Custom Cable Kits

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Lineslinger

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I’m done with the standard issue throttle cables offered.
I want a proper fit without the slop, excess play, awkward rerouting etc. and yes I have experimented with all the various adjustments on the cable and the carburetors. Not satisfactory.
I’m looking for a supplier/kit that will allow the construction of an exact cable length without any compromise. I am good with what I have from carb to junction block.
I have performed a thorough search but wanted to run it by you guys first for a source or modification you have found reliable.

I need an accurate length from twist throttle to junction to block.
I have read previous threads regarding this but most are a bit older reference than 019’.
I am also curious regarding the soldering of the end “tabs”.
I am proficient at welding/soldering but question the strength of a soldered end tab. Will it really be reliable?
Thanks in advance from US.
1974 Commando 850.
 
I am also curious regarding the soldering of the end “tabs”.
I am proficient at welding/soldering but question the strength of a soldered end tab. Will it really be reliable?
After passing the cable through the barrel, the strands are spread and then soldered such that it is larger than the hole in the barrel and unable to pass back thru the hole.
 
Got it.
Would you know if the kits offered supply a barrel and ferrules compatible with the original Norton size, specifically the junction block and throttle?
 
Motion-Pro and Barnett will make you custom cables; not outrageously expensive either. Send them the length of the outer sheath, the free length you want for the inner (or operator), the ends you want to terminate with and where you want to locate the outer sheath adjuster.

There are also a number of companies that offer cable making kits and supplies for DIY.
 
I've seen 2 into 1 cable junction boxes that are different than stock. Also, do you still have the little adapter fitting as the cable enters the throttle grip? Both of these things can cause the stock cables to seem wrong.
 
The little adapter fitting.....no.....and that might be the cause of my angst....
I checked my photo records before restoration and cannot tell if there was one or I lost it and I don’t usually lose parts...even small ones.
You wouldn’t have a pic or a catalog reference would you?
Or is that what AN lists as the throttle cable stop.
 
It looks like a stepped cylinder with a slot on the side for the inner cable. Yes, easy for it to drop out. Not sure I can get at my bike for a pic of it but I may have one in the toolbox. Edit... Amal 16/011
Russ
 
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THROTTLE CABLE STOP (AMAL 16/011 / 99.0241)
A few different carb cable lengths, (with different length free lenth) here too:
https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-drawing/180/controls-and-control-cables
Custom Cable Kits
 
You can buy all the components from a marine or mower shop, outer , inner , end caps and solderable nipples and make your own.
That way you can choose a bigger diameter(stronger) inner to suit your needs.
We have an old school motorcycle shop in my city that still sells everything motorcycle orientated , not just a dedicated shop for brands.
They sell all the cable components so I buy lengths of each item and make my own.
Regards Mike
 
I have made my own cables for years. Most of the parts come from FLANDERS. The throttle adaptor mentioned above is $1.50. Buy the solder pot on ebay, I got one for $15 free shipping. Flanders is way to expensive for solder pots.
 
When I did my throttle cable I bought the outer and inner from Venhill. The brass nipples from Motion Pro, their barrels ends were a perfect fit for the twist grip and my lower linkage. The only thing I had to recycle was the connection where the cable meets the twist grip. MkIII’s have a different set up.
In my research it seems that galvanized cables are easier to solder than SS for the DYI’ers. In order to keep the solder from flowing past the nipple I gripped the steel inner right below the nipple with a set of forceps, set the nipple in place with a little extra cable sticking out, then used a pick to spread out and separate the wire strands. Placed a tiny bit of electrical flux on the wire strands and used a electric soldering gun and electrical solder. When everything cooled down I filed the excess solder and wire strands off. Worked great.
Personally I wouldn’t make my own brake or clutch cables, I just don’t feel I can get the nipples on as good as the manufacturer could. If it wasn’t for the fact I needed a custom throttle cable and wasn’t sure what I exactly needed I would have just bought one.
Pete
 
Re; " electric soldering gun and electrical solder."
Shock! Horror! Electrical solder is the WRONG solder to use!!!!!
 
Re; " electric soldering gun and electrical solder."
Shock! Horror! Electrical solder is the WRONG solder to use!!!!!


I was waiting for that:)

I have seen mixed opinions on what type of solder is best. What I found out was it should be OK with the galvanized steel cable but a No-No for SS. I tried the electrical solder because at the time it was all I had and I wanted to experiment. In my case it worked fine and has been in use for a year. I don’t know if I would trust it for brake and clutch applications.
Pete
 
Silver solder. You'll need the paste that it pairs with.

If you have a custom motorcycle builder in your area they should be able to make you whatever cable design you want; if you are planning to add this skill to your repertoire than buy the material and start practicing, it can be a lot of satisfying fun.
 
I used to make my own cables, but I try and avoid it these days cos ‘life’s complicated enough’!
 
One part that I learned the hard way is that you need to use a solder pot when making cables...otherwise the solder wicks up the cable, makes it brittle, and cable life is short.
I improvised with a black iron pipe cap (secured for safety, pot in vice grips, vice grips in vice), a propane torch, plumbers solder and flux. The solder stays molten in the pot for quite awhile so no need to rush the work. This guide from Flanders was quite helpful...

Custom Cable Kits
 
Thicker is not the way to go .
Go to a bicycle shop and buy good quality 1.1 mm gear shift cable and linear lined ( not spiral ) outer cable .
Make your own cables . Cheaper and better .[/QUOTE

Ludwig, I totally agree about the inner cable, however I do find those linear lined outers to be quite inflexible and and difficult to shorten neatly.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
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