I wanted to clean off the clutch plates on my newly acquired dreer commando but have been unable to remove the clutch pushrod adjuster and nut from the clutch centre in order to screw in the compressor tool. I have used a long ring spanner and jolted it with a hammer, used WD40 and even heated it with a propane torch. The bike is in gear with back wheel locked and all that happens is the clutch plates turn in the basket. Has anyone else had this problem and any suggestions?
clutch pushrod adjuster nut won't loosen
- Thread starter edward
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Hm, I've similar signs and symptoms when the nut on the RH end of main shaft backed off some so gave slack so that the spring couldn't hold plates together strongly. Air impact wrench inertia might get er off but still mystery why plates spin as normally adjuster nut is easy task. Ugh, another similar situation occurred following manual for 70 lb ft torque on the center nut that folded over the locator circlip at behind clutch so lost the back up to snug plates up. 45 lb ft is more like tops to use. Such a simple machine I was told, what could go wrong to stump ya...
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2010
- Messages
- 300
+1 the air impact wrench is your friend
I have a 1974 850 Commando with a clutch problem, despite new plates and cable (greased), the clutch will not adjust properly. (The clutch center screwed in until contact, then backed off 1/2 to a full turn). Actually, when attempting to adjust the clutch, the opposite of what I expect happens; as I screw in the knurled wheel at the clutch lever (to tighten the cable), the clutch takes longer to engage, as I loosen the cable, the sooner the clutch engages. When riding, I find myself 'digging for gears'. Anybody got any ideas as to what I have backwards here? Thanks for any assist on this one.
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2009
- Messages
- 11,540
DRSkeens said:
Check the actuator arm in the tranny first. Everything working good there?
Are you making sure the cable is slack before adjusting the clutch center?
DogT
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2009
- Messages
- 7,393
Do the adjustment 'by the book'. Not by only adjusting the clutch adjuster. It all interacts and needs to be set right from the cables on down through the release lever. It's in the riders handbook. If it still doesn't work, you need to check your clutch pack height. You can search for that and read to your hearts content. Sometimes PO have the diaphragm over center and things will never work right then.
Dave
69S
Dave
69S
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,778
DRSkeens said:
Make sure the cable is fully slackened off before attempting pushrod adjustment, also only back off by 1/4 - 1/2 a turn.
DRSkeens said:
If your description is accurate, then what is happening sounds normal, as slackening the cable will cause the clutch to engage sooner, and tightening the cable will do the opposite.
As I peer through the hole on the gearbox cover the actuator arm appears to be in the upright position (I've moved it up and down with a screw driver), and yes, the clutch cable is the first thing I loosen prior to starting the adjustment process. The clutch lever housing is loose due to years of use, but I can't see that being much of an issue. It appears something is backwards (loosen knurled wheel, earlier clutch activation, and vice versa), but I have no idea where to look.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 20,778
DRSkeens said:
I'm not sure I understand what you mean by "upright position"?
DRSkeens said:
I don't understand your thinking on this? If the cable is slackened then it is logical that the clutch will engage earlier when the handlebar lever is released.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2005
- Messages
- 18,978
Just because cable moves the crooked lever and its still vertical don't mean the pivot ball is still in the valley of the crooked lever for effective clutch action. Its possible to replace ball in the crook after cable removed but very tedious with probes and desire, if in fact its an issue of course.
- Status
