Anyone ever seen this?

Hi guys, Has anyone seen this white/creamy crap before?








Thanks,
Dave

This is from going for short trip and not getting the oil hot. It take a goo 1/2 hour drive. Otherwise moisture will go unchacked and emulsify into this crap.

Easy solution, quit pussy footing around and ride it.

I don't ride short trips that much, once and a while on a saturday I do some around the city driving but I am mostly on the freeway / backroads 80km/h for more then an hour.

OH My yes I have, when mower broke a belt and got left at a angle that rained into exhaust and water entered the head chamber then via an open valve the crank case, but I didn't know it till got belt on and got it going then soon after checked the oil to see your type and color. Drained and half refilled and ran a bit then flushed and topped off and ran until moisture cooked out and put a tin can shield over exhaust pipe and also side a beer can over end too as can blow so strong it still whips it in. Only way I can conceive that much water got into a C-do's system is sabotage or too much cold running time vs full heated. Well maybe plugs left out in the rain.

BTw it does not lube nor protect from oxidation in that state so toss it.

Seems strange. But you guys must know what your talking about. I park inside all the time and bike only gets wet when It rains on the ride home....Guess I just need to ride longer and harder :lol:
Thanks guys!

Dave

Do you run an oil cooler?

The reed valve is passing air from the crankcase. The air that gets in the crankcase is blowby which is exhaust gas and has a high water content.
Mount the valve as close to the crankcase as possible so the valve gets warm. This will help keep the water from condensing out of the exhaust gas when it hits a cold valve and hose. It helps if the valve is right behind the cylinders so the air from the cylinders helps keep it warm. Jim

Cold wet climate. Add some condensation, inside the half full Oil tank. ?
Just a thought.
Is there a moisture removing additive. ??
Just another thought.

AussieCombat said:

Is there a moisture removing additive. ??

Click to expand...

Move south :wink:

Jean

Actually it is not affected by the moisture in the air. The moisture is a product of the chemical reaction called combustion. Of course cool air means the inline valve will be cooler and will condense more moisture from the exhaust gas.

I have had the same problem here in the desert with metal inline valves. Jim

Where do you have the valve located?

Oh yes. I think I first saw it in a movie with Cameron Diaz & the quarterback from Green Bay. Then I noticed it coming from my TR6C.

AussieCombat said:

Cold wet climate. Add some condensation, inside the half full Oil tank. ?
Just a thought.
Is there a moisture removing additive. ??
Just another thought.

Click to expand...

Yes there is a moisture "blending with water " I would guess the emusifiing resistance vari's from brand to brand.

maybe someone swapped ya engine for a cappuccino maker when ya wernt looking, have you tasted it yet?

I did scoop it off but didn't taste it, if it tastes like it smells no point. I am in the Fraser valley (Canada, BC) a wet climate is an understatement. Oil tank is full up. I do run 15/40 diesel oil. I know there are fancy brands out there which help. One time I put in GTX and the guy behind me told me It had the same smell as his wife's cooking......

My valve is about 10 inches away from the oil tank; I had seen more guys put it in that location. Didn't know if orientation was a concern.

I was just on a trip to Cali, nice hot weather (mostly north Cali)

No Oil Cooler here, No need as the Temp hardly gets above 70 F :lol:

DaveK said:

No Oil Cooler here, No need as the Temp hardly gets above 70 F :lol:

Click to expand...

Hence the problem.

I might bypass or remove the valve for now. Your late motor is not as susceptible to excess crank pressure as the earlier ones. And beside, pushing that crap through the valve in causing way more crankcase pressure than that valve will ever relieve thereby trapping moisture within the crankcase and exacerbating what is determined as an environmental issue. Cold and wet.

Some people are just gogo gaga over these valves. I grant you, they do have a places and perhaps should be applied if a problem exists. Did you have a problem or did you put one on because "SD" said it was cool? But again, as far as your unit is concern, I think it is doing more harm than good. Try running without it. What do you have to lose. If it doesn't work out, put it back on.

What you are seeing is probably what's going on with other peoples motors but they don't see it because they vent to the tank. Your vent vapors, oil and water, never get mixed and heated in the lube system. Normally that water would get vaporized and drawn off into the aircleaner from the oiltank vent. I live in Northern California, some nice riding. I'm heading to BC after Labor Day when the herds thin out. Even better riding in BC.

I'll run without the valve, I don't really have any problems that I know of without it, just thought it seemed like a good idea I'll have to keep an eye on the points cover as it leaks a bit, replaced the seal about a million times still leaks, It is one of the many reasons I don't go electronic ign. Getting tired of fooling around with the points and timing and my plate is all worn out and stripped threads and such so I might pickup boyer sometime...I know there are a lots of brands. Old britts sells that new one but kits like 350$....alot of money for my old bike :lol:

I am venting straight to the oil tank and then the breather from the oil tank to the tail light. No oil collection jar for me :twisted:

Ya it's really nice riding out here...smooth roads not like the ones down there......

Here is how water gets into the crankcase. It is not from the humidity in the air. The chemical reaction known as combustion produces approximately one gallon of water for every gallon of fuel burned- a little more if the intake air is wet- a little less if the air is dry.
Exhaust gas is hyper-saturated with water. That is no problem as long as the gas stays hot as it can hold that much water. When it cools then the excess water condenses out of the gas and becomes liquid again.

The "air" in a Norton crankcase is mostly exhaust gas that has leaked by the piston rings. There is no other place for air to get into the crankcase. It is hyper-saturated with H2O. That is not a problem if the cases and oil are hot enough that the gasses don't cool and give up their excess water.

There will always be some water that condenses in the crankcase when the engine is started and before the oil is warm enough to stop condensing the water from the "air" Hopefully during use the engine oil temp will get higher than the boiling point of water and it will re-vaporize and pass out of the breather.

Any time the exhaust gasses are cooled they will give up water at that point, whether it is in the crankcase, a hose, a valve or the oil tank. The oil tank and crankcase is heated by the engine oil , the hose is rubber and because it is a poor heat conductor it only cools the gas a little so condensation is limited [but present]. A cold metal valve in the hose will condense a lot of water from the gas and that is why I said to mount the valve close to the motor. You want it to get warm. Jim