Clutch spring cir clip help

Ok, I give!

What is the "trick" to getting the @$^%&%##%^&I(** clutch spring cir clip in?

*It's probably a simple technique, but if you have an ez way to get it in, please enlighten me.

Thanks in advance,


Sky

The circlip should go back relatively easily-so it sounds as if something is wrong?

Maybe the spring hasn't been compressed by the correct amount or the clutch plate stack height is wrong?

Will the circlip fit the groove easily without the spring in position?

Have you fitted any new clutch parts (clutch plates etc.)?

I always feed the inside end of the clip into the groove and with a screw driver blade in the slot on the end, pull it toward the center and use my free hand to curl it into the groove. I then take the screwdriver and tap the circlip to make sure it seats into the groove.

Make sure your diaphragm spring is deep enough in the spring compressor that it isn't preventing you from getting the clip into the groove.

You have the diaphragm sping compressor tool, right? The circlip is easily worked in with just fingertips, no tools, pull it apart, start one end in, work it around.

1. Adjust the clutch tool to cup the diaphram out a little.

2. As mentioned, if new parts(friction etc.) check pack height. It maybe a bit too high.

Yes to all of the above for getting the gddomn snofafbicht circlip into place . Most important the circlip must be NEW ! Used circlips must be sold by weight to the local scrap metal dealer. Because they are cheap and worth a laugh by the metal dealer or he will call the police and have you taken away under The Mental Health Act.

There seems to be a sweet spot as far as how much you have leaned on the compressor too much or too little can make a difference, especially if you've stacked the clutch for a lighter pull. Try easing the compressor a little past flat then tighten it up while checking for room. What have you got as far as the kind of plates and how many? You've probably already seen this, but have you got that kind of clearance in the picture?

http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_clutch_info.html

Ok, I got the clip in. It is a little more trial and error as far as how much to compress the spring. Threading the clip is a matter of tension placement whilst you wind. No big deal once I had the correct compression. It works very smooth. I did replace all the clutch parts except the housing. I am also using the CNW/Jim Comstock hydraulic clutch. It seems to be real smooth and very little effort to pull in the clutch lever. The wiring harness is next and the bike will be done.

Thanks for all the tips here. Really great response time and knowledge base here. I can't say enough thanks.

best,

Sky


*My first youtube video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2DxpBsgkbo

I am also using the CNW/Jim Comstock hydraulic clutch. It seems to be real smooth and very little effort to pull in the clutch lever.

Click to expand...

I too purchased and installed the CNW hydraulic clutch, last fall in fact.

What I have found is that because there is no cable, one does loose the sense of elasticity or fine motor control over the engaging and disengaging of the plates by going hydraulic.

This is no means a criticism, but an observation, because I flat love the clean and sure hydraulic operation.

What I will tell you is that up shifting and finding neutral are delightful, be aware that down shifting from higher rpm can be empathic, as in the plates plates open right away and then close right away, and so you may experience a quick clunk as their is no "feathering" sensation. i have learned to be more gentle and down shift at a lower rpm, and now
keep my down shifts to under 4000rpm. Again, it made no sense anyway to be ripping along at say 5000rpm and then cleverly down shift to slow down rather than just ease off the throttle a bit/