Cleaning is dangerous

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Talk about a slippery slope. @comnoz is redoing the barrel and the head will need to be done next. So you can't put those refreshed parts on just any case. And you can't put the ancillary parts on a clean case. And so on...

The good news is the parts look great. The bad news is that the grease and dirt hide things that you need to now address.



Before




(For the last time the mark by the mounting hole is a casting mark!)

But...




Just smear it with some JB Weld? Throw it away and get another one? Get it welded up and re-machined?
 
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No JB, but welding is a consideration if done well. Ensure crack ends are drilled first or they'll probably radiate outwards and bigger problem arises.
 

robs ss

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I welded one a while ago to have it fit a different engine.
Preparation is the key. Needs about 6 - 8 heating cycles in the oven - wiping away the oil that sweats out each time,
I was amazed at how much oil came out of the porous casting.
Then the welder needs an assistant with rag and alcohol to wipe oil away between striking arcs.
It does work though.
Cheers
Rob
 

DogT

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All those parts look vaguely familiar for some reason. Good luck with it.
 
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The inner cover supports the alternator stator and not much else. What impact will a crack at one of the holes have?
 
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The contamination is a major issue with the Al. All cast metals soak up everything. I wish you good fortune in the war to come.
It would probably run three lifetimes as is since it's a dry primary...maybe more. Casting are notorious for that bad habit anyway.
Not my business, but perhaps you should clean less. Clean less find less. Ignorance is bliss...just kidding on that part.
 

grandpaul

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I'd say it's not a significant issue as long as you smear some of the liquid type JB-Weld product in it, then shim it properly and snug it all down correctly.

If I were to take it to the guy that has been doing all my aluminum welding for 20 years, he'd probably charge me $25 - $30. Not worth it to ME, but I'd leave the decision to the client if it wasn't my bike. JB Weld is only $7.
 

baz

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If it was mine i,d weld it
But then I'm a welder by trade, one thing I would say is if you JB weld it
Don't later on take it too a welder to repair, it's really hard to get a decent weld because you can't always get all of the glue out
 

concours

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If it was mine i,d weld it
But then I'm a welder by trade, one thing I would say is if you JB weld it
Don't later on take it too a welder to repair, it's really hard to get a decent weld because you can't always get all of the glue out
Likewise.
But all too often welding is viewed by laymen as a stopgap/bandaid/less than proper repair. So I keep my thoughts in a lot. :cool:
 

baz

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Likewise.
But all too often welding is viewed by laymen as a stopgap/bandaid/less than proper repair. So I keep my thoughts in a lot. :cool:
Ha ha yeah I know what you mean
You obviously have had stuff brought to you to be welded covered in road dirt or chain lube or worse (jb weld) etc
 
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By the time you get it welded and machines back flat I could just find a nice clean one. For some reason I think it’s always been like that. I need to dig through my millions of posts to check.
 
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I didn't really want to jaw jack much but I'd of just let it be and kept watch for leaks in that area.
 
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I welded one a while ago to have it fit a different engine.
Preparation is the key. Needs about 6 - 8 heating cycles in the oven - wiping away the oil that sweats out each time,
I was amazed at how much oil came out of the porous casting.
Then the welder needs an assistant with rag and alcohol to wipe oil away between striking arcs.
It does work though.
Cheers
Rob
All that effort, just laser weld it, no distortion, the oil vapourises so no prep needed. Plenty of cracked heads have now been done in the UK over the past couple of years and have no problems so the laser welding works a treat.
 

Time Warp

.......back to the 70's.
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The inner cover is thin in that area and will not take to much stress from not being shimmed to avoid that.
Put a heavy steel washer on the inside to brace it, maybe a longer fastener and be done with it, its a 'keeping it real build right ?.
If you find a good one for $20 go that way.....

What would I do, throw it in the pile and go get a good one off the shelf of spares... even as a welder I wouldn't bother with the time of a repair, they are plentiful to buy in good used condition. (If you want one that hasn't been eaten by the chain that is a little harder to find)
 
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Did you have to say that Time Warp? Mine had the guard chewed off from a tossed drive chain when bought, and now it's got me thinking of it again.
This topic has already got my swing arm off....now this...Will it ever end?
Well, I'm retired anyway so need something to do other than ride it. Right?
 

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