Commando 961 cutting out

Andrew

Joined
Jun 1, 2019
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7
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Hi everyone.Bought a 961 cafe racer recently.It's a 2019 plate but most likely 2018 build date.At any given time,on an open throttle, it just cuts out and comes to a halt with fuel pump still running.Lights on etc.Turn the bike off and back on at the ignition or kill switch and it starts again.Apart from one occasion when it had blown a 10 amp fuse in the ignition circuit. It's not throwing any fault codes so it's proving difficult to diagnose by the dealer.We all know how tricky it is to find a fault which doesn't always present itself.I believe the cam (or crank?) sensor was replaced but the problem still persists.Could it be the throttle position sensor,map sensor,ecu or a loom fault perhaps?
Thanks.Andrew
 
Hi Andrew, 2018 Sport, mine would tickover but would cut out as soon as the throttle was opened, new map sensor sorted it. Which dealer did you buy from? I'm just south of Leeds by the way. Pete
 
Peter Smith said:
Hi Andrew, 2018 Sport, mine would tickover but would cut out as soon as the throttle was opened, new map sensor sorted it. Which dealer did you buy from? I'm just south of Leeds by the way. Pete
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Hi Peter. Got mine from Teasdales.Can't fault them and known Andy for years.Perhaps you got yours from the same place then if you're at Leeds? Mine ticks over and revs fine but just cuts out under acceleration.
 
Yes, Teasdales, I can't fault them either. Mine actually had four map sensors fitted, a bad batch apparently.
Teasdales picked the bike up every time as I couldn't ride it back. Mine's a year old now booked in for it's second service. If you've not had your first service and re-map yet, you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.
 
Andrew,
If you search through the forum you will find many different issues with various sensors causing cut out/non start/stall at stop etc. It could be something as simple as a poor connection or major such as ECU knackered. One or two have found substandard fuses - hairline crack etc. Rather than you replace everything, as it is new it is probably best to get Teasdales to sort or return to Donington for them to sort under warranty - it is a pain not to have it to ride but in the long term you will hopefully have a trouble free bike.
John
 
Peter Smith said:
Yes, Teasdales, I can't fault them either. Mine actually had four map sensors fitted, a bad batch apparently.
Teasdales picked the bike up every time as I couldn't ride it back. Mine's a year old now booked in for it's second service. If you've not had your first service and re-map yet, you'll be amazed at the difference it makes.
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Yes i've had the first service and remap and it's got soul like nothing else out there.Sounds like mine has a different fault
 
Eljahara said:
Andrew,
If you search through the forum you will find many different issues with various sensors causing cut out/non start/stall at stop etc. It could be something as simple as a poor connection or major such as ECU knackered. One or two have found substandard fuses - hairline crack etc. Rather than you replace everything, as it is new it is probably best to get Teasdales to sort or return to Donington for them to sort under warranty - it is a pain not to have it to ride but in the long term you will hopefully have a trouble free bike.
John
Click to expand...
Thanks John. Yes I certainly won't be tinkering with it,being brand new etc.This will be the third attempt to rectify it though,so my future Norton ownership hangs in the balance at the moment.It is a great experience to ride when it's on form,admittedly.
 
May be faulty kill switch, tilt switch or side stand switch ???
All of them would cut out the engine if in action...
 
As I am thinking, tilt sensor could be most probable as you said cut out is during acceleration which could influence the tilt sensor if not working correctly!
 
