Bolt up rear hub

On the early bolt up rear hub the three studs on the sprocket/drum have a boss at the base that locates in the alloy hub. The holes in the hub are 11/16" but only one of the boss's is 11/16" the other two are 5/8" so do nothing to take up the drive. The taper of the sleeve nuts will pull things into place to a certain extent. I'm thinking about turning up two collars to take up the drive on all three bolts rather than just one. Any thoughts on this?

Dunno, my tapered long bolts/nuts (what ever they are, Nolts?) fit in the wheel and pull up tight just fine. Maybe yours have been abused? It's not hard to do if they come loose.

gripper said:

On the early bolt up rear hub the three studs on the sprocket/drum have a boss at the base that locates in the alloy hub. The holes in the hub are 11/16" but only one of the boss's is 11/16" the other two are 5/8" so do nothing to take up the drive. The taper of the sleeve nuts will pull things into place to a certain extent. I'm thinking about turning up two collars to take up the drive on all three bolts rather than just one. Any thoughts on this?

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Any progress on this Gripper? I just got my rear brake assembly and drum/sprocket back from Vintage Brake and I also replaced the rear wheel bearings. With everything back together, I still have a slight drag in one location when I spin the wheel. As the brake and drum have just been done and the bearings are fine, I'm pretty confident that the rear hub and brake assembly are true. Therefore the drag must be be caused by the drum not sitting up against the rear hub properly, and is a bit cocked, right? I can't think of anything else it could be. It's definitely in the rear end as the drag is always in the same location as the wheel is spun.

Anyone else ever experience this and have a solution? :?


David B

Maybe you can try re-clocking the brake drum to the wheel hub. That is, mark both, then rotate the brake drum one peg, and repeat, to see if there is a happier pairing of the two parts at a different clocking. Also, I assume that you are centering the drum on the backing plate by pressing on the brake lever whenever you are tightening the wheel studs and the axle. I have same three stud hub and find that that helps, although the rear brake has always been and remains nearly useless.

That's a good idea, I hadn't thought of rotating the drum into different mounts. I'll give it a try. Yep, I'm pressing down on the brake pedal firmly while tightening everything down. I'm anxious to find out how good the brake is having been given the full treatment by Mike at Vintage Brake.

Thanks!

Without the bearing fitted to the later cush drive brake drum/sprocket the drum could easily run out of true. I have not gone any further with the extra two collars to centralise the two undersize stud bosses.. Certainly worth moving the drum round one stud at a time to minimise the run out. You really need a dial test indicator to see what is going on though.
In a discussion at the NOC AGM yesterday the rod operated Dominator rear brake was said to be a better brake, I believe that apart from the rod/cable, they are more of less the same brake.
I fitted a 2LS hydraulic rear brake from a Mini about 35 years ago. It's good but took some fettling.

Yeah, my rear always has a drag spot on it. Never tried to rotate it on the hub. But I can certainly lock up the rear brake with the brake pedal, that's no problem. It used to be the only brake I used since the front TLS was always not there, but it's all lots better now thanks to this forum.