Chain

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andychain

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Jul 1, 2013
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I have been getting requests for help from several countries regarding Commando chain.

I will try to explain the various options.

The base chain on all Commandos is 10B-1. This a a British Standard chain and should not
be confused with 530.

Depending on the number of teeth on the front sprocket they can have 98,99 or 100 links.
Where there are 99 there has to be a crank link fitted, and not fitted with 2 connecting links
but riveted the right way round into the chain (yes there is a wrong way). The big problem with
530 and O ring chain is that there are no crank links made and the chains are also wider than the
original chain which could lead to fouling.

The crank link is important as it is difficult if not impossible to get the right adjustment
without it.

On older Nortons there are even crank links in the primary and rear as on the 650SS.

Hope this helps

Andy
 
Hi Andy, is the "crank link" what some of us laymen would call a half link? Can you illustrate the proper orientation? Thanks!
 
If I was clever enough to post photo I would.

It is not hard the bent section of the crank link, or half link, should be riveted into the chain
leaving the "normal" inner link for joining. Beware single crank links with one roller, 2 bent
plates and a pin with a split pin or even a bolt.

Look on any chain site they are called many things such as double crank link and double
offset link.

Basically with the plate on a connecting link being a slide fit over time, with wear, it can
ride up the slope of the bent plate plate and flick the clip off. I have seen it happen so best
to put lock wire round the clip and plate. This satisfies scruttineers.

While on the subject please never use a new connecting link in an old chain. Just this morning
I had a client drop by with a "spreadeagled" connecting link. It had broken on an old primary and
luckily not cuased any lastng damage. It is wise however to change the clip every now and again.
It means throwing most of the connecting link away but it is still worth doing.

Andy
 
Chain
 
Last edited:
LAB

That sucker is fitted the wrong way, just break it out and spin it round.

Carefully take out the outer link, dont grind, and re-use it.

If it was fitted proffessionally have a word in his lughole.

Andy
 
andychain said:
LAB

That sucker is fitted the wrong way, just break it out and spin it round.

Carefully take out the outer link, dont grind, and re-use it.

If it was fitted proffessionally have a word in his lughole.

Andy
Click to expand...
Help me out here please Andy, what am I missing? If its the wrong way around in terms of direction of travel, surely you'd just turn the chain around? So I assume you must mean something else... but what??
 
Hello,

I am bit confused and not very familiar with the old British standards. I would appreciate an explanation about the difference between 10B-1 and 530.
I always use 530 and it fits perfectly.
Why does the need of a half link depend on the number of links ? To my understanding it depends on the sprockets you have installed.
I must honestly admit that I never mounted a half link ( and I hope I never need to), but it would be interesting to know how it has to be mounted and why.

Ralf
 
Andy, I think I understand what you're saying - that the 'waisted' part of the half-link section should be rivetted into the chain and not joined by a spring clip ?

I've run a 21t sprocket for years and bought numerous boxed 99 link Renold chains (both standard and 'Grand-Prix') and they have always been supplied as one piece with the cranked section at the end and a spring link in the packing.

What exactly are the possible consequences of putting the spring link through the narrow section ?
 
Can he not just turn the chain around , that it runs in the other direction ?
 
ludwig said:
Can he not just turn the chain around , that it runs in the other direction ?
Click to expand...

Apparently not, according to Andy, (I've just spoken to him on the phone) the (Renold) chain in the photo has the cranked link installed incorrectly.

I will leave Andy to explain.
 
I guess the purpose of a half link is to enable placement of the axle at precisely the stock wheelbase position? Otherwise, the distance of a half link is well within the range of adjustment, right?
 
Wrong.

Too short and it just wont fit, too long and you will be at the end of the adjustment
before the chain is even half worn.

Dont forget you may be fiddling with the gearbox so a chain will fit but it will throw
up issues elsewhere.

Crank links are generally not liked by chain companies becuase of the problems that can
ensue, like not being fitted correctly. Again it is a question of money. Get ashop to fit a
chain and the labour can often be more than the cost of the chain, hense the DIY approach.
I have fitted literally thousands of chains with no problems but then I do not charge.