Raphi said:
As I am thinking, tilt sensor could be most probable as you said cut out is during acceleration which could influence the tilt sensor if not working correctly!
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Raphi
The tilt switch would cut the fuel pump - it is designed to cut the bike in the event of a “fall over” and having the fuel pump still working would be somewhat hazardous.
Andrew says fuel pump still going so prob something else.
John
 
Eljahara said:
Raphi
The tilt switch would cut the fuel pump - it is designed to cut the bike in the event of a “fall over” and having the fuel pump still working would be somewhat hazardous.
Andrew says fuel pump still going so prob something else.
John
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Thanks for all your input.I think they're going to check a fuse fitting somewhere under the fuel tank (Main fuse perhaps? Not sure?) It does feel like a momentary break in the circuit keeps happening.I'm not sure that would cause the 10amp fuse to blow in the ignition circuit though.This only happenend once but can't really be ignored since it takes a fairly major short to melt one of those. My guess is potentially a loom fault but will wait and see what they find. Frustratingly it's not throwing any fault codes
 
May I introduce you to the reliability bathtub curve;

With a new and relatively complex piece of equipment (especially hand assembled) parts will fail as soon as they start being used because they had a problem when fitted (relays and starter in my case). Then you get a few 'assembly' issues. This is where you get really p*** off because this expensive toy you just got is starting to lose its shine and inconvenience you and H*ndas start to make sense.

Once these issues are sorted it then settles down and reliability is good and you can enjoy ownership. This is where I am at the moment and can assume that when I roll my 7600 mile 2017 CR out of the garage it will get me to work.

Once components start to get to the end of their working life then the failures start to go up again hence the 'bathtub' failure curve.

It depends on your outlook on these things but I am enjoying using my bike so much the memories of sitting by the roadside waiting for non-existent AA vans are consigned to my mental dustbin. I hope you manage to get this sorted properly - I find that if you have a bit of respect when you deal with the guys at the factory they are very helpful and friendly and will go out of their way for you.

Keep us posted
Clive
 
Clive said:
May I introduce you to the reliability bathtub curve;

With a new and relatively complex piece of equipment (especially hand assembled) parts will fail as soon as they start being used because they had a problem when fitted (relays and starter in my case). Then you get a few 'assembly' issues. This is where you get really p*** off because this expensive toy you just got is starting to lose its shine and inconvenience you and H*ndas start to make sense.

Once these issues are sorted it then settles down and reliability is good and you can enjoy ownership. This is where I am at the moment and can assume that when I roll my 7600 mile 2017 CR out of the garage it will get me to work.

Once components start to get to the end of their working life then the failures start to go up again hence the 'bathtub' failure curve.

It depends on your outlook on these things but I am enjoying using my bike so much the memories of sitting by the roadside waiting for non-existent AA vans are consigned to my mental dustbin. I hope you manage to get this sorted properly - I find that if you have a bit of respect when you deal with the guys at the factory they are very helpful and friendly and will go out of their way for you.

Keep us posted
Clive
Click to expand...
All very true Clive. Early D*catis also had gremlins but perversely people still bought them in droves, and made them the company they are now.Quirks and idiosyncrasies are often appealing to certain people (me included).Others buy the H*nda....
Whatever it is on my bike,it seems to be something which goes to ground,completely kills the ignition,and doesn't come right until the circuit is broken and re-made.Either using the kill switch or ignition switch. On reflection it's probably not a fuse making and breaking contact,otherwise presumably it would cough and splutter at least.
At the end of the day it's the dealer's problem to deal with but i'll certainly keep you posted.
 
Quick update. The lads have pulled out all the stops and done me proud,along with whoever deals with warranty issues at Norton. The ecu was at fault it seems. Appears to be working fine now,fingers crossed.
Only downside is the fuelling is not as good with the new ecu.Seems hesitant and spluttery if you hold a steady throttle at 3000 to 4000rpm. Does anyone know if they only offer one generic map for the de cat/open pipes combination? Or perhaps Norton do a few?
 
Lord knows...I'm hanging in there. Only scary part is no dealerships within 2800 miles and the two that are left are of limited support and parts. Luckily I've found a good independent mechanic who has a passion for Brit Iron. (guess he's a nut too) So, he likes diving into the new old bike. Suits me fine. He's changed my bitter life into one that can ride at least a little more confidently and finally enjoy this spectacular beast. For now...……..
 
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