Caliper Plug

steveyacht · Jun 3, 2011

I am just about tired of the Caliper plug on my 750. Always has a tinge of rust on it and is just plug ugly. Has anyone purchased and installed the Stainless steel plug that is being offered by afew suppliers? Without a special tool, how does one remove the old one? It appears to be a pretty straight forward, unscrew the old and screw in the new. Knowing my luck, It can't be all that easy!

Think I may invest in a couple more stainless items: Chain tensioner bolts, rear brake adjuster, brake caliper plug, as well as a few other odds and ends. May be worth it in the long haul. :?:

Hobot · Jun 3, 2011

Yes sir, do it and never look back at impossible to stay fresh items in plain view.
Those who inherit your bike will thank you too and who knows there may not be SS items made by then.

Flo · Jun 4, 2011

There is a proper tool with pegs on to remove these, but they are not easy to find.
A couple of drills will do, find a couple where the drill shanks fit nicely into the holes. Hold them in there & use a spanner with the open end over one drill shank & lever against the other. Keep the spanner up against the plug.
Don't forget, there is a seal in the plug.

pete.v · Jun 4, 2011

I have heard bad stories about stainless caliper plugs being machined too big. Validate your purchase.

gtsun · Jun 4, 2011

You can make the tool. I tool a large A-325 bolt and cut the shank off. Machined the top flush, drilled two holes for the pins and used drill blanks for the pins. Pressed them in and now have a tool that I can put a wrench on. I was going to do something much simpler but a friend who let's me use his shop got me a little carried away with making it like this.

Tim_S · Jun 5, 2011

Make a tool.......... measure the two plug holes center to center and transfer that measurement to a long piece of flat stock quarter inch thick steel or something similar you have laying around the shop. Drill the two holes needed in the steel then take two dowel pins that fit in the plug holes or two drill bits the same hole size and insert them in the tool steel and you have your caliper tool. Hold caliper in a vise and remove plug with your new tool.............

Tim_S

rx7171 · Jun 5, 2011

steveyacht said:
I am just about tired of the Caliper plug on my 750. Always has a tinge of rust on it and is just plug ugly. Has anyone purchased and installed the Stainless steel plug that is being offered by afew suppliers? Without a special tool, how does one remove the old one? It appears to be a pretty straight forward, unscrew the old and screw in the new. Knowing my luck, It can't be all that easy!

Think I may invest in a couple more stainless items: Chain tensioner bolts, rear brake adjuster, brake caliper plug, as well as a few other odds and ends. May be worth it in the long haul. :?:

OldBritts has the special tool for caliper plug but pricey

>>Peg Spanner Tool
The current price this tool (part # 06-3965) is $82.37, as of 06/01/11.
This tool removes and refits wheel bearing lockrings; also the end plug from the disc brake caliper. Use the large round end with square-faced pegs for removal of the rear wheel bearing lockring. (This ring has a left: hand thread). <<

Hobot · Jun 5, 2011

Some of these cap are about fused to the threads, so even with best tools, ie: those capable of distorting the holes rather than pins bend or break, cap may need scary high heat,then let that spread out to the alloy then dry ice on the cap, then with serious caliper mounting, heave ho and hope for the best. Air impact on the nut based tool sure sounds like best way to deal with a tough one.

Why aren't cap-plugs made of aluminum?

steveyacht · Jun 6, 2011

Wondering if one of those Peg Spanners that come with or used on a grinder will work? If not the double drill bit idea seems easy enough. Hate to spend a bunch of money on a tool I may only use once. Me thinks I will go with the entire SS rebuild of the caliper, along with a SS brake hose, have the rotor/disc Blanchard grounnd (somewhere), drilled and put in a nice fresh set of AP Brake pads. That should give me the look I want as well as better performance.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions!

pete.v · Jun 6, 2011

I took a bar of steel 12"x1"x1/2". Measure the holes in the cap and locate "on centers". Drill the holes in the bar "square" then drive 1/4" dowels in and through so that the bar will be flush with the cap for ultimate leverage. Should cost you less then a fin. Confirm the dowel size, I am not at home to check right now.
Best cap removal tip is to leave the caliper installed on the bike. A little heat from propane will not hirt, have the bleeder loose and brake the line off.

Edit, Yes it is a 1/4" dowel.

flcmbt · Mar 18, 2012

Great Info here. I was getting worried I'd have to spend $80 to get that off.

powerdoc · Mar 18, 2012

Got my tool from Steadfast, it's a large hex head with 2 protrusions; less than $40 US as I recall; I think from Ebay

marinecommando · Mar 18, 2012

I made one using an adjustable spanner.. Find 2xbolts of the right size, drill and tap the jaws of the adjustable, screw in the bolts and cut so the spanner fits flush with the calliper plug and hey presto an adjustable wrench. If you file the ends of the bolts it even works for the rear wheel bearing retaining ring. Job done....

swooshdave · Mar 18, 2012

brake-caliper-teardown-yes-with-pictures-t5458.html

SGOUD2 · Mar 19, 2012

I have Inox calliper plug and bleeder and I really love it. Always clean, nerver rusts. While you're at it, you could also install Inox pistons.

I got a tool for less than 20$ some years ago : Armstrong 34-151 2-inch size. Works very well.

Hobot · Mar 19, 2012

I use the real Norton tool for cap removal. On really corroded as one cap to caliper tightness the steel dimple become plastically deformed elongated. I'm sure there have been as bad ones as pre-Ms Peel but ain't yet heard stories of tearing the vise bolts out its mounts or fracturing knee on body drop torque on breaker bar on peg tool after heated to smoking then dry ice applied to cap face, ugh. I won but took a week to recover walking well.

Stolen off Old Brits site

B+Bogus · Mar 19, 2012

I also used 2 drill bits, but mounted them in the vice with just enough protruding for maximum rigidity
I had the advantage of having the forks off the bike at the time and I could really swing on the caliper to get the plug out.
New one from RGM went in just fine, and really looks the business.
It now looks great on the shelf where its been since I upgraded to a Lockheed Racing caliper

Caliper Plug

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