Commando fork

I am preparing a MK2 fork to go on my Interceptor II (Stock Atlas/Commando fork) to be able to have a disc. I dismanteled it and checked everything, found some new SS slider extension/spy holder and I am starting to put it together but I cant remember the best way to install the damper/spring unit: screw it first on the bottom of the slider or at the top cap (not screwing the cap on the tube yet).
BTW: do I put the caliper MK2 or MK3 way? B
Thks
Philippe

glue sealing washer on end of damper tube then screw on the damper cap with rod installed then put the works down the slider and start the bolt then if the seal don't grip enough to nip up add as much damper rod force as can to help resist tube from turning. A blap with air impact can also work if careful. I've grabbed em with long pliers but that messes the tube threads and then still leaves cap at poor advantage reach to nip down well.

Them there locking rings for the wheel bearing or whatever it is are left or right handed , so as to be self tightening
or self loosening . If you get the drift .You could spend many sleepless hours wondering if itd fall off .LH have LH stampeds there.
SO THEY SAY .

Cakliper runs cleaner at the front, and cooler . was said to lessten wobble , hands off .Though aft is C.G. closer to steering axis .

If youre setting the R.E, lap record in the I.o.M. , caliper forward . :mrgreen:

But.... what about the 'Bacon Slicers'? L.O.L.

RH brake bearing lock ring tightens with normal CW torque while LH mounted has reversed LH threads. I'll have to experiment someday on sense of handling with a mass ahead of Peel sliders instead of mass behind the slider.

That calipers fore or aft mounted question is a good one, I note Nortons were sold with either location, Is anyone who has owned both able to relate any difference?
In the `70s it seemed that fashion/racing usage meant they all went aft mounted, I`ll bet Rossi would try front style if he thought it would help..

Today was one of these day where I found the answer to many questions:

1) why British bikes had no hope once Jap bikes were here: almost a day to change fork on my RE (Commando fork)??? Getting the tubes out with 40 years of grim/rust in the triple trees in where the conical top of the tubes is almost welded??
1 hour each gaiter, new, to go on the sliders extensions and on the headlamp ears??? Having done the same on a Kawie not long ago took 2 hours!

2) I was always wondering why on every pic/film done in Brit factories you always see the bike been built with the tubes in the triple trees and then the sliders put on there... A lot easier than holding a complete fork leg collapsing (as the cap cannot go on beforehand ) and trying to get it through the headlamp ears, aligning the trees etc!

3) why you should always take the tach and speedo off first: banging on the fork tubes can have bad results on the glass!!!

As they say: "I am too old for this!" (specially on my fours looking for the fallen balls while trying to grease them...)




Maybe the wheel can go manana after a visit at Raber's for a couple of more parts!!

i just did this job on mine last night and had similar problems. Took me about 2 hours to get the stanchions in the trees. I tried a wedge in the lower tree, cleaning and lubing all surfaces, twisting....finally i ended up doing some things with a rubber mallet that i'm not proud of. STILL took a while, but they're in and together now. For the record I screwed the damper assembly to the slider first.

I have taken to heating the yokes if the plain forceful methods fail to satisfy. If rubber mallet able to do it then not all that stuck up, which implies a 3 lb sledge splinting hard wood block impacting shocks. It takes some time for the thermal expansion to creep open but not hot enough to blister paint. As others have found servicing the lower forks is easier it the stanchions left in yokes. A real pisser that the current rubber gaiters and/or the extra ozone down low and less up high let oxygen species decay them over about 2 yr in my Trixie so must work up will power to replace this fall.

My tubes are REALLY stuck in the yokes so next attempt will be with judicious heat ,wood and 5 lb. sledge and timed swearing.

ATF+acetone paint eater or wax, then a number of heat cycles and pounding with patience on mostly screwed in caps gritting teeth short of cracking. Steel wedges in the yoke gaps too. Could fill the stanchion with dry ice to shrink them like cold water does us guys too. Hard wood block like oak or such not mere pine or guess what gives up first.

A decent quality heat gun, esp one with a reducer nose on it, is a
most useful weapon in the war against a brit bike. Have found that
a lot of jobs, bearing removal and refitting, stanchion withdrawl etc
are much easier.
I also own a 3 pound cast lead hammer. Use it all the time.

Finally finished... Gaiters are a pain even installed, but the fork does not leak (so far!), the brake line almost bled itself. Of course the new battery is dead.
Next (year??) I'll work on installing the electronic ignition...

If the SS brake line is not clear tube protected you've put a filing device against the slider. I did Peel like yours w/o the stand pipe but had to wrap protection around it.

Coming along well . Just as well its not a Russian Bike . Let alone nine of them . Youd be there another eight months . :wink:

Off topic I know but,rather a robust looking oil cooler on them Enfields. Wouldnt look too out of place on a Norton?