Crankshaft seal

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Guido

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I am looking to source a crankshaft seal for my '74.
Has anyone found one other than going to the usual parts dealers?
Would a bearing supply house have this or is it a Witworth thing?
 
Forgive me asking, but why wd you not support the local parts dealers? Phil or Fred cd have it to you in 2 days or less, I'm sure.
 
Parts shamin', I get it! I got the day off today and thought if I could get the seal it would give me something to do. I was supposed to have surgery last week and it was cancelled.
Seems like nothing is going my way
 
Parts shamin', I get it! I got the day off today and thought if I could get the seal it would give me something to do. I was supposed to have surgery last week and it was cancelled.
Seems like nothing is going my way
I shd not be casting stones, done it myself.
Good luck w the surgery!
 
Mine leaks. Why I dont know. Why is yours leaking?
 
I always buy mine from bearing shops. The reason for this is that the original Norton seal has a metal rim and it doesn't always stay in place. Maybe the recess it sits in is worn. The ones from bearing shops have a rubber rim and are a tighter fit so they don't fall out on my engine.
 
I always put a bit of sealent around the outside edge of the seal never had one come out or leaked in 43 years.

Ashley
 
I called Phil @ FairSpares and talked to him about the seals. I just installed the CNW e-start kit which by the way is a life saver, and the kit came with a new seal which I replaced. I swear, the old one was hard as a rock.
I put in the crank sprocket and it bottomed out on the case and seal. I sent the sprocket back to Matt which he then ground the back side of the sprocket for more clearance which he says some engines are cast differently and might bottom out. I put the thing together and noticed oil leaking out the bottom of the primary case.
I either damaged the seal due to the sprocket bottoming out or as Phil suggest I may have damaged it from the key way slot as it may have sliced the lip due to the slot having sharp edges.
Phil has sent 2 seals. One with a rubber coating and the metal one. So this time I will check for sharp edges plus I will wrap some Teflon tape around the shaft to help protect it when I slide it on.
The new seal went on tight but I will use sealer this time.
 
Replace the crank seal each and every time the primary comes apart. Matter of course . And easy .
 
Steve Maney crank seals are very good , although he has just emailed me to say he is not shipping them overseas as postage is too high.
He will include them in the package if buying more comprehensive parts.
Regards Mike
 
All this crankshaft seal searching prompts me to ask if the crankcases have a proper reed valve ventilation device? If not, I suggest you get one of the seals made of unobtainium.
 
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Just pickd up a lot of 10 rubberized seals from a bloke in Holland, prior to that I was sourcing metric rubberized seals from O-rings and more, size is 30x45x5 I believe
 
If you have a local bearing supplier, pop in and give them a couple of bucks for their coffee tin - it will usually secure you what you are looking for!!!

Unfortunately, the cost to process something online and ship it out will make it a ten dollar deal :(


I think the imperial seals are the original, and are a better fit than what you will see with the metric ones.

Also, bear in mind the seal case can be bare metal (type b) or rubber covered (type c)

I use the following:
NAK
Type SB
Inside Diameter 1.188"
Outside Diameter 1.750"
Width 0.188"​

I don't like the rubberised ones, as I found I need to damage the rubber in order to fit properly.
Instead, I smear the outer with JB Weld and push it home after degreasing the case with isopropanol


Here is an example of what you should be looking for https://www.engineersmate.com/.../IMPERIAL-OIL-SEALS/P306140
 
I am using the XS650 reed type breather which has completely fixed my head weeping issue. I thought they would show up today. Maybe tomorrow.
 
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