Elec. Ignition choices.

Britfan60

Britfan60

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Jan 5, 2014
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My Boyer went bad on my T140D. It would break down after about 20 miles and then restart when cooled off. Currently running points until a decision is made. Should I go back with that brand or are there any others you folks consider to be a better system? The Lucas on my other one is original electronic ignition, 37 years old and still working like a champ.
 
True. but its run two seasons perfectly on the points. I would just like to go back to electronic.
 
I am running basic Pazon Surefire on two of my bikes, it never failed AND most importantly doesn't change its setting if he battery voltage happens to be on the low side.

On my Laverda I had installed a most excellent programmable Sachse Electronik unit, more expensive but perfect always.
 
I am no longer going to recommend Sparx that I've had 99% success with (literally one failure out of 100).

...but I'm still using them exclusively on my own bikes.
 
grandpaul said:
I am no longer going to recommend Sparx that I've had 99% success with (literally one failure out of 100).

...but I'm still using them exclusively on my own bikes.
Click to expand...

Why would you not recommend that with such a success rating? I wouldn't hunt anybody down if their recommendation fails. :?
 
It's been 11+ years, and the only ignition that I've had reported was way back from '06.
 
I agree that it sounds as if the coils are dying on your bike, rather than the ignition. I would test the coils under heat stress.

If you are fitting an aftermarket ignition follow the manufactures advice on choice of coils, HT caps resistance etc etc and make sure that the system is reliably grounded and that parts such as the ignition switch and ignition cut out switch don't intermittently lose contact under vibration. Otherwise you might end up chasing your tail all around the world and end up blaming the ignition manufacturer.

I have used ignitions from Silent Hektik, Sachse and Boyer, all have worked well. I would not use an ignition that mounts its "black box" inside the engine, because it puts the components under unneeded stress from heat and vibration. Away in cooling air is better even if it's more difficult to fit.
 
I changed the coils prior to removing the ignition. Same symptoms. Stuck in the points, runs great. No stalling.
 
take a look at the Vape ignition ( Wassell ) performs very well and much better construction than Boyer / Pazon analogue units
 
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