You whack it round till the pistons are at the TOP ( T.D.C. being a abbreviation of ' Top Dead Centre ' .
Now if youre nailing on a Degree Wheel , and a Pointer . We can get Excited . It all gets a bit vauge , at the Top .
So 'we ' get it up there , & about centered . Now comes the demanding bit . We get ' something ' that holds the piston down a bit .
Say 1/8 in. or 1/4 in. Like a strap with the end bent down . a bit of steel ( ford alternator strap ? & a nut , under it . Or w.h.y.
( abreviation for something thatll do the trick )
NOW . . . swing it ea. way . C A R E F U L L Y ,
as it stops , check the degree wheel mark . IF for example it said ( or was ) 8 degees off the ' O ' ( zero ) one way , and 14 Deg. of the Zero the other we would go , 8 + 14 = something , such as 22 .
therefore 22 / 2 = 11 .
8 from 11 is 3 , or 14 from 11 is - 3 . therefore its about three out , so , we shift the degree wheel , or whack the pointer , so the sucker reads the same , with the crank swunng the same distance down , Ea. way . Reading the same , before & after .
this gets us spot on the mark , for ' zero ' degrees , AT T.D.C. = pistons & more importantly CRANKPINS at the top .
While we're at it , particularly if weve got a dial guage , we get 3/8 B.T.D.C. also , checking the Zero's still right . and
weve got the Ignition Point . or thereabouts . So it pulls wheelies of the line correctly .
actually , you can put a few marks there re;lateing to Ign.
Fully advanced , fully retarded ,
& say one at 1/3 or 1/2 advance .
Then with a strobe on the ignition , you can evaluate your advance curve .
Or set it Static .