Cam Chain Replacement and Tensioning

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Tornado

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Well into my first dive into timing chest of my '74 850.
Had no success using a deadblow rubber hammer to release the cover but found razor blades tapped into the gasket edges at strategic locations made short work of it.

Used the AN intermediate shaft holding plate sourced from OldBritts and rear brake locked and in top gear, was able to release the cam nut using a deep 1" socket. Nut is too shallow for a spanner. Came loose with a good amount hump on an 18" breaker bar, thankfully not needing heat nor impact rattle gun. A three leg puller was able to get the cam sprocket off without much trouble. Evidence DPO had used a thread locker product on cam nut.

New chain (AN) put on as described in shop manual. I used this post to set tension:
https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/cam-chain-tension.13575/#post-192235

Basically using a socket ratchet on the cam nut to rotate cam anticlockwise to take valve spring loads off the top chain run, then set full up/down movement of top run at tightest area to between 1/8-3/16". This was the only statement I had come across mentioning a min-max slackness for the chain, something that makes much sense to use rather than just the max amount listed in my books.

Spent a good hour scraping off gasket and its hardened black sealant from DPO. I plan to just use Hylomar on new gasket.
Next comes the oil pump flatting. Though it has visible scoring on side plates these cannot be felt with fingernail so very minor.
 
Scrape off most of the gasket, then use a brass wire rotary brush in an electric drill to take back to clean alloy. Don't use force that you will gouge the alloy.
 
A suitable length of 1/2" aluminium bar stock (around 3" longI think) notched at both ends, and spanning the cam and intermediate sprockets will lock the cam and allow easy removal and torquing
 
A suitable length of 1/2" aluminium bar stock (around 3" longI think) notched at both ends, and spanning the cam and intermediate sprockets will lock the cam and allow easy removal and torquing
Nice method. But I got er done with the AN plate and rear brake locking.
 
Got the pump flatted and honed down to give some gear stiffness as per shop manual. New gasket and new cone rubber washer. Blue locktite on oil pump side plate bolts and pump mounting nuts to studs. New crank and cam shaft oil seals fitted. Protected new seal from camshaft edges using a similar diameter socket during cover placement. Used hylomar gasket dressing all mating surfaces and new AN cover gasket. More blue locktite on cover bolts. Opened my antiwetsump valve and got oil coming out the head feed port when turning engine by hand, so pump is priming and pushing oil out.

Next step is to setup Wassell EI stator and rotor and static timing.
 
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