Cylinder removal...>

1973 850 Commando running Tri-Spark and original coils, 8300 miles. Problem is that it would smoke out of the
timing side cylinder at idle, no smoking under acceleration. After the ride the plug would invariably
be fouled, black & wet. I've pulled the head and had it checked out with dye & leakdown test, it checked
out with no problems. Next thing I'd like to do is check the rings. I've pulled the four through-bolts, removed
the three nuts up front and loosened the two in the back. I can't budge the cylinder. Any advice on how to
get it to move without damaging anything? I've picked up the CNW coil replacement module from Matt for
when it all goes back together. Thanks in advance!

Re-read this and last years posts on same problem.
It appears you are committed to a teardown. Good luck.
It is the old coils - ensure new plugleads are long enough to reach to both plugs to make problem-solving easier.
Ta.

ommief said:

1973 850 Commando......... Next thing I'd like to do is check the rings. I've pulled the four through-bolts, removed the three nuts up front and loosened the two in the back. I can't budge the cylinder. Any advice on how to get it to move without damaging anything? ....

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Well, the way I got my MKIII cylinder barrels off was by using a couple of 1 inch wide ratchet straps or "tie down" cargo straps. I wrapped one side or end around the bid upper backbone frame tube and the other side or end of the cargo strap got wrapped around the barrels, then copied this for the other side of the bike, so that I was pulling upwards equally. I then put a fair amount of tension on the jugs by tightening the ratchet mechanisms and winding up the straps. Then I got a piece of 1x1 wood and my biggest ball peen hammer, positioned the "wooden punch" at the base of the cylinders and gave it a couple of whacks on the left then the right. Luckily it "let go" and popped off. I'll wager that there are many other waysout there to do the same thing though. Cj

before the sky hook strap method might try running the base nuts up against fins with wood or plastic spacer cushions to protect the stud end threads from being scrubbed up to crack the sealant grip maybe with some rubber mallet shocks or might run pistons up close to head then stuff cord rags into plug hole to use kicker to push up too i"ve been able to break mine free with the nuts run up but must be careful as nut are at limit of last thread so can bugger it to get nuts started again>

Whack it fore and aft, port and starboard with a large RUBBER mallet with moderate force.

If that is too violent for you or the term "moderate force" is too nebulous, then:

With the pistons at BDC insert equal lengths of wood into the cylinders such that they protrude above deck, put a stout metal strap across the wood with holes drilled to match two cylinder bolt holes, inset cylinder bolts and start tightening, equally on both sides.

ommief said:

I've pulled the four through-bolts, removed the three nuts up front and loosened the two in the back. I can't budge the cylinder. Any advice on how to get it to move without damaging anything?

Click to expand...

Refit the cylinder head (leave out the push rods) and fasten down lightly with the five head bolts, then, using a hammer and block of wood, thump it as demonstrated, below (alternating between left and right exhaust ports):

I would avoid using base nuts and studs to jack against fins as even with soft packing the chance of damage is high.

toppy said:

I would avoid using base nuts and studs to jack against fins as even with soft packing the chance of damage is high.

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+1
CNN

Naw low risk to put some even up load with nuts before applying the other means > if even necessary after such low risk assist. If ya think you may hurt yours then follow your common sense and don't jack with it just to crack sealant grip. If I did this for a living [ugh] I'd rig up electro magnet on spine to almost touch 1/16" gap, flip switch - maybe whack it - done. How would late Mr. Hudson do it?

hobot said:

Naw low risk to put some even up load with nuts before applying the other means > if even necessary after such low risk assist. If ya think you may hurt yours then follow your common sense and don't jack with it just to crack sealant grip. If I did this for a living [ugh] I'd rig up electro magnet on spine to almost touch 1/16" gap, flip switch - maybe whack it - done. How would late Mr. Hudson do it?

Click to expand...

Steve,
I don't know what Hudson would do but, I for one have seen too many top fins cracked off because the P/O who on the wrenches forgot to loosen the (#1) center bolt. After cracking the one side by prying with a screwdriver he then proceeded to do the other side... hoping for a different result. When that cracked off he discovered that he did not have any leverage left for his screwdriver. He then looked for the fixing bolt still holding fast. :roll:
Tom
CNN

I just ripped mine apart yesterday. The long nuts at the back unwound against the fins and cracked the base loose. Mine wasn't that tight though.
Dereck