Fitting complete engine into frame

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jug

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Hi, read and been told that you can fit a complete engine inc, head into the frame on our Commando's.
I have always fitted the engine minus the head, then fitted the head once the bottom end with cylinders were mounted.
Is this all frames or only the early frames without the tube under the back bone.
Cant see how it can be done without scratching the shit out of a freshly painted frame, maybe I'm not looking at it correctly.
Would make life a lot easier if it can be done with the head fitted.
Guys, a one word answer will suffice. Yes or no to all frames.
Cheers JUG
 
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Sorry, not a one word answer but a popular way seems to be to lay the motor on its side and lower the frame over it. Not much good if the bikes otherwise complete!
 
YES! ... and that is THE only way I do it; I wouldn't even consider installing engine minus the cylinder head and barrel in the frame. Plus, way easier to line up push rods, etc. Also, that is the way Mick Hemmings does it in his rebuild video. (any other way is much needless grief IMO.)
 
All good, that's the way I'm gunna do it this time. Well try anyway.:D
jug
 
If you have a bike lift and the bike is near eye level, fitting the head and aligning the pushrods is no harder than when the engine is on the bench. I use a small tool with a hook on the end to grab the push rods and pull them into place. One you get a lifter in a push rod, loop a rubber band over the lifter and a rocker cover stud to hold the lifter in place.
 
For me the best way is to fit the motor bottom end into the frame first,then fit the barrel then the head,I find this the easiest way by far , I have never scratched the frame and I don't struggle to lift anything I only ever work on my my own ,i guess everyone has there own favourite way of doing things
 
If you have a bike lift and the bike is near eye level, fitting the head and aligning the pushrods is no harder than when the engine is on the bench. I use a small tool with a hook on the end to grab the push rods and pull them into place. One you get a lifter in a push rod, loop a rubber band over the lifter and a rocker cover stud to hold the lifter in place.
I use a similar teqnique ,I fit all the push rods into the head,then I twist a rubber band round them in a double figure of 8 to retain them then as I lower the head onto the barrel and when it's almost down I pull the rubber band out with some long nose pliers,then tighten the head down
 
For the pushrods, I just place the pushrods in the inverted head, cram a wadded up strip of old t-shirt in each tunnel with the end of the two strips sticking out clear of the head about 4":, tilt and lower the head into place, then pull the strips of cloth out. Bingo.
 
No one ever mentioned rubber band push rod retainers till hobot posted trying it to post to Birt Iron list for others future ease in 2004. If solo, best to install half engine, if an assistant, whole engine best installed mounted in cradle for leverage handle to shove in iso bolts, rear first to pivot align to beat it down into front tabs.
 
For me the best way is to fit the motor bottom end into the frame first,then fit the barrel then the head,I find this the easiest way by far , I have never scratched the frame and I don't struggle to lift anything I only ever work on my my own ,i guess everyone has there own favourite way of doing things
Yep, that's how I've done it in the past. Re-built about 4 like that over the years.
JUG
 
Transmission MUST go in before the power unit, or you'll have a bit of a struggle and fuss. ESPECIALLY with the rear breather models.

Yes, you CAN leave the front mount off, tip the cradle WAY up (pivoting on the rear iso bolt), then lean the power unit forward, pivoting on the single bottom thru-bolt; but that's twice as much work as installing the transmission FIRST.
 
I've put complete Commando motors in 1971 or later frames on four different occasions and, frankly, don't recall having any serious problem BUT the last time I did that was 11 years ago and, sadly, I don't remember any specifics. In every case it was with a newly painted frame. In more recent situations - different bikes - I usually put some duct tape on the frame where I think there could be scratching issues with component installation. I PROBABLY did that on the Commandos but I don't remember.
 
No one ever mentioned rubber band push rod retainers till hobot posted trying it to post to Birt Iron list for others future ease in 2004. If solo, best to install half engine, if an assistant, whole engine best installed mounted in cradle for leverage handle to shove in iso bolts, rear first to pivot align to beat it down into front tabs.
hi hobot
No one ever mentioned rubber band push rod retainers till hobot posted trying it to post to Birt Iron list for others future ease in 2004. If solo, best to install half engine, if an assistant, whole engine best installed mounted in cradle for leverage handle to shove in iso bolts, rear first to pivot align to beat it down into front tabs.
Hi hobot good to see you back on here,I have always used the rubber band method never had a problem with it,I got the Idea from using the pushrod comb on my A10 , cheers
 
I’m in mexiMike camp , have had engine out several (3) times , don’t recall any issues ... had bike elevated maybe 2’ the last couple times , first time on the floor ... have not called for help yet ... also no damages done to any finish ... didn’t realize it was supposed to be difficult ... prolly never be able to do it again ....
Craig
 
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