Correct Tire Pressure for Avon RR's
- Thread starter Surfdog
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29 lb front, 32 lb rear is about universal standard in all our
fittable tyre sizes. Also same as 17" fatso tyres on corner crippled cycles.
Are these Avon tyres really rated to V speeds? Or just a teaser?
This fits my testing PSI, for smoother type surfaces
but I tend to lower PSI 1-2 #'s if going over rougher stuff a ways.
Ideally pressure should rise 10% when tires as hot as you get them,
yett who but crazy racers or hobot on Peel standard commuttes
can really depend on that method.
The really critical factor is pressure difference - way more
that total pressure as this difference screws with pilot fork
action and suspension-tyre aim reaction. Some tweaking
can be done to fit pilot comfort and steering style.
hobot
fittable tyre sizes. Also same as 17" fatso tyres on corner crippled cycles.
Are these Avon tyres really rated to V speeds? Or just a teaser?
This fits my testing PSI, for smoother type surfaces
but I tend to lower PSI 1-2 #'s if going over rougher stuff a ways.
Ideally pressure should rise 10% when tires as hot as you get them,
yett who but crazy racers or hobot on Peel standard commuttes
can really depend on that method.
The really critical factor is pressure difference - way more
that total pressure as this difference screws with pilot fork
action and suspension-tyre aim reaction. Some tweaking
can be done to fit pilot comfort and steering style.
hobot
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- Oct 19, 2005
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- 18,978
Dogged surfer,
To help keep both of us entertaining and not pushing up daisies
I'd HIGHLY Recommend some short fairly slow rides -
first letting some air out front to feel the sense of reversed
fork reactions, then air up and repeat on rear, down to
like half pressure, then both front and rear.
Couple moments and couple hundred yards, will imprint
the sense in your bones To Never Ever get surprised
by an insidious leak sneaking up or a full bang blow out almost
not matter the speed.
Most dangerous time is just before pulling to a stop, BEWARE!
Had full rear flat hit when passing truck over 90+ in order
to get to the 30 mph very sharp down hill turn before
he did, all was fine until slowed to 50's and began
a bit of lean when all hell broke loose and barely
made the turn then barely stayed up right going
3-4 mph on grass. Whewwoooo.
Last deer that jumped me in '07 hit while i took .5 sec to
glance at rear tire patch before an up hill curve going 75,
[I'd felt a slight wiggle that could be air gust or air leak]
Severe impact on my R foot and just clear blue sky
seen .5 sec later as I turned to see road, then bike landed
on road still upright and pulled to stop to see huge
doe's half head crushed in flopping in other lane.
Rode back to it, watching it thrash, then sad
at beautiful stupid creature wasted, then ANGER RAGE
this death signaled the end of my riding safely
no matter my caution, I whipped out my big knife
and yelled at the F****king deer while stabbing it
in brain stem, just as locals that knew me pulled
over to see a manic stabbing in murderous crazed rage.
They spread the tale to entertain the village I work in.
But hey no surprise throw down by stinking flat tire.
ho- ho hobot
To help keep both of us entertaining and not pushing up daisies
I'd HIGHLY Recommend some short fairly slow rides -
first letting some air out front to feel the sense of reversed
fork reactions, then air up and repeat on rear, down to
like half pressure, then both front and rear.
Couple moments and couple hundred yards, will imprint
the sense in your bones To Never Ever get surprised
by an insidious leak sneaking up or a full bang blow out almost
not matter the speed.
Most dangerous time is just before pulling to a stop, BEWARE!
Had full rear flat hit when passing truck over 90+ in order
to get to the 30 mph very sharp down hill turn before
he did, all was fine until slowed to 50's and began
a bit of lean when all hell broke loose and barely
made the turn then barely stayed up right going
3-4 mph on grass. Whewwoooo.
Last deer that jumped me in '07 hit while i took .5 sec to
glance at rear tire patch before an up hill curve going 75,
[I'd felt a slight wiggle that could be air gust or air leak]
Severe impact on my R foot and just clear blue sky
seen .5 sec later as I turned to see road, then bike landed
on road still upright and pulled to stop to see huge
doe's half head crushed in flopping in other lane.
Rode back to it, watching it thrash, then sad
at beautiful stupid creature wasted, then ANGER RAGE
this death signaled the end of my riding safely
no matter my caution, I whipped out my big knife
and yelled at the F****king deer while stabbing it
in brain stem, just as locals that knew me pulled
over to see a manic stabbing in murderous crazed rage.
They spread the tale to entertain the village I work in.
But hey no surprise throw down by stinking flat tire.
ho- ho hobot
Awesome.....
Man, probably what I woulda wanted to do, but.......
Straight out of a movie no doubt.
Thanks for the insight on tyres.
I'm still a kinda new rider of about 6 years now.
And the bikes are recreation vehicles not daily riders.
So all of your (and everyone elses) pointers are taken with great heed.
J.Dog
Man, probably what I woulda wanted to do, but.......
Straight out of a movie no doubt.
Thanks for the insight on tyres.
I'm still a kinda new rider of about 6 years now.
And the bikes are recreation vehicles not daily riders.
So all of your (and everyone elses) pointers are taken with great heed.
J.Dog
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
As new or unsure rider, not yet facing emergency crisis
OR
If wanting to embarrass to tears the most experienced racers
and bike stunters with your bike control >>>
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND test rides with reduced air pressure.
No track school or dirt bike course will train you better
or faster.
