Ball hone size for Commando cylinders

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Anyone have a suggestion what grit-number ball hone to use on Commando cylinders? I see BMWs of like vintage recommending 320, and thought I had run across a Norton-specific discussion that indicated to use 180. Both apocryphal at this point. Any input appreciated, as always. Thanks - BrianK
 
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I wouldn't hesitate using a 180 grit. I don't believe the 320 would do anything it would load up so quick. A friend of mine is a machinest and he told me that the dingle ball hone is the only thing he will put in a cylinder anymore.
 
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I'm looking at a 3.25" dingle ball in 240 grit. Too bad they cost $35-45 or more for something I'll probably only use once. Anybody want to buy one from me after I'm done or does anyone have one they want to sell. I'm not married to 240 grit but from what I've read that would appear to meet my needs for a glaze removal and cross-hatching prior to installing a new set of standard size rings. Comments??
 

Flo

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Wouldn't & never have bothered. Nothing wrong with using emery on the end of your hand. Always have & always will.
 

ML

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Diamondjet, do you really need to do it? Theres a whole bunch of new science that suggests de-glazing is an unneccesary action that merely increases bore wear to achieve the run in glaze that it eventually acquires. If its within STD limits, and depending on the types of STD new rings you have or can obtain, it may not be neccesary or beneficial to de-glaze. What I have read indicates that if you must de-glaze, do as little as possible and preferabbly on a proper honing machine not the hand held drill in a bucket of kerosine! There's a thread in this forum on the topic, try a search and see what you can find.

Mick
 
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Thanks for the input. I'll look into it further. First thing on the list is an end gap measurement to see if new rings are in order. I had just presumed that at this point it was a 'given' to go with new rings and a cylinder hone. Obviously more to come. Thanks! :p
 
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