downward.
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Or, leave the cap bolt attached to the top of the damper rod (screwed a few turns into the stanchion to prevent thread damage) as that would leave about 2" of free space for the slider to drop.
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Yes, I was thinking of my extended RGM top bushes most likely.
The damper tube spigot is only 1/2" OD by 3/16" deep so odd that it would have that much resistance to removal.
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It's not just the spigot as the (approx.) 0.945" diameter section at the bottom of the damper also sits (approx.) 3/8" down in the slider (see the previous diagram).
Success! Used Pete.V's technique and inserted a longer bolt. Couple very gentle taps with a BFH loosened it perfectly. Gosh darn fiber washer even came out with the damper! Now to fish out the one in the left slider....
Thanks for the input and suggestions, all. Much appreciated! - BrianK
Thanks for the input and suggestions, all. Much appreciated! - BrianK
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Yes the longer bolt method 4 sure.
yes it worked well. Particularly with benefit of Les's diagram of the works. That's what gave me comfort (i.e. the amount of force needed is not going to be great) it could be done. That longer bolt, em, wasn't exactly a proper thread. But sufficient as it turns out. (And the old damper rod threats are undamaged to boot).
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