I've only ridden last 12 years, after 3 decades too big city scared
and out of that only about
half the time had a working bike, so guess what trained
me to take on elite bikes-pilots, low air states of crisis
plus THE Gravel terrors until I crashed enough to ignore
the standard wisdom of handling.
A tube tire gets a bit low and steering strangely then suddenly
can pull out the stem for full blow out, be prepared to
ride it out to ride again. If you know what is happening
then about anyone can ride out a flat tire either end.
If you don't know what's causing the slight upset > normal
reactions will fast hi side you before you know what happened.
hobot
OR
If wanting to embarrass to tears the most experienced racers
and bike stunters with your bike control >>>
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND test rides with reduced air pressure.
No track school or dirt bike course will train you better
or faster.
I've only ridden last 12 years, after 3 decades too big city scared
and out of that only about
half the time had a working bike, so guess what trained
me to take on elite bikes-pilots, low air states of crisis
plus THE Gravel terrors until I crashed enough to ignore
the standard wisdom of handling.
A tube tire gets a bit low and steering strangely then suddenly
can pull out the stem for full blow out, be prepared to
ride it out to ride again. If you know what is happening
then about anyone can ride out a flat tire either end.
If you don't know what's causing the slight upset > normal
reactions will fast hi side you before you know what happened.
hobot
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2008
- Messages
- 1,607
These tires (tyres) really are rated to 'V' speeds, and it means top sustained speed of 149 MPH, but they've added several ratings in excess of it.
When the 'V' rating came out, it meant able to withstand sustained speeds of 130+ MPH. Since then the standard has been revised. The new standards are as follows, with the top sustained speed rating listed
R 106 mph 170 km/h
S 112 mph 180 km/h
T 118 mph 190 km/h
U 124 mph 200 km/h
H 130 mph 210 km/h
V 149 mph 240 km/h
When Z-speed rated tires were first introduced, they were thought to reflect the highest tire speed rating that would ever be required, in excess of 240 km/h or 149 mph. While Z-speed rated tires are capable of speeds in excess of 149 mph, how far above 149 mph was not identified. That ultimately caused the automotive industry to add W- and Y-speed ratings to identify the tires that meet the needs of new vehicles that have extremely high top-speed capabilities.
W 168 mph 270 km/h
Y 186 mph 300 km/h
Usually, the W and Y ratings are listed in addition to Z, as in 180/55 ZR17 73W, where the 'W' at the end specifies that this 'Z'-rated tire is capable of 168mph sustained speeds.
I know, TMI :wink:
I default to 32F and 34R for all tires on all bikes unless better information is available.
Matt Rambow did suggest lower pressures for the Norton (running Bridgestone BT-45s) but with all due respect to Matt, after running at those levels for a while I've found I prefer the pressure at my favored "default" levels.
Still running the BT-45s, which are great tires, although thinking I may try Pirelli Sport Demons next. Just put them on another bike and am liking them a lot.
Then again, you could probably put the Pirelli name on any tire and improve my opinion of it without other change. I'm a Pirelli slut; it's just my nature.
Matt Rambow did suggest lower pressures for the Norton (running Bridgestone BT-45s) but with all due respect to Matt, after running at those levels for a while I've found I prefer the pressure at my favored "default" levels.
Still running the BT-45s, which are great tires, although thinking I may try Pirelli Sport Demons next. Just put them on another bike and am liking them a lot.
Then again, you could probably put the Pirelli name on any tire and improve my opinion of it without other change. I'm a Pirelli slut; it's just my nature.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Past 750 Peel sustained 130+ speeds for miles.
At top speed I think H rated rear tire expanded as tach dropped
but speed spiked up a few mph.
Next Peel will easy exceed that so my interest in 150+ tires.
Shaved and tubeless and hard aired increases speed heat
tolerance to who knows what.
Again I can not recommend enough some low air tire practice
for novice to expert. It will serve you well in many ways.
Just a parking lot near air station for a few minutes is
enough to get sense you need imprinted to the bones.
I'm thrilled there are a number of 18 & 19" V rated brands
to try. Otherwise as limited as regular un-tamed Cdo's are
about any tire if fine, the narrower lighter the better.
Its what I prefer on my factory Combat, plenty secure
for sensible thrills. Alas narrow rear on Cdo's is like
too small a wet tissue - just wears away too fast.
Too low air tires distort-squirm, too high they trip out easy.
Yet Best Peel ever felt on tarmac was 55 in rear 52 front.
Ice skater precise, but shook teeth to frame on THE Gravel ugh.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040112 ... 1179uicFMv
hobot
At top speed I think H rated rear tire expanded as tach dropped
but speed spiked up a few mph.
Next Peel will easy exceed that so my interest in 150+ tires.
Shaved and tubeless and hard aired increases speed heat
tolerance to who knows what.
Again I can not recommend enough some low air tire practice
for novice to expert. It will serve you well in many ways.
Just a parking lot near air station for a few minutes is
enough to get sense you need imprinted to the bones.
I'm thrilled there are a number of 18 & 19" V rated brands
to try. Otherwise as limited as regular un-tamed Cdo's are
about any tire if fine, the narrower lighter the better.
Its what I prefer on my factory Combat, plenty secure
for sensible thrills. Alas narrow rear on Cdo's is like
too small a wet tissue - just wears away too fast.
Too low air tires distort-squirm, too high they trip out easy.
Yet Best Peel ever felt on tarmac was 55 in rear 52 front.
Ice skater precise, but shook teeth to frame on THE Gravel ugh.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1040112 ... 1179uicFMv
hobot
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