Deeper 72 rear stub axle missfit issue

'72 rear stub axle missfit issue. [ repeated so can search in forum later]

OK I'm stumped and back again for hand holding. First off Trixie seems to have the stub axle shown below on R end, but they all look like should work for a '72, ie: on assembly stub axle bares against the brake plate holding plate away from drum enough it don't rub drum raw in the drum plate rim groove or in this instant case, Stub axle holds brake plate like 1/4" gap so brake shoes exposed. UGH. Got a Polar Bear ride but Trixie is down till figured out.



Issue appears to be stub axle round section below the traping flats is too long if stub axle flange is held tight to drum snout rim. When I assemble and place brake plate rim in drum groove just clearing it - this pushed the stub axle into drum away from the snout rim. The new 2 row sealed bearing from Old BRit's is thicker than the factory 2 row so would prevent stub axle from moving that far off drum snout to give proper close plate clearance. My logic says I could fix if some lenght trimmed off the DS of stub axle then some more off the wheel side to accomadate the thicker bearing, so stub axle is a bit loose in snout. Any one got any idea of what's wrong with me? { only meant one way]

Re: '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

the one on the left is for the Featherbed (Atlas) swing arm and the one on the right is for Commando

Re: '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

Oh cool madass you'd know the spacer issues. Thanx for the axle ID, don't know how the odd ball one got here. How does your one piece axle provide for the drum/plate spacing? I've put some long hard mileage on Trixie last couple years with current set up and notice the wheel hub to drum - cushion gap was over 1/4" and cushions chewed up even on light handed use, so wonder it didn't melt or sieze. Chain must of kept drum where is should of be so slack take up at the hub side. Weird weird weird. Old Brits Fred says he has to relieve the stub axle to take the extra deep 2 row sealed bearing, but that would not affect the drum/plate stand off, that determined by the stub axle extension lenggh bearing on plate axle hole area. I've never read of this issue before nor of anyone altering the stud axle after proper one fitted.

Re: '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

why modify things to take the 5203 wider bearing, I have plenty of standard 4203 sealed bearings.
the only mods I would be doing to the axle bearing set up is fit sealed bearings and one piece axle, each to their own,

Re: '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

Hobot, man up and buy the one piece axle. I got mine last week, there is no way even you could break it.
It is a thing of beauty.
Installation isn't that difficult, just slacken the chain like any other bike.

Re: '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

Cant you find a decent Triumph back wheel ? .

Re: '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

My desire and discipline with Trixie is trying to stick strict as I can to the good book parts numbers. I got Peel to screw around with. This ain't exactly a dangerous issue as only discovered about 9,000 miles on closer examination but do think the drum loosseness to shift is accelerating chain and teeth wear. So far just played with it in hand but will have to mount in swing arm to figure out a brute force solution or intelligence to recognize some over sight. Part of my depressed surprise was Trixie rear end was so easy to assemble, just slip things in barely clearing but nil force vs Peel's needing levers and hammers/drifts to get it all between swing arm.

Deeper '72 rear stub axle missfit issue

Slowly I turned - step by step till dumbassxle mystery plot unexpectedly thickened up for me. I"d tapped the drum-hub spacer into the new wider 2 row then into the drum then mounted drum via sub axle+nut then ran in the long axle, for
THE BBISS, Blank Brit Iron Staring State...

I'd ass-umed the long axle should pass through the drum spacer/bearing, Nope it don't. I'd ass-umed the long axle screwed down to seat on the stub axle. Nope It don't. I'd ass-ummed the bulk of the long axle threads would end up inside the stub axle. NOT! There are no threads in the spacer/bearing so ass-ummed it had nothing to do with the crank down torque seating of long axle, WRONG Again - its the only thing being clamp seated on as long axle thread tightened.
There's more thicking the plot but no measures yet to post further mystery.

Even seen this view when tight enough to need a wrench for more...

Hobot perhaps the main axle is bottoming out in the stub axle before getting all the torque on the whole assembly once in the bike, especially if you have a missed matched stub to axle as identified by 'madass'.
I have one of his one piece axles in my project Bike # 2 , as much as I like the idea of a two piece that retains the drum, spocket and brake backing plate for wheel removal, with Bike #2 , I have modified the rear drum to be able to change sprockets quickly for different gearing, so the one piece is fine for this application, not like you are taking the wheel assembly on and off every 5 minutes!!!
This way i retain the Norton assembly without having to revert to an after market or different brand assembly and blank sprockets of all teeth count are available in steel or ali
His axle fits perfect and is strong.
Good luck
Your methods of R&D are good for us all!!!
Regards Mike

Oh Ugh John I thought I'd posted the correction to the above photo assembly Goof UP. Photo is NOT how it should or did assemble. IGNORE the photo it only shows a mere stupid issue that I'd put the brearing spacer on backwards and reason axle wouldn't slip through it freely is because the socket drift used to punch spacer out of the old bearing buggered the ID a tad. So two machining processes needed, one to clear the long axle path and 2 mill the drum bore bottom deeper to take the wider 2 row bearing >>>> in order ...

To Get Back To The Real Mystery* what locates the drum* in center of chain run and brake plate closeness and cush paddle seated fully in the wheel slots. Something was pushing the old bearing past the circlip [enough to knock circlip out of its groove [twice now] that allowed drum to slide on axle away from wheel and cush drive seating so rubbers ended up under the paddles instead of on the sides where I'd glued them. Custom non Norton is easy as pie path, keeping it factory is a lot harder and Trixie is testing me on it. Only damage I can detect so far is cushion get chewed up too fast even on easy throttle. Will report back after solution is found.