The abundance of self fitting chain tools on the market bare testiment to that. All I have
ever used is are 2 hammers, one big and one small, and fetching up punch.

The biggest problem is a complete lack of knowledge regarding chain and the reason is
financial. I will never be rich but for those selling via bigger companies profit is king. A
prime example is boil in wax. Knowing mark ups, a dealer would have a tin of wax on the
shelf for sale at £40. I sell at £20 and folks still moan so the shops dont even bother to
stock it although it is readily available. It is easier to say "no longer made", which considering
the crank link theme is also applied by dealers to that item.

Andy
 
andychain said:
Wrong.

Too short and it just wont fit, too long and you will be at the end of the adjustment
before the chain is even half worn.

Dont forget you may be fiddling with the gearbox so a chain will fit but it will throw
up issues elsewhere.

Crank links are generally not liked by chain companies becuase of the problems that can
ensue, like not being fitted correctly. Again it is a question of money. Get ashop to fit a
chain and the labour can often be more than the cost of the chain, hense the DIY approach.
I have fitted literally thousands of chains with no problems but then I do not charge.

The abundance of self fitting chain tools on the market bare testiment to that. All I have
ever used is are 2 hammers, one big and one small, and fetching up punch.

The biggest problem is a complete lack of knowledge regarding chain and the reason is
financial. I will never be rich but for those selling via bigger companies profit is king. A
prime example is boil in wax. Knowing mark ups, a dealer would have a tin of wax on the
shelf for sale at £40. I sell at £20 and folks still moan so the shops dont even bother to
stock it although it is readily available. It is easier to say "no longer made", which considering
the crank link theme is also applied by dealers to that item.

Andy
Click to expand...
Thanks for that Andy, I read your post with some anticipation, hoping you would be answering the several posters who have asked what exactly was wrong with the half link in LABs photo. Will you please enlighten us?
 
It took half an hour on the phone, and too complicated for my simple typing.

I will try to post pics over the weekend which will explain fully.

Andy

Please trust me there is a right and a wrong way, not to bad when the chain is new but
bad when there is some wear in it.
 
xbacksideslider said:
I guess the purpose of a half link is to enable placement of the axle at precisely the stock wheelbase position? Otherwise, the distance of a half link is well within the range of adjustment, right?
Click to expand...



As I understand it, the addition of a half-link simply allows the chain's length to be altered by only one pitch instead of two.
 
andychain said:
It took half an hour on the phone, and too complicated for my simple typing.

I will try to post pics over the weekend which will explain fully.

Andy

Please trust me there is a right and a wrong way, not to bad when the chain is new but
bad when there is some wear in it.
Click to expand...
I do trust you Andy and I assume most others do. But unless you can tell us why it is bad, what it is that we need to avoid doing, and what it is that we should be doing, then your info is not of much benefit! Hopefully the pics will make it clear.
 
I guess the purpose of a half link is to enable placement of the axle at precisely the stock wheelbase position?
Click to expand...

good question

can you respond to this, Andy?

as an aside, can an average Commando owner tell the difference while riding if the wheelbase was an inch longer or shorter than the preferred standard position?
 
1up3down said:
I guess the purpose of a half link is to enable placement of the axle at precisely the stock wheelbase position?
Click to expand...

good question
Click to expand...


The chain with the half-link in my photo is the correct "107" link item to suit a particular application (1978 Triumph T140V fitted with "standard" 20F/47R sprockets).

A new 106 link chain in that application would be too short, and a 108 link chain would use up the available chain adjuster/slot range well before the chain was worn out.

A partially stretched 108 link chain could of course be shortened to 106 links but then there's a danger the chain could be allowed to wear far too much.
 
I had to put one of those half links in because I had a brand new drive chain and new triplex chain. Without the halflink, the drive chain was too tight. The chain should stretch slightly and I will eventually take it out but I'm glad I had it handy.
 
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