Different Rear Brake Switch location

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I give up. I can't stand the stock rear brake switch. Everyone, I am sure, knows the problems with the switch and especially the mount.

I could sure use some suggestions. I especially could use some pictures of altenate switch mountings.

Thanks in advance.
 
Yeah, it's a piece of crap. I was toying with the idea of putting a little micro-switch on it as a replacement, it would fit on the plate that mounts that horrible switch easily and contact the same area. But I haven't done it.

I also want to replace the sponge of a front brake cable with the sponge switch in it. It would be real easy to mount another micro-switch on the front brake (at least the drum) and route some small wires back up to the harness under the tank.

That would be a real modern improvement.

Dave
69S
 
I would like to change the entire location of the rear switch. No matter what you put on the lever, it's asking to get hit, dirty, wet, etc. Not to mention, it looks terrible.
 
How about a low voltage magnet based proximity sensor(not a switch) mounted on the brake backing plate, discreet, the small magnet could be mounted on the brake lever and as it gets close an/or alighns to the sensor, the tail lamp is triggered. Food for thought I use magnet based reed switch sensors in my work, they operate down to 3000meters of sea water so are reasonbly waterproof!!!!
Regards Mike
 
I just replaced mine with a brake light switch off a early Honda dirtbike with a spring, just bent a alloy bracket and drilled a hole so the switch lockes on it and a small hole to be mounted on the foot peg mount and put the spring to the brake lever, works a treat and doesn't look out of place, took me less than 30 mins to make and has been on the bike for 6 months now without any problems, I had to go this way as my Gremca front brake doesn't have a place for a switch and the rear Norton switch lasted only a month before it broke, so any old Honda dirtbike with drum brakes will have this kind of switch.

Ashley
 
Thanks Brooking 850, but your idea would require me to think FAR more than I am capable of. Think freshman highschool wood shop.

Thanks illf8ed, but I am trying to move away from the plate on the pedal.

ashman, got pic?
 
Hi Diablough, not to hard, sensor comes already with 2 x wires insulated from the waterproof reed switch, join the two wires going to the original foot pedal switch, fasten/glue sensor to brake backing plate, secure wiring along outside of swingarm, fasten glue small magnet to brake lever, as pedal is depressed, magnet passes the sensor and triggers the tail light.
When I get back to my bike will mock one up and post pics here
Regards Mike
 
illf8ed said:

I looked into these recently because the rubber boot on my 40 year old stock switch got stiff and would not allow the contact to move. The $68 unit they sell uses a $4 crummy Chinese switch. I was going to make my own mounting plate and found those exact switches on eBay. Beware - there are right and left handed (mirror image) versions. Of course I bought the wrong handed one but once I got it I decided there was no way I'd even want to get the correct one.

Will take some pix when I get home of the one I made. I bought 10 heavy duty surplus Cherry microswitches on eBay for $10 and made my own simple mounting plate/spacer out of 1/4" aluminum - 4 holes. The switches I bought have blade terminals which will plug right into the female harness connectors. Now it works great and there is a nice little click instead of mush when the pedal is pressed. I don't think the stock location is all that bad looking and this isn't any worse.
 
I like the prox sensor idea, I may work with that if I can find some. You could put it almost anywhere there is brake movement.

Dave
69S
 
My experience with magnetic reed switches is that they don't like vibration very much. I would be interested to find out I am wrong.

Russ
 
I couldn't stand messing with the OEM rear switch anymore and took it off completely when I installed rear sets. Then I'm thinking, hey, no brake light to alert the tailgaters unless I want to use the front brake and there are times I don't wanna do that (I still remember that lazy, slow-motion, 5mph low side at the end of a gravel road I'd traveled many times before). So, when doing some work on the harness anyway, I took the time to wire the unused push button on my left side handlebar switch to activate the brake light. Works for me. I get to flash my brake light whenever I want, including when I'm actually slowing using only the rear brake, but also when someone is too close. If it's a regular type stop, the front switch does the job.
 
I have been replacing that "switch" :evil: with a micro switch from Alled Electronics.
Part # BZ-2RW825-A2
Minor mods to mounting plate and a great improvement.
Mike
 
Here some pics of my set up



Different Rear Brake Switch location


Different Rear Brake Switch location


and works realy well.

Ashley
 
VintAge said:
I couldn't stand messing with the OEM rear switch anymore and took it off completely when I installed rear sets. Then I'm thinking, hey, no brake light to alert the tailgaters unless I want to use the front brake and there are times I don't wanna do that (I still remember that lazy, slow-motion, 5mph low side at the end of a gravel road I'd traveled many times before). So, when doing some work on the harness anyway, I took the time to wire the unused push button on my left side handlebar switch to activate the brake light. Works for me. I get to flash my brake light whenever I want, including when I'm actually slowing using only the rear brake, but also when someone is too close. If it's a regular type stop, the front switch does the job.

Interesting idea.
 
Oh my yes Rvich, THE Gravel is unforgiving teacher about traction and alignment of tire forces right up to time your foot is down, but if still rolling any at all you are still fresh meat to take down in a flash. Brake light is a non-issue if going so slow that rear brake can be used effectively so already so slow no one is going to run into ya w/o warning or would any way even if waving a burning flair - and pretty stupid not to be covering front also enough to light up. What is more useful to me is brake and tail light cut off so I'm not seen when running form police after dark to escape off obvious path. Ghost Rider missed a few tricks like this and got his ass caught in the end. Never Ever have forks turned at all or bike leaned at all if best brake effect is critical or pulling to a stop last 3 mph on THE G#$@Q^%#! If you are practiced at trail braking I consider you the biggest fool there is and that includes racers as that is the WORST slowing up state to put bike in. I only brake straight on straight up *NEVER* in turns, so I can always use good throttle before entering or I know I'm a fool myself for over cooking a joy ride turn, be it over the ton or 2-3 mph.
 
Was trying to keep a stock look. What I did:

Normally closed switch (like a refrigerator door switch).
Different Rear Brake Switch location


With aluminum mounting spacer. Two holes line up with switch and two below to footpedal bracket.
Different Rear Brake Switch location


The tabs for the harness connections were bent downwards with pliers. The mounting plate and footpeg arm hide the switch pretty well.

Will have to see what happens with this after riding in the rain. Switch is probably not waterproof but I have 9 more just in case... When I was all done I found another stock switch in my "supplies".
 
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