Commando front end spring adjustment

Hi All,
I have two question:

1. When putting the front end back together how much do you tighten the nut on top of the spring?

2. I plan to reuse the two steel springs, one has lite rust on it, is there a good reason to upgrade on a road use bike?

Thanks,

The rod is 3/8 unf ...under my small test the rod can be stretched 1/2 mm with a "good" pull...so avoid over tightening. i have seen them snapped..a firm "nip" is only required.
Rust ? if i ts light the spring will be OK..the design of a Norton spring is excellent..But i have found they "snake" up on high compression . this forces the "snakes" back and belly to rub quite hard on the stanchion inner ...wih a flat appearing after a high milage.
Take my tip..Change your oil yearly...it gets water and ground spring steel mixed with the fluid ...not the best mixture :!:

I think perhaps what he's actually asking is how far the lock nuts need to be screwed onto the damper rods in order to set the initial spring preload?
In which case, I my opinion, the lock nuts need to be screwed down to the ends of the damper rod threads, the cap bolts screwed on as far as they will go and then the parts are locked together.

That's the way I've always done them LAB.

There is so little threads on top of damper rod that its impossible to over tighten factory springs, so I threaded mine another 1/2" to get some effective pre-load sag adjustment for rough surfaces. With even stronger after market springs and Al damper rod threaded further to screw down on springs Ms Peel somehow lucked out not to snap the rod but of course no one else should expect to get away with this.

If preloading the spring is good thing and the threaded end is short would there be any advantage to use two fork locating bushings?

cbacejr said:

If preloading the spring is good thing and the threaded end is short would there be any advantage to use two fork locating bushings?

Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend it, as the springs are almost at the point of becoming coil-bound when the forks reach full compression, as it is.

If ya screw down on Roadholder springs or put spacers in to compress spring more, sag height remains the same until damper rod is pulled more from inside damper tube until damper valve hits underside of damper cap so nothing much to gain but easier top out clank messing with factory damper nuts range of screw down, > unless fiting longer damper rod and spring section to compensate or more commonly - just longer top bushes to take up top out spring space slack to retain 4" travel limits. About all ya can do with factory fork items is try different oil grades compromise. Many complaint about off the shelf progressive springs [same as factory length] diving too much on brakes or bottoming easier.

The best improvement I had with my Commando forks was when I put thicker oil in. (30 grade) I think the original recommendation was sae 20 but I used a dedicated fork oil for many years and was never very happy with the results then for some reason when doing a routine change of oil I tried sae 30 and found them to be so much better!