Best Technique...

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Lineslinger

Lineslinger

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Following up on the Kicker post, what is your favored technique for kick starting.

And yes I did do a search but I am lazy and its a lot easier to ask than to read through all those posts from the past, so thanks in advance.
 
I treat it like a big single, slowly kick until I get to compression, full weight on lever as the compression escapes until it reaches TDC and then stop and allow kicker back up and then take a full kick to start.
 
As above. No gas until it fires. If it doesn’t fire in 3-4 kicks chances are it’s flooded. Open throttle fully 1-2 more kicks it should fire. Don’t wimp out on kicking it. If a Commando senses weakness it will bite you.
 
When I first got bike two yrs ago, having never kicked before, I found myself shooting vertically upwards when trying to kick engine over. WornTorn heard my plight and kindly turned up one day and got my technique sorted. Slowly kick to compression point, let kicker back up to rest position, then kick hard with a definite follow through. Usually I have throttle open a little and she roars to life in one or two goes. If more, somethings not right, such as flooded, needs tickle, switch is off etc.
 
Years ago, I was talking about this with John Baker (experimental engine builder, Norton at Marston Road) and Martin Russell (ditto, BSA at Slumberglade and Kitts Green) and they both agreed. Set your carbs so that the mixture is right for starting with the throttle closed, then ease the engine over compression and kick through. (Also works this way for racing push starts.) Martin's thought was that the closed throttle makes for a partial vacuum in the working cylinder with the result that the piston's compression stroke has "less air to compress, allowing the engine to spin over quicker". I'm not sure that this really has anything to do with it but I tried it and loved it so much that it's the technique I've used for over 45 years. Works on my high-compression 850 that John Baker built for my Commando, so it should be good for anything.
 
With most bikes, when the motor is cold if you apply the chokes - all you need to do is flick the motor over compression with the throttle closed. When I kick start a bike, I usually stand on the lever until the piston is well up the compression stroke, then a quick push usually does the trick But if you take a big bite, the kick-back can hurt you.
 
When I push-start a bike in a race, I always make sure 1st gear is engaged and pull the motor back onto compression before pushing, that way the flywheel inertia helps you. I am right-handed, so I always push from the left side of the bike, and pop my bum onto the seat sideways as it starts, put my left foot onto the footrest then step over and hit the next gear as I sit. - full throttle. Nobody ever beat me in a clutch start, unless they pressed the button.

I am the guy furthest from the camera:

https://ibb.co/fng3xxC
 
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1st gear? I always bump started in 3rd! Admittedly, for racing you'd want to be in a low gear for quick acceleration but on the street every time I tried to bump start in 1st (and often in second), the rear tire would just skid when I dumped the clutch.
 
Does anyone remember the picture of that small woman giving the HD the what for completely off the ground off to the side? Couldn't fault her for technique. I'm sure she started it. I could never do the side start, I always had to get over the seat and in the air.
 
MexicoMike said:
1st gear? I always bump started in 3rd! Admittedly, for racing you'd want to be in a low gear for quick acceleration but on the street every time I tried to bump start in 1st (and often in second), the rear tire would just skid when I dumped the clutch.
Click to expand...

Which is why race bikes used to have such tall first gears...
 
On my Commando it’s tickle the carbs, push it up to compression ease the lever back up and then a good kick with the throttle closed, if it doesn’t start first kick it needs choke - repast the above with added choke and off we go. On my Bonnie I just tickle it then kick it from wherever it is and it sparks into life.

Dave
 
Just a heads-up. Engage (take up all the slack) the k/s mechanism before jumping on the pedal. If you fail to do this you will break the k/s pawl and likely freeze the g/b. You may get away with this a few times, but it will break when you least expect it. Probably in the middle or no where...

Best
 
On a cold engine or one I haven't rode for a while, Main petcock on, choke on, I tickle the Amals, Kick it through once without the ignition on. Bring back up to compression, turn on ignition then repeat the kick through and it starts right up with no issues. Works for me.
Cheers,
 
If you're running an old boyer be sure to have a fully charged battery or your ankle may be sorry.
 
Maybe since we all have our bikes set up different , carbs , ignition , compression, etc. the best technique for each is going to vary no doubt , plus we all got our own way of doing things .... I can almost always get bike started on first real kick .. turn on fuel , flip choke on , 2 easy kicks , turn ignition on , flip choke off and 1 kick start .. after this initial start , rest of day is turn fuel and ignition on and 1 kick start always ...
 
The best approach to kick starting a Commando begins with attitude. Let your ride know that you are in command, that it WILL start, like it or not. You can run a guilt trip on it by simply reminding it that you have lavished it with maintenance, fresh parts and attention. You can even play the injury card and show this beast your cuts, scratches and sore muscles. Let your Norton know you want a good ride and that E-bay is a short trip down the internet!

After all that technique is almost irrelevant. Years ago I took my Norton for a beer run, I left the store and got on my Commando and exuded attitude; I turned the key and it just started, no kicking on my part....

Best
 
Never understood the “push it past TDC” method. I want it brought up onto compression, then reset the ratchet pawl - which allows a moment for pressure to dissipate - and then come down hard on those last few degrees of compression. This allows for a much higher cranking speed, and more crank inertia. Same goes for big singles.
 
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