Cleaning oil system after engine failure

Based on this diagram when the connecting rod disintegrated the smaller bits would have been pulled into the scavenge side of the oil pump, then to the filter and up to the tank. Is there any way debris could have got to the head oiling passages? Or even to the tank? The line to the filter needs to be pulled and checked but is that?

Every part, reservoir or gallery that supplies, returns or needs oil, needs to thoroughly cleaned, the oil pump should be replaced.

The crank should be split, examined and spotlessly cleaned, before and after you have it reground. The head needs to have it's rocker spindles removed, same for valves; the springs can hide destructive particles.

The oil tank should be removed and cleaned. Bearings should get binned. Cam and followers examined carefully.

The process isn't pleasant or inexpensive. The last time I blew up an engine I was so disgusted with myself I didn't even look at it for over a year; I had no one to blame, but myself. Not saying that anyone else's blown engine was the their fault.

Anyone who goes through this drama has my sympathy, except the cheap bastards that rebuild light bulbs...

Best wishes brother

A 20 ltr drum of kero is your best friend, any rebuilds I do that had something fail I have a 1/2 drum I fill with kero and let all parts soak, but I also do this when rebuilding motors, the cleaner you get all parts the better, sometimes parts get soaking for a few days and pull the parts out when needed with a good blow out with compressed air, little parts I sit in tin can with drain holes in the bottom, crank cases and cranks will sit in the kero for a few days at the time, mu Dommie head was in the drum of kero for a month or two and when I pulled it out it like a new head.
I am building a old Shovel Head at the moment for my uncle the first thing I brought was a new drum of kero, even my Land Rove hubs get a good soaking when I am repacking the wheel bearings, a drum of kero is my best mate when cleaning parts.

Ashley

The only thing that will be initially salvageable from the blown motor is the head. If the oil filter did it's job then the only place the contaminated oil could have got to the head is past the lifters, right?

I'm not worried about the rest of the engine, it will be completely disassembled, cleaned and hopefully fixed.

Head over here to see the carnage:

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/heart-transplant.25880/page-13#post-406910

Small particles will have gotten through the filter. You’ll have something resembling a fine gloopy grinding paste in the bottom of your tank.

As mentioned above. Clean everything.

Blew an XLCR in '80. Pistons came out mufflers as silver granules, couple valves could not be found. Everything else checked good though, but clean up took forever. You have real problems at a glance. Hope the pain$ remain reasonable.

jbruney said:

You have real problems at a glance.

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That might be an understatement.

You could use that stuff the car mechanics use when they replace the airconditioning pump which has disintegrated on your car.

You sure thats not a boat anchor now? Curious what the repair cost is as opposed purchasing a "short block" offering.
I blew up a 68' Ford 427 FE side oiler and was going to overhaul it until I really got into the guts of it and found a damaged bearing girdle. That was the end of that block.

I was hoping to preserve a bit of optimism. At least you're not having pieces picked out of your bod and I hope some of it can be salvaged.
I'd pick up a magna-flux kit and check some things prior to going for more extensive NDT testing. No sense spending $$$ to check known scrap metal.

If its damage beyond repair just hang it up on the wall of shame and start a fresh and get another motor to rebuild, mite be cheaper that way.

Ashley

ashman said:

If its damage beyond repair just hang it up on the wall of shame and start a fresh and get another motor to rebuild, mite be cheaper that way.

Ashley

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I’ve already got another motor but it’s bottom end was the most usable. I’ll use the head off the blown motor and still hope to use the barrel too but need to do something about the crack.

All good the head should be fine just pull the valves and dump the head in a drum of kero for a few days will get rid of any problems as for the barrels it all depends on the damage to the bores but they can be fixed and do the same with the barrels soak for a few day in the drum of kero, anyway good luck with it which ever way you go.

Ashley